Mastering the Art of Sewing on Knit Fabric: A Step-by-Step Guide

Sewing is a timeless skill that has been passed down through generations, bringing joy and creativity into our lives. However, when it comes to sewing on knit fabric, many beginners may feel intimidated or unsure of where to start. But fear not, because in this article we will guide you through simple and effective techniques on how to successfully sew on knit fabric. Whether you are a seasoned sewing enthusiast or just starting out, these tips and tricks will have you creating beautiful pieces with confidence in no time. Let’s dive into the world of sewing on knit fabric!

1. Understanding Knit Fabric

Knit fabric is a type of fabric that is created through the interlocking of yarns, making it stretchy and comfortable to wear. It is an essential material for sewing all sorts of garments, from t-shirts and tops to dresses and leggings. Unlike woven fabrics, knit fabrics are made with a single continuous thread that follows a looped pattern, giving them their characteristic stretchiness. This unique construction makes sewing on knit fabric a bit different from working with woven fabrics, and that’s why it’s important to have a good understanding of this type of fabric before attempting to sew with it.

The Types of Knit Fabric

Knit fabrics come in various types, each with its own distinctive features. The most common types of knit fabric include jersey, interlock, ribbing, ponte de roma, and sweater knits. Jersey knit is probably the most well-known and used type of knit fabric. It is lightweight and has a smooth surface on one side and ridges on the other. Interlock knit is similar to jersey but thicker and more stable due to its double-knit structure. Ribbing is usually used for cuffs, waistbands, or neckline finishes due to its stretchiness. Ponte de roma is a double-knit fabric that resembles woven material but still has some stretch. Lastly, sweater knits are perfect for creating cozy garments as they have a looser weave structure.

The Characteristics of Knit Fabric

While all types of knit fabric share certain characteristics such as stretchiness and flexibility, there are also differences among them that can affect your sewing techniques and choices. For example, jersey knit tends to be thinner than ponte de roma or interlock, which may require using different needle sizes or techniques for each type. Some knitted fabrics also have a higher spandex content than others, giving them more stretch and requiring specific handling techniques during sewing.

Choosing the Right Knit Fabric for Your Project

The key to successfully sewing on knit fabric is selecting the right type for your project. As mentioned earlier, different types of knit fabrics have different qualities that make them suitable for certain garments. For instance, if you want to make a fitted t-shirt, jersey knit would be an excellent choice due to its drape and lightweight nature. On the other hand, if you’re making a sweater or cardigan, then a thicker sweater knit would be more appropriate. When choosing a knit fabric, consider not only its stretch and weight but also its texture and drape, as these can greatly affect the look and feel of your finished garment.

Preparing Knit Fabric for Sewing

Once you’ve chosen the right type of knit fabric for your project, it’s essential to prepare it properly before sewing. Unlike woven fabrics that may require prewashing to prevent shrinkage, knit fabrics often don’t need this step. However, since knitted fabrics are prone to curling at the edges and stretching out of shape, it’s crucial to stabilize them before cutting. This can be done by gently pressing the fabric with an iron on low heat or using spray starch to add stability.

2. Tools and Materials Needed for Sewing on Knit Fabric

Before starting any sewing project with knit fabric, gather all the necessary tools and materials for your pattern beforehand. Working with knit fabrics requires slightly different tools and techniques compared to woven fabrics, so it’s crucial to have everything ready before you begin.

Sewing Machine

The most important tool you’ll need is a sewing machine with a zigzag stitch function. The zigzag stitch allows for some stretch in the seam without breaking when wearing the garment. Make sure your machine has a needle specifically designed for knits, such as a ballpoint or stretch needle.

Sewing Machine Needles

As mentioned, it’s crucial to use the right type of needles when sewing with knit fabric. Unlike woven fabrics, where universal needles can be used for most projects, knit fabrics require specialized needles due to their stretchiness and construction. Ballpoint needles have rounded tips that help them slide between the knitted loops without snagging or breaking them. Stretch needles have more pronounced ballpoints and can handle higher tension situations thanks to their slightly arched structure.

Cutting Tools

When cutting knit fabric, it’s best to avoid using scissors and opt for a rotary cutter instead. Scissors can often cause knitted fabrics to shift and stretch out of shape when cutting. A rotary cutter will provide more precision and reduce stretching. However, if you do use scissors, make sure they are sharp and able to cut through knitted fabric without causing pulls or snags.

Pins

While pins are essential in most sewing projects, using them with knit fabric can be tricky. The nature of knit fabric makes it prone to stretching and warping when pinned too tightly. To avoid this, use ballpoint

What is Knit Fabric?

Knit fabric is a type of textile that is created by using a series of interlocking loops of yarn. Unlike woven fabrics, which are made by crossing individual yarns, knit fabrics are formed from a continuous strand of yarn that is knotted together to create a stretchy and flexible material. Knit fabric is known for its ability to stretch and recover, making it ideal for clothing items that require a comfortable and form-fitting fit.

There are many different types of knit fabrics, including jersey, ribbed, and interlock. Each type has its own unique characteristics and uses, but they all offer the same qualities of stretch and flexibility. Knit fabric is used extensively in the fashion industry for clothing such as t-shirts, sweaters, leggings, and even underwear. It can also be found in other products like bedding, upholstery, and accessories.

The Benefits of Sewing on Knit Fabric

Sewing on knit fabric may seem intimidating at first, especially if you’re used to working with more stable fabrics like cotton or denim. However, there are many benefits to sewing on knit fabric that make it worth learning.

First and foremost, sewing on knit fabric allows you to create clothing items that are comfortable to wear. The stretchy nature of knit fabric means that your garment will move with your body rather than restrict it. This makes it ideal for items like activewear or anything that requires a little extra movement.

In addition to comfort, sewing on knit fabric also offers versatility. With the endless options of weights, colors, patterns, and styles available in knit fabric, you can create virtually any clothing item you can imagine. Whether you want a casual t-shirt or an elegant dress, you can find the perfect knit fabric to bring your vision to life.

Sewing on knit fabric also allows for easier fitting adjustments. The stretchiness of the fabric means that there is more give, so you don’t have to worry about getting the perfect fit on your first try. This can be especially helpful for beginners who may not be as skilled in pattern alterations.

Tools and Materials Needed to Sew on Knit Fabric

Before you begin sewing on knit fabric, it’s important to make sure you have all the necessary tools and materials on hand. Here is a list of essentials to get you started:

1. Sewing machine – You will need a machine that has the ability to perform a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch, as these are the best options for sewing on knit fabric.

2. Needles – It’s important to use the correct needle when sewing on knit fabric. A ballpoint or stretch needle is recommended, as they are designed specifically for use with knits and will help prevent any snags or skipped stitches.

3. Thread – Regular polyester thread is suitable for sewing on knit fabric, but some prefer using a polyester-covered cotton thread for more stretchable seams.

4. Scissors – Quality scissors are crucial when working with any type of fabric. Make sure you have a pair of sharp fabric scissors that can easily cut through knits without damaging the fibers.

5. Pins or clips – Unlike woven fabrics, pins are not always recommended when sewing on knits because they can leave holes in the material. Instead, many prefer using clips or even double-sided tape to hold pieces together while sewing.

6. Pattern and Fabric – Depending on what type of garment you want to create, you will need a pattern and corresponding knit fabric in your desired color and weight.

The Right Techniques for Sewing on Knit Fabric

Sewing on knit fabric requires a slightly different approach than sewing on woven fabrics. Here are some tips and techniques to help you achieve professional-looking results:

1. Use a stretch stitch or zigzag stitch – These types of stitches allow the fabric to stretch and recover without breaking the thread.

2. Use a walking foot – A walking foot is designed to evenly feed both the top and bottom layers of fabric through the machine. This is especially helpful when sewing with knits, as it prevents stretching or shifting of the fabric.

3. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle – As mentioned before, these types of needles are essential when sewing on knit fabric. They have a rounded tip that won’t damage the fibers of the knit, making them ideal for this type of material.

4. Test your stitch length and tension – Use scrap pieces of your chosen knit fabric to test various stitch lengths and tensions to find what works best for you. You want to make sure your stitches are not too loose or too tight so that they can stretch without breaking.

5. Finish raw edges – To prevent fraying, finish raw edges on your garment with either a serger, overlocking stitch, or a zigzag stitch.

Troubleshooting Common Issues when Sewing on Knit Fabric

Even with the right techniques, sewing on knit fabric can come with some challenges. Here are some common issues you may encounter and how to fix them:

Q: What type of needle and thread should I use when sewing on knit fabric?
A: It is best to use a ballpoint needle and polyester thread when sewing on knit fabric. The ballpoint needle will prevent snagging and the polyester thread will provide stretch and durability.

Q: How should I adjust my sewing machine’s tension for sewing on knit fabric?
A: Lower the tension on your sewing machine to prevent puckering or stretching of the fabric. Test your stitches on a scrap piece of knit fabric before starting your project to ensure the tension is adjusted correctly.

Q: Do I need to use a special stitch for sewing on knit fabric?
A: Yes, using a stretch stitch or zigzag stitch is recommended for sewing on knit fabric. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the threads, unlike straight stitches which can cause the seams to pop.

Q: Should I prewash my knit fabric before sewing?
A: It is always best to prewash your fabrics before sewing, including knit fabrics. This will prevent shrinking or warping after your project is completed.

Q: How can I prevent my knit fabric from stretching while sewing it?
A: Placing tissue paper or stabilizer underneath the fabric can help prevent stretching while you sew. You can also use clips or pins instead of needles, as needles can create larger holes in the woven material.

Q: What should I consider when choosing a pattern for knitting onto knit fabrics?
A: Look for patterns specifically designed for knits, as they will have more ease and stretch built into them. Also, pay attention to the directions for cutting out your pieces, as cutting against the grain could cause unwanted stretching.

In conclusion, sewing on knit fabric may seem like a daunting task, but with the right techniques and tools, it can be easily mastered. Understanding the characteristics of knit fabric, using appropriate sewing techniques, and having the right equipment are all essential in successfully sewing on knit fabric.

It is important to first prepare the fabric by stabilizing it and using a stretch needle to avoid damage or puckering. Using a stretch stitch or a serger also ensures that the seams have enough give to accommodate the stretch of the fabric.

Proper handling and manipulation of knit fabric while sewing and finishing techniques such as pressing with a press cloth and using twin needles for hems can result in professional-looking and durable garments.

Moreover, knowing how to sew on knit fabric opens up a world of possibilities in creating unique and comfortable clothing pieces. From basic t-shirts to more complex items like dresses or activewear, mastering this skill allows for endless creativity in your sewing projects.

Finally, patience and practice are key when it comes to sewing on knit fabrics. It may take some time to get comfortable with this type of fabric, but with each project, you will gain more confidence and improve your skills.

In conclusion, whether you’re new to sewing or an experienced seamstress looking to expand your skills, learning how

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.