Mastering the Art of Sewing: How to Perfect the Flat Felled Seam

Sewing is a skill that has been passed down through generations, creating beautiful and functional garments for centuries. And while there are many different techniques and stitches to master, there is one in particular that every seamstress should have in their repertoire: the flat felled seam. This versatile stitching method not only adds strength and durability to your garments, but it also creates a clean and professional finish. If you’re ready to take your sewing game to the next level, then read on as we dive into the steps on how to sew a flat felled seam like a pro. Whether you’re an experienced seamstress or just starting out, this article will guide you through the process with easy-to-follow instructions that will have you creating flawless flat felled seams in no time.

What Is a Flat Felled Seam?

A flat felled seam is a strong and durable seam used in sewing garments and other fabrics. It is created by overlapping two fabric pieces and stitching them together in a way that hides the raw edges of the fabric. This type of seam is commonly used in jeans, shirts, jackets, and other heavy-duty clothing.

The flat felled seam is also known as the “ridged felled seam” or simply “fell seam”. It has been around for centuries, with evidence of its use dating back to ancient Greece. However, it gained popularity during the Industrial Revolution as it allowed for easier mass production of clothing. Today, this type of seam remains a popular choice among sewists due to its strength and clean finish.

Why Use a Flat Felled Seam?

There are several benefits to using a flat felled seam in your sewing projects. Firstly, it creates a strong bond between two pieces of fabric. The overlapping layers ensure that the seams can withstand wear and tear and will not easily come apart.

Additionally, due to the way the raw edges are folded inside the seam, there are no visible frayed edges on the outside of your garment. This gives the finished product a clean and professional look.

Furthermore, using flat felled seams allows for more comfortable wearing since there are no bulky or scratchy edges around the seams that can irritate the skin. This makes it an ideal choice for clothing items that will be worn directly against the skin.

Materials Needed

To sew a flat felled seam, you will need some basic materials:

– Two fabric pieces that you want to join
– Sewing machine with appropriate sewing needles
– Thread in matching color
– Ruler or measuring tape
– Iron
– Scissors or rotary cutter
– Pins or clips

It is important to choose a sturdy and high-quality fabric for your project, as the flat felled seam works best on thicker fabrics such as denim, twill, or canvas.

Step-by-Step Guide

Follow these steps to sew a flat felled seam:

Step 1: Prepare your fabric

Before starting, make sure you have cut out your fabric pieces according to your pattern and any markings have been transferred onto the fabric. Iron out any wrinkles or creases.

Step 2: Place the fabric pieces right sides together

Place the two fabric pieces that you want to join with their right sides facing each other. Make sure all edges are aligned and pin or clip in place. Leave about half an inch seam allowance on both sides of the fabric.

Step 3: Sew the first row of stitching

Sew a straight line along the pinned edge, using a ½ inch seam allowance. It is crucial to backstitch at both ends of the seam to secure it.

Step 4: Trim excess fabric

Trim one edge of the seam allowance down to around ⅛ of an inch. This will help reduce bulkiness when flipping over the raw edge later.

Step 5: Fold and iron the larger seam allowance

Fold over the larger seam allowance towards the wrong side of the fabric and iron it in place. This will create a folded edge that covers the raw edges on one side of your fabric.

Step 6: Sew second row of stitching

Fold over and iron again, this time by about another ⅛ of an inch. Then sew another row of stitching along this folded edge.

Tips and Tricks

– To ensure that both sides of your seam are even, use a ruler or measuring tape to measure and mark where you need to fold over your larger seam allowance.
– If you are working with thicker fabrics, it may be helpful to use a hammer to lightly pound the seams before ironing. This helps flatten the fabric and creates a crisp edge.
– Use a denim needle or any heavy-duty needle on your sewing machine when working with thicker fabrics. This will prevent your needle from breaking or getting stuck.
– Practice on some scrap fabric before sewing a flat felled seam on your actual project to get the hang of it.

The flat felled seam is a classic and durable sewing technique that produces clean and professional-looking results. With the right materials, tools, and techniques, you can easily sew this type of seam yourself and elevate the quality of your garments. Remember to practice and have patience as it may take some time to perfect this technique, but once mastered, you can confidently use it in all your sewing projects.

The Basics of Flat Felled Seams

Flat felled seams, also known as double-stitched or flat seams, are used in sewing to create strong, durable and neat finishes on garments. They are commonly found on denim jeans, workwear shirts and other heavy-duty clothing items. This type of seam is often used in place of a plain straight stitch to add strength and durability to a garment.

The flat felled seam is achieved by first sewing the fabric pieces with wrong sides together and then folding over one edge of the fabric and stitching it down onto the other side. This creates two lines of stitching on the right side of the fabric, making it both attractive and strong. It is important to note that this type of seam can only be used on fabrics that do not fray easily such as denim, canvas or twill.

Tools and Materials for Sewing a Flat Felled Seam

Sewing a flat felled seam requires some basic tools and materials that are easily available in any sewing kit. These include:

– Fabric: As mentioned earlier, this type of seam works best on fabrics that do not fray easily. Heavy-weight cotton or denim would be ideal for this technique.
– Sewing machine: While it is possible to sew a flat felled seam by hand, using a sturdy sewing machine with a heavy-duty needle will make the process much faster and neater.
– Thread: Choose a thread color that matches your fabric for an invisible finish.
– Scissors: A good pair of sharp scissors will make cutting through thick fabrics much easier.
– Pins or clips: These are useful for holding the fabric pieces together while sewing.
– Iron: A hot iron is essential for pressing down the seam after stitching.

Steps for Sewing A Flat Felled Seam

Step 1: Prepare your fabric pieces

Before you start sewing, it is important to prepare your fabric pieces. Cut them to the desired size and make sure the edges are neat and straight. If you are sewing a garment, make sure you have enough seam allowance for a flat felled seam.

Step 2: Pin or clip pieces together

Lay your fabric pieces with wrong sides facing each other and carefully align the edges. Use pins or clips to hold them in place.

Step 3: Stitch the first seam

Using a straight stitch, sew along the length of the fabric pieces, ½ inch from the edge. This will be your first line of stitching.

Step 4: Trim excess fabric

Using scissors, trim off any excess fabric close to the stitched line. This will reduce bulkiness and make it easier to fold over the seam.

Step 5: Press down the seam

Use an iron to press down the seam flat. This will help in creating a crisp and neat finish.

Step 6: Fold over one edge of fabric

Fold over one edge of the fabric towards the wrong side by ½ inch. Make sure this folded edge covers the first stitched line completely.

Step 7: Stitch along second fold

Stitch along this second fold, close to the open edge. This will create your second line of stitching on top of the first one.

Step 8: Press again

Iron down this second fold, making sure both lines of stitching are pressed down neatly.

Benefits of Sewing A Flat Felled Seam

– Durability: The flat felled seam creates two lines of stitching, making it much stronger than a plain straight stitch.
– Neat finish: The double stitching creates an attractive and clean finish that looks professional.
– No fraying: This type of seam prevents fraying on fabrics that may be prone to it.
– Suitable for heavy-duty fabrics: Flat felled seams work best on heavy-weight fabrics such as denim or canvas, which are commonly used for clothing items that require more strength and durability.

Tips and Tricks for Sewing A Flat Felled Seam

– Use a longer stitch length when first sewing the fabric pieces together. This will make it easier to remove the first line of stitches if needed.
– Trim any frayed edges before sewing to get a neat finish.
– If you want a more visible topstitch, choose a thread color that contrasts with your fabric.
– Practice makes perfect. Sewing flat felled seams can be challenging at first, but with practice, you will be able to achieve neat and professional results.

Flat felled seams are a great technique to add strength and durability to your sewing projects. With some practice, you will be able to master this technique and use it on a variety of clothing items. Remember to choose the right fabric and tools for best results, and always take your time when sewing. Happy stitching!

1. What exactly is a flat felled seam?

A flat felled seam is a sewing technique that encases the raw edges of two pieces of fabric, creating a durable and finished seam. It is commonly used for clothing items such as jeans, shirts, and jackets.

2. What equipment do I need to sew a flat felled seam?

To sew a flat felled seam, you will need a sewing machine, fabric scissors, pins, marking tool, iron and ironing board, and thread that matches your fabric.

3. Can I sew a flat felled seam by hand?

Yes, it is possible to sew a flat felled seam by hand using a strong needle and sturdy thread. However, it may be more time-consuming compared to using a sewing machine.

4. Which fabrics are suitable for flat felled seams?

Flat felled seams work best on medium to heavyweight fabrics such as denim, cotton twill, canvas, or linen. Avoid using lightweight or stretchy fabrics as they may not hold the seam properly.

5. How do I prepare the fabric before sewing a flat felled seam?

Before sewing the flat felled seam, make sure to prewash and dry the fabric according to its care instructions. This will prevent shrinking or puckering of the seams after sewing.

6. Can I use any stitch type when sewing a flat felled seam?

The most common stitch used for a flat felled seam is the straight stitch with around 5 mm in length. You can also use a zigzag stitch if you want added strength to your seam. Be sure to test the stitches on scrap fabric first before starting on your project.

In conclusion, knowing how to sew a flat felled seam is a valuable skill for any sewing enthusiast. This technique not only creates a strong and durable seam, but also adds a professional finish to different types of garments and projects. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you can easily master the process of sewing a flat felled seam and incorporate it into your sewing repertoire.

Key takeaways from this guide include selecting the appropriate fabric, preparing and cutting the fabric pieces, setting up your sewing machine properly, and following the step-by-step instructions to sew the seam correctly. It is important to take your time and practice the technique on scrap fabric before attempting it on your final project.

By mastering the art of sewing a flat felled seam, you will have the ability to create beautifully finished garments that will last for years to come. With practice, you can even experiment with different variations of this seam to add personal touches and unique designs to your projects.

Remember that patience and attention to detail are key when it comes to successfully sewing a flat felled seam. With time and practice, you will become confident in your skills and be able to incorporate this technique into all of your sewing projects.

Whether you are an experienced sewist or just starting out, learning how to sew a

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.