Master the Art of Sewing with Jersey Knit: A Step-by-Step Guide

AvatarByJill Nammar Sewing

Do you love the soft and stretchy feel of jersey knit fabric? Are you interested in adding this versatile material to your sewing repertoire? Sewing with jersey knit can open up a whole new world of possibilities, from comfortable and stylish clothing to cozy home decor. But for many, the thought of working with this type of fabric may seem daunting. Don’t worry, we’re here to help! In this article, we will cover the basics of how to sew with jersey knit, giving you the confidence and know-how to tackle any project. Get ready to discover the joys of sewing with this wonderfully versatile fabric!

Understanding Jersey Knit Fabric

Jersey knit fabric is a popular choice for clothing, as it offers a comfortable and versatile material that can be used in a variety of projects. However, many people are intimidated by sewing with jersey knit due to its unique properties. In this section, we will discuss what jersey knit fabric is, its characteristics, and how to work with it.

Jersey knit is a type of knitted fabric that was first developed in the Channel Island of Jersey. It is made from one set of yarns that are knitted together to create a single-layered material. This results in a fabric that has excellent drape and stretch, making it ideal for clothing that requires comfort and movement.

One of the key characteristics of jersey knit is its soft, lightweight feel. It is often compared to your favorite t-shirt due to its softness against the skin. The fabric also has a natural curl to its edges, which can make it challenging to sew with. However, this can be managed with proper techniques and tools.

Another important feature of jersey knit is its excellent elasticity. The fabric can stretch up to 25% without losing its shape, making it an ideal choice for form-fitting garments or items that require flexibility such as leggings or activewear.

When working with jersey knit fabric, there are two main types: single and double-knit. Single-knit jersey is thinner and more lightweight, while double-knit jersey has two layers which makes it more stable and less prone to curling at the edges.

Sewing Machine Settings for Jersey Knit

To successfully sew with jersey knit fabric, you must first adjust your sewing machine settings appropriately. Here are some tips on how to set up your machine for sewing with jersey knit:

1) Use a ballpoint needle: Jersey knits have a certain amount of stretch which makes them more prone to snagging on regular sewing needles. Using a ballpoint needle will help prevent skipped stitches and ensure that the fabric is not damaged during sewing.

2) Adjust the tension: The tension setting controls how tight or loose your stitches will be. For jersey knit, you want to lower your tension slightly to account for the fabric’s stretchiness. Test on scraps of fabric first to achieve the perfect tension.

3) Use a stretch stitch: Many modern sewing machines come with a stretch stitch option, which is perfect for working with jersey knit fabrics. This type of stitch allows your seams to stretch without breaking and creates a professional finish.

4) Use a walking foot: A walking foot is ideal for sewing with jersey knit as it helps feed the fabric through evenly, reducing any potential puckering or stretching.

Cutting Jersey Knit Fabric

Tip: Prewashing your jersey knit fabric before cutting is highly recommended, as it may shrink during washing.

When cutting jersey knit fabric, there are a few things to keep in mind to achieve clean and accurate cuts:

1) Lay out your fabric evenly: Place your jersey knit on a flat surface, making sure there are no wrinkles or folds. Since the material is sometimes unpredictable, it’s best to place pattern weights or pins along the edges of the fabric before cutting.

2) Use sharp scissors or rotary cutter: To avoid jagged edges and messy cuts, ensure that you are using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter specifically designed for cutting knits. Dull tools can cause the fabric to jam and lead to uneven cuts.

3) Cut in one direction: Unlike woven fabrics where you can cut in any direction, jersey knit should always be cut parallel to the selvage (the finished edges of the fabric). This ensures that your garment will have maximum stretch in the right direction.

4) Consider nap direction: If you’re working with a patterned jersey knit, pay attention to the nap direction. The texture or design of the fabric may look different when cut in different directions, so it’s best to cut all your pieces in the same direction for a consistent look.

Techniques for Sewing With Jersey Knit

Now that you have your machine settings and fabric cutting down, it’s time to start sewing with jersey knit. Here are some techniques to keep in mind to achieve professional-looking results:

1) Use a stretch stitch or zigzag stitch: As mentioned earlier, using a stretch stitch or zigzag stitch is crucial when sewing with jersey knit. These stitches allow for movement and prevent breakage while creating strong seams.

2) Start and end your stitches properly: To avoid knots and tangles, backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam. Alternatively, you can also use a lockstitch feature if your machine has one.

3) Avoid stretching fabric while sewing: Be mindful not to pull or stretch the fabric as you sew as this can result in uneven seams and puckering.

4) Use clear elastic: If the pattern calls for stabilizing seams with clear elastic, make sure to use it. This will help prevent sagging and keep seams from stretching

Understanding Jersey Knit Fabric

Jersey knit, also known as jersey fabric or simply jersey, is a type of knit fabric that is commonly used for making clothing items. It is a lightweight, stretchy, and comfortable fabric that drapes beautifully on the body. Jersey knit has a unique texture and appearance that sets it apart from other types of fabrics.

Jersey knit fabric is made using a single-knit construction method, which means that only one set of yarns is used to create the fabric. The yarns are knitted together in a series of loops, giving jersey its iconic stretchiness. It is usually made from cotton or a blend of cotton and synthetic fibers such as polyester or rayon.

One distinguishing feature of jersey knit fabric is its ribs or wales. Ribs are the raised lines running parallel to the selvage (the finished edges of the fabric), while wales are the lines running perpendicular to the selvage. The number of ribs per inch can vary, with finer jerseys having more ribs per inch than coarser ones.

Choosing the Right Needle and Thread

When it comes to sewing with jersey knit, using the right needle and thread is crucial for achieving professional-looking results. Since jersey knit is a stretchy fabric, it requires special needles and threads to prevent damage while sewing.

The best needle for sewing with jersey knit fabric is a ballpoint needle. Unlike sharp needles typically used for woven fabrics, ballpoint needles have rounded tips that glide between knitted loops instead of piercing through them. This prevents snags and runs in the fabric while stitching.

As for thread, opt for polyester or polyester blend threads specifically designed for knits. These threads have more stretch than all-purpose threads and won’t break under tension when working with jersey knit.

Cutting and Preparing Jersey Knit Fabric

Before you start sewing with jersey knit fabric, it is crucial to first prepare and cut your fabric properly. Jersey knit can be tricky to work with, so taking the time to prepare your fabric correctly will save you a lot of frustration and wasted material.

Start by washing and drying your fabric to pre-shrink it. This step is essential as jersey knit tends to shrink, especially if it has a high percentage of cotton. Once dry, lay out your fabric on a flat surface. Make sure all the wrinkles are smoothed out, and the grain of the fabric is parallel to the selvage.

When cutting jersey knit, avoid pulling or stretching the fabric. This can result in uneven edges and skew your garment’s fit. Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter for clean cuts, and make sure to use pattern weights instead of pins to keep your pattern in place.

Mastering Sewing Techniques for Jersey Knit

Sewing with jersey knit requires a different set of skills compared to working with woven fabrics. To achieve professional-looking results, here are some essential sewing techniques you need to master:

– Stabilizing: Jersey knit has a natural tendency to stretch out while being sewn or worn. To prevent this, you need to stabilize certain areas of your garment using interfacing or stay tapes.
– Seam finishing: Instead of using traditional seam finishes like serging or zigzag stitching, consider using an overlock stitch or a twin needle stretch stitch for added stretchiness and durability.
– Hemming: When hemming jersey knit garments, it is essential to use techniques that allow for stretch so that the hem doesn’t rip when stretched over the body. These include blind hems, twin needle hems, and lettuce edge hems.
– Sewing curves: Sewing curved seams on jersey knit can be tricky due to its natural stretchiness. To avoid puckering or stretching out the seam allowance, use pins or basting stitches to hold the fabric in place before stitching.

Fits, Styles, and Projects for Jersey Knit

One of the best things about sewing with jersey knit is that it is incredibly versatile. It can be used to make a wide variety of clothing items, from basic t-shirts and skirts to more complex garments like dresses and activewear. Here are some popular styles and projects for jersey knit fabric:

– Basic t-shirt: A simple t-shirt made from jersey knit is a wardrobe staple. It is comfortable, easy to wear, and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.
– Maxi dress: Due to its drapey nature, jersey knit fabric is perfect for creating flowy maxi dresses that are both stylish and comfortable.
– Activewear: Jersey knit with added spandex (usually referred to as spandex or lycra jersey) is commonly used for making sports tops, leggings, and other activewear items due to its excellent stretch and moisture-wicking properties.
– Baby clothes: Jersey knit is a popular choice for making baby clothes as it is soft against the skin and easy to care for.
– Lounge pants: Jersey knit lounge pants are perfect for lounging around the house or running errands. They are

Q: What is jersey knit fabric?
A: Jersey knit fabric is a type of knit fabric that is lightweight, stretchy, and breathable. It is commonly used for making clothing items such as t-shirts, dresses, and tops.

Q: What is the best type of needle to use when sewing with jersey knit?
A: The best type of needle to use when sewing with jersey knit is a ballpoint or stretch needle. These types of needles have rounded tips which help prevent snagging or pulling on the delicate fibers of the fabric.

Q: Do I need to use a special stitch when sewing with jersey knit?
A: Yes, it is recommended to use a stretch stitch or a narrow and elongated zigzag stitch when sewing with jersey knit. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread.

Q: How do I prevent puckering when sewing with jersey knit?
A: Puckering can be prevented by using the correct tension on your sewing machine. Make sure to test the tension on a scrap piece of fabric before starting your project. Additionally, using tissue paper under the fabric while sewing can help stabilize it and prevent puckering.

Q: Can I iron jersey knit fabric?
A: Yes, you can iron jersey knit fabric but it is important to use low heat and steam in order to avoid damaging or stretching out the fabric. It is also recommended to use a pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric.

Q: How do I finish raw edges when working with jersey knit?
A: The best way to finish raw edges on jersey knit is by using a serger or an overlock stitch on your sewing machine. If you do not have access to those options, using pinking shears or folding over and hemming the raw edge can also work well.

In conclusion, sewing with jersey knit can be a rewarding and fulfilling experience once you have the right tools and techniques in place. It is important to understand the unique qualities of this fabric and how to properly handle and manipulate it to achieve desired results. From selecting the right needle and stitch type to using appropriate tension and seam finishes, every step in the process plays a crucial role in creating a successful jersey knit project. Furthermore, practicing patience and taking your time to master these techniques will ultimately lead to better outcomes.

It is also worth noting that jersey knit has become increasingly popular for its comfort, versatility, and ease of care. By learning how to sew with this fabric, you open yourself up to a wide range of possibilities for creating comfortable yet stylish garments for every occasion. Whether it be a basic t-shirt or a more complex dress or jacket, jersey knit can be used for various types of projects, making it a valuable skill for any sewing enthusiast.

Moreover, through the various tips and tricks discussed in this guide, we can see that sewing with jersey knit does not have to be intimidating or challenging. With practice and persistence, you can overcome any challenges that may arise and produce high-quality garments that look professionally made. Remember to always start with small projects and gradually work your way up

Author Profile

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Jill Nammar
My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.