Stretch Your Skills: The Ultimate Guide on How To Sew Spandex

Do you have a favorite pair of spandex pants that you just can’t seem to part ways with? Or perhaps you’re preparing for a big performance but can’t seem to find the right fit in the stores. Well, look no further because we have just the solution for you – learning how to sew spandex! Whether you’re a seasoned pro or a complete beginner, this article will cover all the basics of sewing with this tricky yet versatile fabric. From choosing the right needle to executing perfect seams, get ready to take your sewing skills to the next level with our ultimate guide on how to sew spandex. So, grab your materials and let’s dive into this stretchy world of spandex!

Spandex, also known as elastane or Lycra, is a versatile and stretchy material commonly used in activewear, dancewear, and swimwear. As a seamstress or fashion enthusiast, learning how to sew with spandex can open up a whole new world of design possibilities. However, it can also be quite challenging to work with due to its unique properties. In this guide, we will go through everything you need to know to master sewing with spandex.

Understanding Spandex Fabric

Before getting into the specifics of how to sew with spandex, it’s essential to understand what this fabric is and why it can be tricky to work with. Spandex is a synthetic fabric made from a combination of polyurethane and polyester. It is known for its incredible stretch and recovery capabilities, which means that it can be stretched up to 500% of its original size and still return to its original shape. This makes it the perfect choice for clothing that requires flexibility and movement.

Choosing the Right Sewing Machine

When it comes to sewing spandex, having the right tools is crucial. The first thing you need to consider is your sewing machine. Not all machines are suitable for working with stretchy fabrics like spandex. Ideally, you want a machine that has a stretch stitch setting or zigzag stitch capability. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread.

Additionally, look for a machine with adjustable presser foot pressure and a walking foot attachment option. The adjustable pressure ensures that the fabric doesn’t get stretched or distorted while sewing, while the walking foot helps feed the fabric evenly through the machine.

Choosing the Right Needles

Another essential tool when working with spandex is needles. Regular sewing needles are not suitable for this type of fabric as they may cause skipped stitches or even damage the fabric. Instead, opt for a stretch needle or a ballpoint needle. These needles have rounded points that allow them to slide between the fibers rather than piercing them, preventing damage.

Some seamstresses also recommend using a twin needle for hemming spandex. This creates a professional-looking finish and helps prevent puckering.

Prep Your Fabric

Preparation is key when it comes to sewing with spandex. Before starting, always prewash and dry your fabric as spandex can shrink when washed. Also, avoid using fabric softener or dryer sheets as they can leave a residue on the fabric that makes it slippery and harder to work with.

Once your fabric is clean and dry, it’s time to prepare it for sewing. Lay it flat on your cutting table and use weights instead of pins to keep the fabric in place. Pins can leave holes in the fabric, which may be visible after sewing.

Tips for Cutting Spandex

Cutting spandex can be challenging due to its stretchiness. Here are some tips to help you get an accurate cut:

– Use pattern weights instead of pins: As mentioned earlier, pins can leave holes in the fabric and distort its shape. Instead, use pattern weights or heavy objects like books to keep the pattern in place while cutting.
– Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter: A sharp blade is essential when cutting spandex as it helps prevent jagged edges.
– Cut against the grain: Spandex stretches more in one direction than the other. To ensure proper fit and drape, always cut against the grain.
– Avoid pulling or stretching the fabric while cutting: This may seem obvious, but it’s essential not to pull or stretch the fabric while cutting as this can lead to inaccurate measurements and warped patterns.

Sewing Techniques for Spandex

Now that you have everything prepared let’s move on to sewing techniques for spandex.

– Use a stretch stitch or zigzag stitch: As mentioned earlier, these stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread.
– Start and end your stitching with a backstitch: This will secure the thread and prevent it from unraveling.
– Use a walking foot: If your sewing machine has a walking foot attachment, use it. This will help feed the fabric evenly through the machine, preventing any puckering or stretching.
– Practice first: Before starting on your actual project, practice sewing with scrap fabric to get used to working with spandex and adjusting your stitches.

Finishing Touches

Once you’ve finished sewing your spandex garment, it’s time for some finishing touches. Here are some tips:

– Trim excess seam allowance: Spandex garments need minimal seam allowances as they are quite stretchy. Trim any excess seam allowance to reduce bulk.
– Use stabilizers for hems and edges: To prevent stretching and distortion when hemming or adding edges to your garment, use a stabilizer like tissue paper or wash-away stabilizer underneath.
– Press carefully: Spandex does not respond well to high heat, so be cautious when pressing. Always use a pressing cloth between the fabric and

What is Spandex?

Spandex, also known as Lycra or elastane, is a synthetic fabric that is popular for its stretchability and elasticity. It was first developed in the late 1950s as a replacement for rubber and has since become an important material in the textile industry. Spandex is made up of long-chain polymer molecules, which have the ability to stretch up to 500% of their original length without breaking. This unique property makes spandex perfect for active-wear and figure-hugging clothing.

Benefits of Sewing with Spandex

Sewing with spandex can be a daunting task for some, but the end result is definitely worth it. Here are some benefits of choosing spandex as your fabric:

1. Comfort: Spandex is known to be one of the most comfortable fabrics due to its stretchability. It moves with your body, making it ideal for garments that require a lot of movement like workout clothes or dancewear.

2. Durability: Spandex has excellent recovery properties, meaning it can bounce back to its original shape after stretching. This makes it perfect for athletic wear or any other garments that require frequent washing and wearing.

3. Versatility: Spandex comes in a variety of compositions and finishes, making it suitable for various types of garments. You can find spandex blends that are lightweight and breathable for activewear, or heavier blends with higher levels of compression for shapewear.

4. Visual appeal: Spandex gives your clothing a sleek and smooth appearance due to its clingy nature. It also enhances your shape by hugging your body in all the right places, giving you a flattering look.

Tools and Supplies Needed

To successfully sew with spandex, you will need some specialized tools and supplies:

1. Sewing Machine: While you can sew spandex by hand, it is much easier and faster to use a sewing machine. Make sure your machine has a stretch or zigzag stitch and a ballpoint needle.

2. Thread: Use polyester thread for sewing spandex, as it has some stretch and won’t break easily.

3. Ballpoint needles: These needles have a rounded tip, which helps to avoid snagging or tearing the fabric while sewing.

4. Sewing clips: Pins can leave permanent holes in spandex, so it’s best to use sewing clips to hold your fabric in place during the sewing process.

5. Fabric scissors: Invest in a good pair of fabric scissors to give you clean and precise cuts on your spandex.

6. Iron/Pressing cloth: Spandex is sensitive to heat, so always use a pressing cloth if you need to iron your garment.

Tips for Sewing with Spandex

1. Pre-wash your fabric: This will help prevent any shrinkage after you have made your garment.

2. Choose the right needle: As mentioned earlier, make sure you use a ballpoint needle when working with spandex. A universal or sharp needle can cause tears or skipped stitches.

3. Use the right stitch: The best stitch for sewing spandex is a zigzag stitch as it allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread. You can also use a serger if you have one.

4. Test first: It’s always recommended to test your stitches on scrap fabric before sewing on your final garment. This will help you determine the correct tension and stitch length needed for your specific project.

5. Use sewing clips instead of pins: Pins can leave holes in spandex, which will be visible even after removing them from the fabric. Sewing clips are a better alternative as they don’t puncture the fabric but still hold it securely in place.

Step-by-step Guide to Sewing with Spandex

1. Prepare your fabric by washing and drying it beforehand.

2. Lay out your pattern pieces on the fabric, following the grainline marked on the pattern. Be sure to align the stretch direction of the fabric with the stretch direction indicated on the pattern.

3. Use sewing clips to secure your pattern pieces in place.

4. Set your sewing machine to a stretch or zigzag stitch and select a ballpoint needle.

5. Start sewing from an area with a straight edge, as this will give you a clean and straight seam line.

6. As you sew, gently pull the fabric from behind to prevent it from getting bunched up or stretched too much.

7. To finish the seams, use a twin needle or a zigzag stitch over the raw edges.

8. Press your seams using medium heat and a pressing cloth to avoid damaging the fabric.

9. Continue sewing according to your pattern instructions until your garment is complete.

Caring for Your Spandex Garments

Spandex can be quite delicate, so proper care is essential in maintaining its quality and lifespan:

1. Always wash spandex garments inside out in cold water using mild detergent.

2. Avoid using bleach, as it can

1. What is spandex and what makes it different from other fabrics?
Spandex, also known as Lycra or elastane, is a synthetic fabric that is highly stretchable and lightweight. It is made up of a combination of polyurethane and polyester, which gives it its elastic properties and makes it different from other fabrics.

2. Can I sew spandex with a regular sewing machine?
Yes, you can sew spandex with a regular sewing machine. However, it is recommended to use a machine that has stretch stitches or an overlock/serger for better results. If using a regular sewing machine, adjust the stitch length to a longer setting and use a ballpoint needle to prevent the fabric from getting damaged.

3. Do I need special sewing techniques when working with spandex?
Sewing with spandex requires some special techniques to ensure quality and longevity of the garment. These include using stretch stitches or zigzag stitches for seam construction, using the correct needle size (75/11) and thread tension, and stretching the fabric while sewing to prevent puckering.

4. How should I handle and store spandex fabric?
Spandex fabric should be handled carefully as it has a tendency to overstretch and lose its elasticity. Avoid hanging spandex on hangers or storing it folded in tight spaces. Instead, roll the fabric loosely and store flat in a dry place away from direct sunlight.

5. Can I iron spandex fabric?
Ironing spandex can prove challenging as high heat can damage the elastic fibers in the fabric and cause it to lose its stretchability. If necessary, use an iron on the lowest heat setting or place a pressing cloth between the fabric and iron.

6. How do I avoid skipped stitches when sewing spandex?
Skipped stitches are common when sewing with spandex due to its slippery and stretchy nature. To avoid this, use a walking foot or place tissue paper on top of the fabric while sewing to stabilize it. You can also try using a stretch needle or holding the thread tails taut while starting to sew.

In conclusion, sewing with spandex may seem daunting at first, but with the right techniques and tools, anyone can master this stretchy fabric. It is important to select the appropriate needle and thread and use proper stitching techniques to ensure a durable and professional result. Preparing the fabric properly, minimizing movement while sewing, and using a walking foot or ballpoint needle can all help to prevent issues such as puckering or skipped stitches.

Additionally, having a good understanding of the properties of spandex and how it behaves during sewing can greatly improve the overall outcome. Taking the time to practice on scrap fabric and familiarizing oneself with different types of seams and finishes can also lead to successful projects.

Furthermore, always remember to handle spandex gently and use caution when ironing or washing it. By following these tips and techniques, you can confidently tackle any project that involves sewing with spandex.

Finally, sewing with spandex not only allows for comfortable and form-fitting clothing options but also provides endless opportunities for creativity in design. No matter if you are making activewear, swimwear, or everyday clothing, mastering how to sew spandex opens up a world of possibilities.

In conclusion, sewing with spandex may require some patience and practice, but the rewards are well worth it. With

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.