Unraveling the Mystery: A Guide to Understanding Selvages in Sewing

AvatarByJill Nammar

Sewing may seem like a straightforward and simple hobby, but any avid seamstress knows that it is a craft with its own intricate details and terminology. One such term that may have newcomers scratching their heads is “selvages.” But fear not, as in this article we will explore the world of selvages in sewing. From the definition to their importance in garment making, by the end of this piece you’ll have a better understanding of what selvages are and how to work with them. So grab your sewing kit and let’s dive into the world of selvages!

What Are Selvages In Sewing: Understanding the Basics

Sewing is a skilled craft that has been practiced for centuries. From fashion design to home decor, sewing has found its way into almost every aspect of our lives. However, to create a high-quality sewn piece, one must understand the basics of sewing. One essential concept in sewing is selvages. If you’re new to the sewing world, you may be wondering what they are and why they matter. In this article, we will delve deep into the world of selvages and understand their importance in sewing.

Defining Selvages

Selvages (also spelt as ‘selvedges’) are defined as the finished edge of a woven fabric that runs parallel to its lengthwise grain. They are formed during the weaving process when the weft (the horizontal threads) turns at the end of each row and runs back in the opposite direction. The selvage acts as a boundary for the woven fabric and prevents it from unraveling or fraying.

The Importance of Selvages in Sewing

While selvages may seem like just another part of a fabric, they play a crucial role in ensuring high-quality and durable sewn pieces.

Firstly, selvages provide stability to fabrics. Due to their tightly woven structure, they prevent the fabric from stretching or warping during construction or wear.

Secondly, selvages help maintain grainline consistency. When cutting patterns for sewing projects, it’s essential to align them with the lengthwise grain of the fabric for proper fit and drape. The selvage acts as a guide for keeping this grainline consistent throughout your project.

Thirdly, using selvages in sewing can save you time and money. As mentioned earlier, they prevent fraying; thus, eliminating the need for serging or zig-zag stitching the raw edges to prevent them from unraveling. This can save you time and money on extra supplies.

Types of Selvages

Selvages come in various types depending on the type of fabric and its intended use. Some common types include:

Woven Selvages

Woven selvages are found on most woven fabrics, such as cotton, linen, wool, and silk. They have a dense and tightly woven structure and are usually about 1/4 to 1/2 inch in width. The edges may be different colors or have a different texture compared to the rest of the fabric due to the turning process during weaving.

Knitted Selvages

Knitted selvages are found on some knit fabrics, such as jersey or ribbed knits. They are formed by looping the weft yarn around the last stitch in each row, creating a continuous round edge. Knitted selvages may be more stretchy compared to woven ones.

Frayed Selvages

Some fabrics, like denim or canvas, have frayed selvages intentionally left as part of their design. The frayed edges add a rustic or edgy look to the fabric and can be used for decorative purposes in sewing projects.

How to Use Selvages in Sewing

Now that you understand what selvages are and their importance let’s look at how you can use them in your sewing projects.

The most common way is by incorporating them into your seam allowances. Since they are already finished edges, there’s no need to serge or stitch them before sewing your seams together.

Another way is by using them for visual interest or decorative purposes. You can add a strip of selvage as an accent on collars, cuffs, or pockets. Alternatively, you can use them to create interesting hems or add a pop of color to a plain piece of clothing.

Tips for Working with Selvages

Here are a few tips to keep in mind when working with selvages in your sewing projects:

– When using selvages in your seam allowances, make sure they are facing each other. This will ensure that the colored edge is hidden inside the seam.
– Cut off any frayed or uneven selvage edges before incorporating them into your project.
– If you’re working with multiple fabrics, make sure to mark which one is the selvage side. This will help you maintain consistency throughout your project.
– Before cutting, check if there’s any extra fabric needed at the selvage ends for your project. Some fabrics may have defects or uneven edges on the selvages, which could affect your project if not accounted for.

Selvages may seem like a small detail in sewing, but they hold significant importance. They provide stability and consistency to fabrics and can save you time and money in the sewing process. So next time you have a sewing project, don’t overlook the humble selvage; instead, embrace its usefulness and incorporate it into your sewing techniques.

What Are Selvages In Sewing: An In-Depth Guide

Selvages, also known as selvedges, are a term used in sewing and textile industry to describe the self-finished edges of fabrics. These edges run parallel to the length of the fabric and are created during the weaving process. They are tightly woven to prevent fraying and give fabrics a clean and polished look.

In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into everything you need to know about selvages in sewing. From understanding their purpose and characteristics to how to properly handle them in your sewing projects, this article will leave you well-informed about this important aspect of fabric.

The Purpose of Selvages

The primary purpose of selvages is to prevent fabrics from unraveling or fraying. When fabrics are woven on a loom, the threads run perpendicularly causing them to fray easily along the edges. Selvages contain extra tight weaving that helps stabilize these edges and prevent fraying.

Moreover, selvages also serve as markers for pattern placement during cutting as they indicate the straight grain of the fabric. This ensures that your garment does not end up skewed or distorted.

Characteristics of Selvages

Selvages have distinct features that make them easily identifiable from other parts of the fabric. Firstly, they have a tighter weave which results in a firmer texture compared to the rest of the fabric. This tight weaving also causes selvages to be less flexible than other parts of the fabric.

Secondly, selvages typically have a different color or design compared to the rest of the fabric. This is because manufacturers often use different yarns or dyes for selvage edges which make them stand out from the rest of the material.

Lastly, selvages may also contain information about the fabric such as brand name, fiber content, and washing instructions. This is especially common in commercial fabrics sold by the yard.

Types of Selvages

There are two main types of selvages – woven and knit.

Woven selvages are found on traditional woven fabrics such as cotton, linen, and silk. These selvages are created by weaving an extra thread along the edges which results in a stronger, tighter edge.

Knit selvages, on the other hand, are seen on stretchy fabrics like jersey and rib knit. They are created by a process called knitting-in which incorporates an extra loop along the edges while knitting the fabric. This gives knit selvages more stretch compared to their woven counterparts.

How to Handle Selvages In Sewing

When sewing with fabrics that have selvage edges, it is essential to understand how to handle them to avoid any mishaps in your project.

The first step is to inspect your fabric for any damages or defects along the selvage edges before cutting. Since these edges often have tighter weaving, they may contain imperfections that could affect your project’s outcome if not taken into account early on.

Next, make sure to cut off the selvage edges before starting your project. While it may seem like a waste of fabric, it is crucial for achieving accurate and professional-looking results. Selvage edges tend to be thicker than the rest of the fabric and leaving them intact can result in bulkiness or uneven seams.

For projects that require a lengthwise grain placement, such as skirts or pants with stripes, use those selvage edges as markers for cutting rather than relying on imprecise measurements. This will ensure that your garment is cut straight and true to its pattern.

Finally, when sewing seams near selvedges or using them as hemlines, be mindful not to stitch over them. Again, this can cause bulkiness or even distort your project’s shape.

Conclusion

In summary, selvages are the self-finished edges of woven and knit fabrics created during the weaving process to prevent fraying. They serve to stabilize fabrics, act as markers for cutting, and often contain important information about the material.

By understanding their purpose and characteristics, as well as how to handle them properly in sewing projects, you can achieve superior results in your garment making. So next time you come across selvages in your fabric, you’ll know exactly what they are and how to work with them like a pro.

Q: What are selvages in sewing?
A: Selvages are the tightly woven, finished edges of a fabric that run parallel to the lengthwise grain.

Q: Why are selvages important in sewing?
A: Selvages prevent fraying and unraveling of the fabric, allowing for a cleaner and more professional finish to your sewing projects.

Q: Can I use the selvage edge in my sewing project?
A: It is not recommended to use the selvage edge in your sewing project as it is often thicker and stiffer than the rest of the fabric, resulting in pleats or uneven gathers.

Q: How do I identify the selvage edge on my fabric?
A: The selvage edge will have a different texture or pattern than the rest of the fabric and may also have information about the manufacturer or design printed on it.

Q: Do all fabrics have selvages?
A: No, some fabrics may have been cut from a larger piece or may not require finished edges, so they will not have selvages.

Q: Can I remove the selvage before beginning to sew?
A: It is not recommended to remove the selvage before sewing as it helps with stabilizing and maintaining the shape of your fabric while you work with it. However, you can trim off excess after completing your project.

In conclusion, selvages are an important aspect of sewing that are often overlooked. They are the tightly woven edges of fabric that prevent unraveling and play a crucial role in maintaining the structure and stability of a garment. Selvages also have useful information printed on them, such as the fabric type, designer, and manufacturer. Therefore, it is essential to pay attention to selvages while working with fabric.

There are various types of selvages, including zigzag, fringed, raw edge, and decorative selvages. Each type has its own purpose and can be used creatively in sewing projects.

To properly utilize selvages in sewing, it is important to understand how they are created by the manufacturing process. This knowledge can also help in identifying high-quality fabrics with tightly woven and consistent selvages.

Furthermore, mistakes such as accidentally cutting off the selvages or not paying attention to their direction during cutting can lead to issues in the final garment. Therefore, it is crucial to handle selvages carefully and always incorporate them into the design whenever possible.

Apart from serving practical purposes in sewing, selvages can also add aesthetic value to a project. With different colors and patterns available on different fabrics’ selvages, they can be incorporated into designs as decorative elements or even as trimmings

Author Profile

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Jill Nammar
My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.