Master the Art of Sewing a Crinoline Underskirt: A Step-by-Step Guide

Are you tired of feeling self-conscious when wearing certain outfits due to lack of coverage? Or do you simply love the elegance and classic charm of a crinoline underskirt? Look no further, as we have the perfect solution for you. In this article, we will discuss the timeless art of sewing a crinoline underskirt. Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned seamstress, this guide will provide you with all the necessary tips and techniques to create your very own crinoline underskirt from scratch. So, let’s dive into the world of sewing and learn how to make a beautiful and functional crinoline underskirt that will elevate your fashion game to new heights.

The Importance of a Crinoline Underskirt

A crinoline underskirt, also known as a petticoat, is an essential garment for achieving the full and voluminous look of a ball gown or wedding dress. It is typically worn underneath the outer skirt to add volume and structure to the dress. Crinoline underskirts have been used since the mid-19th century and were popularized during the Victorian era. They are still widely used today in formal and traditional occasions.

There are a few reasons why crinoline underskirts are important for creating a dramatic and elegant look. Firstly, they provide additional support to the weight of the outer skirt, helping it to maintain its shape and prevent it from sagging or flattening out. This is especially important for heavy fabrics such as satin or taffeta. Secondly, crinoline underskirts add fullness to the lower half of the body, creating a flattering hourglass silhouette by accentuating the waist while making hips appear wider and fuller. Finally, they also serve as a barrier between your legs and the outer skirt, preventing sweating or chafing which can be uncomfortable for long periods of wearing.

Choosing the Right Fabric for Your Crinoline Underskirt

When it comes to choosing fabric for your crinoline underskirt, there are a few key factors to consider. The first one is stiffness – you will need a fabric that is stiffer than your outer skirt in order to support its weight effectively. You can choose from various stiff fabrics such as tulle, organza or netting depending on your preferences.

Another important aspect is color – ideally, you would want your underskirt to match the color of your outer skirt as closely as possible. If you can’t find an exact match, opt for a slightly darker shade as it will be less noticeable. You can also choose a fabric with a slight shimmer or sparkle to add some extra dimension to your outfit.

Lastly, think about the overall style and design of your dress. If you have a more traditional and structured dress, stick to classic fabrics such as tulle or organza. For a more contemporary or flowy dress, you can opt for lighter and softer fabrics like chiffon or mesh.

Measuring and Cutting Your Crinoline Underskirt

Before cutting your fabric, take accurate measurements of your waist, hips and desired length of the underskirt. You will need at least double the width of your waist measurement for the gathered waistband, and depending on how full you want the skirt to be, 4-8 times this measurement for the width of the fabric.

Once you have all your measurements, cut out a rectangle from your chosen fabric using these dimensions. Remember to add an extra inch for seam allowance on each side. For a more accurate fit, you can also create a mock-up using lightweight muslin fabric first before cutting into your main fabric.

Constructing Your Crinoline Underskirt

To construct your crinoline underskirt, start by sewing the short edges of the rectangle together to form a tube. Then, hem one long edge by folding over twice and sewing it in place. This will form the bottom edge of your underskirt.

Next, gather the top edge of the tube by running two rows of stitches along it and pulling them tight to create gathers. Adjust them until they fit comfortably around your waist but are still supportive enough for your outer skirt.

To finish off your underskirt, attach any desired embellishments like lace or ribbons on the hemline or waistband. You can also add multiple layers for added volume and fullness by repeating these steps with additional rectangles of fabric and stacking them on top of each other.

Adding Extra Support with Hoops

For a truly dramatic and full look, you can also add hoops to your crinoline underskirt. These are circular or elliptical frames made of wire or plastic that are attached to the bottom edge of the underskirt. They hold the fabric outwards, creating a wide circumference without adding extra weight or bulk.

To attach hoops, sew them onto the bottom hemline of your underskirt, evenly spacing them apart. You can also adjust the size and number of hoops depending on your dress and desired level of fullness. Keep in mind that hoops may not be suitable for all types of formal occasions and can be more challenging to walk in compared to a traditional crinoline underskirt.

A crinoline underskirt is an important garment for achieving an elegant and voluminous look for formal occasions. Make sure to choose a stiff fabric that matches your dress color, take accurate measurements, and construct it carefully based on your preferences. With a well-made crinoline underskirt, you can achieve the perfect silhouette for any ball gown, wedding dress or formal evening attire.

What is a Crinoline Underskirt?

A crinoline underskirt is an essential piece of fabric that is worn under a full skirt or dress to add volume and shape to the bottom half of an outfit. It is usually made with multiple layers of stiff fabric or netting, creating a structured and voluminous silhouette. The word crinoline originates from the French word “crin” which means horsehair, as this material was often used in the past to stiffen these underskirts. Today, crinoline underskirts are typically made with materials such as tulle, organza, or muslin.

The History of Crinoline Underskirts

The use of crinoline underskirts dates back to the 19th century when women’s fashion trends favored full skirts and dresses with exaggerated silhouettes. At this time, women’s clothing was designed to hide any evidence of their natural figure, creating exaggerated waistlines and fullness in the skirt. Initially, crinolines were made with steel hoops or cages that were worn under the skirt to create volume. These hoops were later replaced with multiple layers of stiffened fabric, which created a more lightweight and comfortable underskirt.

In the mid-19th century, crinolines reached the height of their popularity, with women wearing them in various sizes depending on their social status and occasion. These underskirts were also used to give support and structure to heavy fabrics such as satin and velvet that were commonly used for formal dresses at the time. However, crinolines fell out of fashion by the early 1900s when slimmer styles became popular.

Why You Should Sew Your Own Crinoline Underskirt

Sewing your own crinoline underskirt has several benefits compared to buying one ready-made. First and foremost, you have full control over the size, shape, and materials used for your underskirt. This means you can customize it to fit perfectly under your chosen dress or skirt, ensuring maximum comfort and support. Additionally, sewing your own crinoline underskirt allows you to save money since these underskirts can be quite expensive when bought from a store.

Moreover, by making your own crinoline underskirt, you have the opportunity to add personal touches such as lace trims or decorative stitching that will make it unique and one of a kind. This will also give you a sense of satisfaction and accomplishment every time you wear it.

Materials Needed to Sew A Crinoline Underskirt

To sew a crinoline underskirt, you will need the following materials:

– 5-6 yards of stiff netting or tulle
– 2-3 yards of soft tulle or muslin fabric
– Matching thread
– Sewing machine
– Sewing scissors
– Measuring tape
– Fabric chalk or disappearing ink pen
– Straight pins

Step by Step Guide: How To Sew A Crinoline Underskirt

Step 1: Measure Your Waist
Start by measuring your waist accurately using a measuring tape. This measurement will determine the size of your crinoline underskirt.

Step 2: Cut Out the Netting Layers
Lay out your netting fabric on a flat surface and fold it in half lengthwise. Using the waist measurement from step 1, cut out two layers of netting in an oval shape with one side being equal to twice your waist measurement.

Step 3: Cut Out the Muslin Layers
Using a similar method as step 2, cut out two layers of soft tulle or muslin fabric. These layers should be slightly smaller than the netting layers to create a ruffled effect.

Step 4: Sew the Netting and Muslin Layers Together
Place one netting layer on top of a muslin layer, right sides facing each other. Pin them together along the top edge and stitch them together using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Repeat with the remaining layers.

Step 5: Gather the Bottom Edge
Using your sewing machine’s longest stitch setting, sew a basting stitch along the bottom edge of each netting layer. Make sure to leave long tails of thread at both ends.

Step 6: Create the Ruffled Effect
Carefully pull one of the threads from each basting stitch to gather the bottom edge of each layer. Continue until you have enough gather to match the waist circumference measurement from step 1.

Step 7: Sew All Layers Together
Layer all four gathered layers on top of each other, aligning their top edges. Pin them together and sew using a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Step 8: Finish the Waistband
Cut out a strip of soft tulle or muslin measuring twice your waist measurement plus an additional two inches for seam allowance. Fold it in half lengthwise and sew

1) What is a crinoline underskirt and why is it necessary for sewing projects?
A crinoline underskirt is a type of petticoat traditionally made from stiffened fabric, wire, or horsehair. It is used to add volume and structure to dresses and skirts. It is necessary for sewing projects to create a full and flouncy look.

2) What materials are needed to sew a crinoline underskirt?
To sew a crinoline underskirt, you will need stiff tulle or netting fabric, waistband elastic, thread, scissors, measuring tape, and a sewing machine.

3) Is it difficult to sew a crinoline underskirt?
Sewing a crinoline underskirt can be challenging for beginners, but with some practice and patience, it can be achieved. It requires basic sewing skills such as cutting straight lines, sewing straight seams, and gathering fabric.

4) How do I determine the length of my crinoline underskirt?
To measure the length of your crinoline underskirt, put on the shoes that you will wear with the finished garment and measure from your waist down to where you want the skirt to end. Add an extra inch for seam allowance.

5) Can I adjust the fullness of my crinoline underskirt?
Yes, you can adjust the fullness of your crinoline underskirt by altering the width of your tulle or netting layers. More layers will create a fuller skirt while fewer layers will result in a less voluminous look.

6) How do I attach my crinoline underskirt to my dress or skirt?
Once your crinoline is completed, sew it onto the inside waistband of your dress or skirt. You can also make a separate waistband for your crinoline and fasten it to your garment with hooks and eyes or velcro. Make sure to evenly distribute the gathers for a smooth and even look.

In conclusion, learning how to sew a crinoline underskirt is a useful skill to have for anyone who loves to sew or wants to add a unique touch to their wardrobe. Throughout this guide, we have discussed the necessary materials, steps, and tips for creating a crinoline underskirt. By understanding the purpose of this garment and following the step-by-step process outlined above, anyone can successfully make their own crinoline underskirt.

One of the key takeaways from this topic is the importance of choosing the right materials and measurements for your underskirt. Taking the time to carefully select and measure your fabric ensures that you end up with a well-fitted and comfortable garment. Additionally, mastering basic sewing techniques such as gathering and hemming will not only be useful in creating a crinoline underskirt but can also be applied to other sewing projects.

Moreover, by learning how to sew a crinoline underskirt, you gain a deeper appreciation for the history and evolution of fashion. The crinoline skirt has been used since the 19th century to create volume and shape in garments, and it continues to be a popular style today.

Finally, making your own crinoline underskirt allows for creative expression as you can

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.