Mastering the Art of Hem Measurement: Tips and Tricks for Perfect Fit!

Have you ever struggled with getting the perfect fit for your clothes? One of the key factors in achieving a flattering and comfortable fit is ensuring that the hem is measured correctly. Whether you are altering a garment or making one from scratch, knowing how to measure a hem is an essential skill for any fashion enthusiast. In this article, we will guide you through the process of measuring a hem accurately, so you can achieve that flawless fit every time. So, grab your measuring tape and let’s dive into the world of hems.

Measuring a hem may seem like a simple task, but it is actually an important step in achieving a professional-looking finish to your clothing. Whether you are sewing your own garments or altering store-bought pieces, knowing how to properly measure a hem is essential. A hem refers to the fabric that is turned back and sewn in place at the edges of a garment. It helps to reinforce the edge of the fabric and give it a clean and polished appearance. Taking accurate measurements is crucial in ensuring that your hem is straight, even, and the correct length. In this article, we will guide you through the steps on how to measure a hem like an expert.

Understanding Hem Lengths

Before we dive into measuring hems, let’s first go over some basic terminology that you will encounter when working with hems.

Fold Line: This refers to the line where the fabric needs to be folded when creating a hem.
Hem Allowance: This is the amount of fabric that will be turned under and stitched into place.
Hem Width: The width of the finished edge of your hem.

Understanding these terms will help you better understand how to measure hems correctly.

Supplies Needed for Measuring Hems

In order to accurately measure hems, you will need a few basic supplies:

Tape Measure: This will be used to measure the length of your hem.
Sewing Ruler: A sewing ruler is specially designed with clear markings for ease in measuring and marking fabric.
Straight Pins: These will be used to secure your fabric in place while measuring.
Fabric Scissors: You will need these to trim excess fabric from your hem.

Having the correct tools on hand will make the process of measuring hems much smoother.

Measuring a Hem for Skirts or Dresses

When working with skirts or dresses, there are a few different hem lengths that you may encounter. Let’s go over each one and the steps to measure them accurately.

1. Straight Hem: This is a simple, straight edge hem that is commonly found on A-line skirts or dresses.

Step 1: Start by laying your garment flat on a table or other surface.
Step 2: Use your tape measure to measure from the bottom of the garment to the desired hem length.
Step 3: Pin along this measurement, ensuring that the fabric is straight.
Step 4: Using your sewing ruler as a guide, draw a straight line across the fabric at the pinned point.
Step 5: Trim any excess fabric along this line.
Step 6: Fold over the raw edge of the fabric to meet the marked line and pin in place.
Step 7: Sew along the folded edge to secure your new hem.

2. Curved Hem: Curved hems are commonly found on fitted skirts or dresses and can be a bit trickier to measure accurately.

Step 1: Lay your garment flat on a table or other surface.
Step 2: Starting at one side seam, use your tape measure to measure from the bottom of the garment to the desired hem length at various points around the curve.
Step 3: As you go around, mark each measurement with pins.
Step 4: Use these pins as guidelines to draw a smooth curve along which you will cut off the excess fabric.
Step 5: Once you have drawn the curve, double check the measurements to ensure they are even and straight.
Step 6: Trim along the marked line, being careful not to cut past the measured points.
Step 7: Fold over the raw edge of the fabric to meet the marked line and pin in place.
Step 8: Sew along the folded edge to secure your new hem.

Measuring a Hem for Pants

Measuring a hem for pants is slightly different from measuring skirts or dresses. Here are the steps to follow:

Step 1: Put on your pants and stand on a flat surface with your shoes on.
Step 2: Use your tape measure to measure from the bottom of your pant leg to where you want your hem to fall.
Step 3: Pin this measurement in place, making sure that it is even around both pant legs and that your pants are not twisted.
Step 4: Take off your pants and lay them flat on a table or other surface.
Step 5: Using your sewing ruler as a guide, draw a straight line across both pant legs at the pinned point.
Step 6: Trim any excess fabric along this line.
Step 7: Fold over the raw

The Importance of Properly Measuring a Hem

When it comes to clothing alterations, proper measurement is crucial for achieving the perfect fit. The same goes for hems – the edge of a piece of fabric that is folded and sewn to prevent fraying. Whether you are altering a store-bought garment or creating your own from scratch, knowing how to measure a hem correctly is essential for achieving professional-looking results.

Not only does measuring a hem ensure that your clothes fit properly, but it also saves you from having uneven or unevenly sewn hems. A poorly done hem can ruin the entire look of an outfit, no matter how well-made the rest of the garment may be. In this guide, we will discuss why measuring a hem is important and how to do it accurately.

The Tools You Will Need

Before we dive into the actual process of measuring a hem, here are some tools that you will need:

1. Measuring tape – this is the most critical tool in any sewing project. Use one with both imperial and metric measurements for flexibility.

2. Marking pen or chalk – you will need a tool to make marks on your fabric while measuring.

3. Fabric scissors – fabric scissors are specifically designed for cutting fabrics and will give you clean edges without fraying.

4. Ruler – although not as versatile as a measuring tape, having a ruler handy comes in handy when you need straight edges or uniform measurements.

5. Straight pins – these come in handy when marking measurements on your fabric and keeping layers together while sewing.

Understanding Hem Allowances

Before we get into how to measure a hem, you must understand what hem allowances are. A hem allowance refers to the extra fabric that extends below the desired finished length of your garment. The amount of allowance depends on many factors such as the type of fabric, the style of the garment, and personal preference.

For instance, for a lightweight summer dress, you may have a hem allowance of 1 inch, while for a heavy wool coat, you may have an allowance of 2 or 3 inches. Depending on the type of hem you want to create, you may need a larger or smaller hem allowance. Some common types of hems are blind hems, rolled hems, and double-folded hems.

Measuring Before Cutting

The most accurate way to measure a hem is before cutting out your fabric pieces. This method also ensures that both sides of your garment are even. Here’s how to do it:

Step 1: Start by determining the desired length of your garment.

Step 2: Add the hem allowance to the desired length. Using straight pins, make marks on both sides of your fabric at this length.

Step 3: Carefully measure from these pins to the bottom edge of your fabric using a ruler or measuring tape. Make adjustments if necessary.

Step 4: Once you are satisfied with the length, use fabric scissors to cut along the marked line.

Measuring After Sewing

While measuring before cutting is ideal and gives you more accuracy, there will be times when you need to measure after sewing. This method is useful when altering an existing garment or when there is not enough fabric left for measuring before cutting. Here’s how to do it:

Step 1: Use straight pins to mark where you want your new hemline to be. If there is an existing hemline, use that as a guide.

Step 2: Slip on your garment and mark where you want the new hemline to fall using pins or marking pen.

Step 3: Take off your garment and carefully measure from these marks down to where you want your new hemline to be using measuring tape or ruler.

Step 4: Remove the excess fabric, making sure to leave enough for your hem allowance.

Pro Tips for Accurate Measuring

1. Use a clear and even surface to ensure accurate measurements.

2. When marking, insert straight pins vertically into the fabric with the heads facing in the same direction as your measuring tape.

3. Test your measuring tape for accuracy by checking if the markings line up with a ruler at every inch or centimeter mark.

4. Avoid pulling or stretching the fabric when measuring – this can result in inaccurate measurements.

5. If you are in doubt about your measurements, always err on the side of caution and add a little extra length to your hem allowance.

Accurate measurement is crucial when it comes to creating professional-looking hems. Even a small error can result in uneven hems, making an otherwise well-made garment look amateurish. By following these tips and using the right tools, you can achieve precise and symmetrical hems for all your sewing projects. So next time you find yourself needing to measure a hem, refer back to this guide for perfect results every time.

1. What is a hem?
A hem is the folded and sewn edge of fabric that prevents fraying and gives a neat finish to a garment.

2. Why is it important to measure a hem?
Measuring a hem ensures that the length of the garment is accurate and fits as desired. It also helps maintain symmetry and balance in the overall look of the garment.

3. What tools do I need to measure a hem?
You will need a measuring tape, pins, fabric marking tool (such as tailor’s chalk), and scissors to measure a hem accurately.

4. How do I measure a hem on straight edges?
To measure a straight edge hem, lay the fabric on a flat surface and use pins to keep it in place. Then, use a measuring tape to measure the desired length from the bottom edge of the fabric. Once measured, mark the length using your fabric marking tool and cut along that line with scissors.

5. How do I measure a curved or uneven hem?
For curved or uneven hems, you can either use a curved ruler or drape the fabric over an ironing board and use pins to mark where you want your finished hemline to be. Alternatively, you can try on the garment and adjust the length as needed before marking and cutting.

6. How can I make sure my hems are even on both sides?
To ensure an even hem on both sides of your garment, start by measuring from the center point at the front or back of the garment. Make sure this point is aligned with your desired length, then move towards one side at a time while measuring and marking with pins before cutting along that line for an evenly trimmed hem.

In conclusion, measuring a hem may seem like a simple task, but it is crucial for achieving perfectly fitted and professional-looking clothing. By following the steps outlined in this guide, anyone can learn how to accurately measure a hem and make necessary adjustments for a tailored fit. It is important to remember to measure from multiple points and to take into account personal preferences when determining the length of a hem. Additionally, the type of fabric and desired finishing also play important roles in measuring a hem. By understanding and properly executing these techniques, one can avoid common errors and ensure a well-fitted garment that will enhance their overall appearance. Ultimately, mastering the art of measuring a hem takes practice and patience, but with these tips in mind, anyone can achieve great results. So next time you are faced with altering or creating a garment with hems, remember these key points to achieve the perfect fit every time. Investing time in properly measuring hems will not only result in better fitting clothes but also save both time and money in the long run.

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.