Sew Your Way to Vintage Charm: A Step-by-Step Guide to Creating a Bustle Skirt

Have you ever admired the elegance and sophistication of a bustle skirt, but hesitated to purchase one due to its steep price tag? Well, fear not! Learning how to sew your own bustle skirt is not only cost-effective, but also allows for personalization and creativity. In this article, we will guide you through the steps of creating a stunning bustle skirt that will make heads turn. So bring out your sewing machine and let’s dive into the world of DIY fashion with our guide on how to sew a bustle skirt.

What Is a Bustle Skirt?

A bustle skirt is a type of skirt that features fabric gathered at the back, creating a voluminous appearance and adding fullness to the silhouette. It is usually worn over a structured undergarment called a bustle, which supports and shapes the back of the skirt.

Bustle skirts rose to popularity in the mid-1800s during the Victorian era, where they were seen as fashionable and elegant. They were especially popular during the 1870s and 1880s, but continued to be worn until the early 1900s.

Today, bustle skirts are still worn by modern fashion enthusiasts for special occasions and historical reenactments. They add a touch of vintage charm and femininity to any outfit.

The History of Bustle Skirts

The development of bustles in fashion can be traced back to France in the late 18th century, where they were initially worn under gowns to create a fuller backside. However, it wasn’t until Queen Victoria’s reign in the 19th century that bustles became popularized in women’s fashion.

During this time, fashion was primarily dictated by societal standards and traditional gender roles. Women were expected to have slim waists, but also full hips and backsides. This resulted in an abundance of petticoats, crinolines, and eventually bustles being added to achieve the desired silhouette.

As women’s clothing became more elaborate with layers upon layers of fabric, it was common for them to require assistance from maids or family members to get dressed properly. However, when bustles came into style, women no longer needed help as much since they could easily attach a bustle underneath their gown for added volume.

The size and shape of bustles changed throughout their popularity. In the 1870s, they were typically smaller and placed lower on the back, while in the 1880s, they became larger and more exaggerated. By the 1890s, bustles were out of fashion and replaced by other trends.

Types of Bustle Skirts

Bustle skirts come in various styles and shapes, depending on the time period they were popularized in. Some of the most common types include:

– The derby bustle: Also known as a crinolette, this type of bustle was popular during the 1860s and resembled a flat pad worn around the hips.

– The apron bustle: This style emerged in the late 1870s and featured fabric gathered at the back to create a padded appearance. It was often worn with a long train for extra drama.

– The waterfall bustle: Introduced in the 1880s, this bustle was shaped like a cascading waterfall with layers of fabric falling from the waistline.

– The umbrella bustle: This type of bustle was similar to an umbrella cone shape and was popular during the early 1890s.

Today, modern versions of these types of bustles can be found in vintage-inspired clothing or custom-made for special occasions.

How to Sew a Bustle Skirt

Sewing your own bustle skirt at home can seem like a daunting task, but with some basic sewing skills and patience, it is achievable. Here are some steps to get you started:

Step 1: Gather Your Materials

To sew your own bustle skirt, you will need fabric (preferably cotton), thread, scissors, pins, a measuring tape or ruler, an iron, and a sewing machine. You may also need trimmings such as lace or ribbon if desired.

Step 2: Take Measurements

Measure your natural waist and add a few inches for seam allowance. This will be the top part of your skirt. Next, measure from your waist to where you want the skirt to end and add 2-3 inches for hem allowance. This will be the length of your skirt. Finally, measure around the fullest part of your hips and add a few inches for ease.

Step 3: Cut Your Fabric

Using your measurements, cut two rectangular pieces of fabric for the front and back of your skirt. The length should be your desired length plus seam and hem allowance, while the width should be half of your hip measurement plus seam allowance.

Step 4: Sew the Front Panel

Fold one of the rectangles in half (right sides facing) and sew along the shorter edges to create a tube shape. Leave an opening at the top for the waistband.

Step 5: Sew the Back Panel

Repeat step 4 with the other rectangle, but this time leave an opening on both sides to create a slit for inserting a bustle or petticoat.

Step 6: Attach Waistband

Cut a strip of fabric that is about double the circumference of your waist plus a few inches for overlap

What is a Bustle Skirt?

A bustle skirt is a type of skirt that features extra fabric at the back, creating a puffed-out appearance. This style originated in the late 19th century and was popularized during the Victorian era. It was often worn as part of the everyday attire of wealthy women, as well as for formal occasions. The bustle, or puffed-out fabric, could be created using padding, fabrics such as tulle or crinoline, or by using a metal framework underneath the skirt. Over time, the popularity of bustle skirts waned, but they have recently made a comeback in modern fashion and can be seen on runways and in street fashion.

Why Sew Your Own Bustle Skirt?

Sewing your own bustle skirt allows you to create a unique and personalized piece of clothing that fits you perfectly. Ready-made bustle skirts can be expensive and may not fit your body type or personal style. By sewing your own, you can choose the fabric, color, and design to suit your taste and preferences. Additionally, sewing is a fun and creative hobby that allows you to express yourself through fashion.

What You Will Need

To sew a bustle skirt, you will need some basic sewing supplies including fabric (amount depends on the desired fullness of the skirt), sewing machine or needle and thread, scissors, pins or clips, measuring tape or ruler, and an iron. You may also need additional materials such as boning if you choose to create a structured frame for your bustle.

Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing a Bustle Skirt

Choose your fabric: Select a soft yet sturdy fabric such as cotton or linen for best results. Avoid fabrics that are too stiff or heavy.
Take measurements: Measure your waist and hips to determine the size of your skirt. You will also need to measure the desired length and fullness of your skirt. You can use these measurements to create a paper pattern or draft directly onto the fabric.
Cut out fabric pieces: Using your measurements, cut out the front and back pieces of your skirt. Remember to add extra fabric for seam allowance and for gathering at the back.
Sew the side seams: With right sides together, sew the side seams of the front and back pieces together following a ½ inch seam allowance. Finish off the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or overlock stitch.
Create the waistband: Cut a strip of fabric for the waistband, long enough to fit around your waist with extra length for an opening at the back. Sew it together at one end and attach it to the top edge of your skirt, right sides together. Fold over and press down to create a clean finish.
Add closures: You can use buttons, snaps, or hook-and-eye closures to fasten the waistband opening at the back.
Create the bustle: Depending on how you want your bustle to look, you can either add tulle or crinoline underlayer or create a structured frame using boning. Attach this layer or frame onto the inside top edge of your skirt.
Hemming: Hem the bottom edge of your skirt by folding over ¼ inch and then another ¼ inch and sewing in place.

Customizing Your Bustle Skirt

One of the best things about sewing your own bustle skirt is that you have complete control over its design. You can experiment with different fabrics, colors, lengths, and fullness options to create a one-of-a-kind piece. Additionally, you can add embellishments such as lace, ribbons, or embroidery to make your bustle skirt even more unique.

Maintenance Tips

To keep your bustle skirt in good condition, always follow the fabric care instructions provided by the manufacturer. Most cotton and linen fabrics can be machine washed on a gentle cycle, but it is best to air dry them to avoid shrinking. If your skirt has boning or other structured elements, hand washing is recommended to prevent damage. You can also use a fabric steamer to remove wrinkles from your bustle skirt.

Sewing a bustle skirt may seem intimidating at first, but with the right materials and following the step-by-step guide provided above, you can create a beautiful and unique piece of clothing. Whether you’re looking to make a statement with your fashion or just enjoy sewing as a hobby, creating your own bustle skirt is a fun and rewarding project that allows you to showcase your creativity and personal style. So go ahead and give it a try – you’ll be amazed by the stunning results!

Q: What is a bustle skirt?
A: A bustle skirt is a type of skirt that has extra fabric at the back, creating a fullness or gathered effect.

Q: What materials do I need to sew a bustle skirt?
A: You will need fabric of your choice, thread, scissors, pins, a sewing machine, measuring tape, and a pattern (if desired).

Q: Do I need to have previous sewing experience to make a bustle skirt?
A: It is recommended to have some basic sewing skills before attempting to sew a bustle skirt.

Q: Can I use any type of fabric for a bustle skirt?
A: You can use any lightweight or medium-weight fabric for your bustle skirt. Stiffer fabrics may not drape or gather as well.

Q: How do I create the ruffles for the bustle?
A: To create ruffles, you will need to gather the top edge of the back panel using gathering stitches. Then you can adjust the gathers to your desired fullness and secure them in place before attaching them to the rest of the skirt.

Q: Can I add pockets to my bustle skirt?
A: Yes, you can add pockets by cutting out pocket pieces and sewing them onto the side seams of your front panels before sewing the rest of the skirt together.

In conclusion, sewing a bustle skirt may seem like a daunting task, but with the right materials and techniques, it can be a fun and rewarding project. We have discussed the key steps involved in creating a bustle skirt, from selecting the fabric and pattern to adding the bustle itself. It is important to take your time and pay attention to details to achieve a professional-looking end result.

It is also crucial to keep in mind that sewing is a skill that requires practice and patience. Do not be discouraged if your first attempt does not turn out perfectly; instead, learn from your mistakes and keep trying. With each project, you will gain more experience and improve your skills.

Another important point to remember is to always read and follow instructions carefully. Whether it is for cutting the fabric or sewing the pieces together, following instructions accurately will ensure that your bustle skirt turns out just as you envisioned.

Furthermore, do not be afraid to experiment with different fabrics and designs. Bustle skirts can be made in various lengths and styles, so let your creativity shine through by playing around with different options.

Lastly, remember that sewing is not just about creating a garment; it is about expressing yourself through the clothes you make. Whether you are making a bustle skirt for everyday wear or

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.