Unlock the Secrets of Sewing Knits: A Step-by-Step Guide

Do you love the comfort and versatility of knit fabrics but feel intimidated by sewing them? You’re not alone. Many people are hesitant to tackle sewing knits, for fear of stretching, puckering, or ruining the fabric. But with a few tips and techniques, you can confidently sew knits and create stylish and comfortable garments that you’ll be proud to wear. In this article, we’ll explore the ins and outs of sewing knits, from choosing the right fabric to mastering various stitches. So whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewer looking to expand your skills, read on to discover how to sew knits like a pro.

Sewing knits can be intimidating for beginners or even experienced sewers. However, once you understand the basics and have the right tools and techniques, sewing knit fabrics can be a breeze and open up a whole new world of garment making. In this guide, we will discuss everything you need to know about sewing knits – from choosing the right fabric to mastering hemming techniques.

Understanding Knit Fabrics

Before diving into sewing knits, it is important to understand what exactly knit fabrics are. Unlike traditional woven fabrics, knits are made from a continuous thread rather than individual woven threads. This gives them their characteristic stretch and elasticity.

There are various types of knit fabrics such as jersey, interlock, rib knit, and double knit. Each type has its own unique properties and suitable for different types of projects. For example, jersey knits are lightweight and have good drape which makes them perfect for t-shirts and dresses whereas rib knits are great for cuffs and waistbands due to their stretchiness.

Choosing the Right Fabric

When it comes to choosing the right fabric for your project, it is important to select one that suits both the pattern and your personal preference. Knit fabric comes in various fiber content such as cotton, rayon, polyester, silk, etc. Cotton knits are soft and breathable while polyester knits are more sturdy with less stretch.

Before purchasing your fabric, make sure to check the stretch percentage listed on the bolt or online description. This will give you an idea of how much stretch the fabric has which is crucial for selecting the right size for your garment pattern.

Essential Tools for Sewing Knits

To successfully sew knits, having the right tools is key. Unlike sewing with wovens where a standard machine foot is enough, sewing with knit fabrics requires specialized tools. Here are some essential tools you need to have in your sewing kit:

– Ballpoint or Stretch Needle: These needles have rounded tips that glide through the knit fabric without damaging the fibers.
– Walking Foot: This foot has teeth that grip the fabric and move it along at the same rate as the machine’s feed dogs, preventing stretching or puckering.
– Twin Needle: This needle creates two parallel lines of stitching and is great for hemming knit garments.
– Rotary Cutter: Cutting knit fabrics with scissors can be tricky and result in uneven edges. A rotary cutter gives you clean and precise cuts.
– Clear Elastic Tape: This tape is used to stabilize shoulder seams, side seams, and even hems to prevent stretching.

Sewing Techniques for Knit Fabrics

Sewing knits requires a different approach than sewing wovens. Here are some techniques you need to know to successfully sew with knit fabrics:

– Use a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch instead of a straight stitch. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the threads.
– Stabilize the seams by using clear elastic tape or stay tape. This prevents the seams from stretching out during wear.
– When sewing hems, use a twin needle to create a professional-looking finish. Make sure to use enough tension so that the hem doesn’t pucker.

Finishing Techniques for Knit Garments

The finishing techniques used for knits are just as important as sewing techniques. Here are some ways to finish your knit garments like a pro:

– Pressing: Although knit fabrics don’t hold creases like wovens, pressing is still important for neat seams and hems. Use a pressing cloth between the fabric and iron to avoid damaging the fibers.
– Hemming: The most common way to hem knits is by using a twin needle. For added durability, you can also use a stretch stitch or coverstitch machine.
– Topstitching: Topstitching is a great way to add a professional touch to your knit garments. Use a stretch stitch or twin needle for this technique.
– Serger: A serger is not necessary for sewing knits, but it does create a clean and professional finish on the raw edges.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with the right tools and techniques, you may still encounter some issues while sewing knits. Here are some common problems and their solutions:

– Puckering: This occurs when the fabric stretches out too much during sewing. Make sure to use enough tension and the correct stitch length.
– Skipped Stitches: Skipped stitches happen when there is not enough tension on the thread. Try increasing the tension slightly or using a different needle.
– Fabric Curling: Knit fabrics tend to curl towards the right side, making it difficult to sew accurately. To prevent this, try using tissue paper between layers of fabric when sewing.

Sewing knits can be challenging at first, but with practice and patience, you can master this skill and create beautiful garments. Remember to choose the right fabric, gather all the necessary tools, and

What Are Knits?

Knits are a type of fabric that is known for its unique texture and stretch. Unlike most fabrics which are woven together, knits are made by interlocking loops of yarn. This creates a more fluid and flexible fabric, making it popular for clothing items such as t-shirts, sweaters, and leggings.

There are two main types of knits: weft knits and warp knits. Weft knits are created by looping yarn across each other horizontally, while warp knits involve vertical looping. This difference in construction leads to different characteristics in the finished fabric.

Knit fabrics also come in different weights and stretchiness. Some are more lightweight and have a lot of stretch like jersey knit, while others like double knit are thicker with less give. These variations make knits versatile for all seasons and various clothing needs.

The Benefits of Sewing Knits

Sewing with knit fabrics may seem intimidating at first, but there are many benefits to mastering this skill. Here are some of the advantages of sewing with knits:

Comfort: Knit fabrics have a soft texture and stretchiness that makes them incredibly comfortable to wear. They move with your body instead of restricting it like some woven fabrics.

Fit: Because of their stretchy nature, knit fabrics are forgiving when it comes to fit. They can mold to your body shape without being too tight or too loose, making them ideal for both fitted and looser styles.

Durability: Knit fabrics can withstand stretching without losing their shape or tearing easily. This means items made from knitted fabrics tend to last longer than those made from woven materials.

Movement: As mentioned earlier, the stretchiness of knit fabrics allows for freedom of movement. This makes them perfect for active wear, loungewear, and other clothing items that require flexibility.

Recommended Tools for Sewing Knits

To sew knits successfully, you will need to have the right tools. Sewing with knits requires a slightly different approach than sewing with woven fabrics. Here are some tools that will make your life easier when working with knits:

Ballpoint needles: These needles have a rounded tip instead of a sharp one. This helps prevent damage to knit fabrics while sewing.

Sewing machine with stretch stitches: Regular straight stitches can cause tension on knit fabrics and cause them to pucker or tear. Using a machine with built-in stretch stitches will ensure your seams can withstand the stretch of knit fabrics.

Serger/overlocker: A serger is not necessary but can provide a professional finish to your knit garments. It creates neat, enclosed seams that reduce fraying and make your items look more polished.

Twin needle: This specialized needle creates two parallel lines of stitching, mimicking the look of coverstitch that is commonly used in ready-to-wear knit clothing.

Rotary cutter/mat: Knit fabrics tend to roll and shift, making it challenging to cut them accurately with scissors. A rotary cutter and mat allow for more precise cutting.

Sewing Techniques for Knits

Sewing patterns designed for woven fabrics usually have seam allowances included, which means you can sew them as they are without any major adjustments. However, when sewing with knits, you need to be mindful of their stretchiness. Here are some techniques to keep in mind when sewing knits:

Taking accurate measurements: It may seem like common sense, but taking accurate body measurements is crucial when working with knit fabrics. Due to their stretchiness, you want your items to fit snugly without being too tight or too loose.

Using the right stitches: As mentioned earlier, using a regular straight stitch may cause issues with knit fabrics. Instead, opt for stretch stitches such as a zigzag or lightning bolt stitch to allow for some give in your seams.

Seam finishing: Knit fabrics tend to fray easily, so finishing your seams is essential. You can use an overlock or zigzag stitch on the edges of your seam allowance. If you have a serger, this step can be done while sewing the seams.

Stabilizing hems and necklines: To maintain the shape of hems and necklines, they need to be stabilized before sewing. This can be done with stay tape, clear elastic, or even strips of knit fabric. This will prevent them from stretching out over time.

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Knits

Sewing with knits may come with its own set of challenges, but don’t worry; they are easily fixable! Here are some common issues you may encounter while sewing knits and how to troubleshoot them:

Puckering: This happens when there is too much tension on your stitches. To fix this, try adjusting your

1. What are the basic supplies needed to sew with knits?
For sewing knits, you will need a serger or a sewing machine with an overlock stitch, ball-point needles, stretch twin needle, polyester thread, fabric cutting shears, and pins.

2. How do I determine the right needle size for sewing knits?
The general rule is to use a smaller needle size for lightweight knits and larger needle size for heavier knits. It is recommended to use a size 80/12 or 90/14 ball-point needle for most knit fabrics.

3. Can I use regular scissors to cut knit fabrics?
No, it is not recommended to use regular scissors to cut knit fabrics as they can cause the fabric to stretch and lead to uneven edges. Fabric cutting shears with serrated blades are ideal for cutting knits.

4. How do I prevent my knit fabric from stretching while sewing?
To prevent your knit fabric from stretching while sewing, you can use tissue paper underneath the fabric or place a piece of interfacing on top of your fabric before stitching. Additionally, using the correct tension and a walking foot on your machine can also help prevent stretching.

5. What is the difference between serger and overlock stitch?
A serger is a specialized machine that cuts the edges of the fabric while simultaneously stitching them together with an overlock stitch, resulting in finished edges. An overlock stitch is also available on most regular sewing machines and mimics the same effect as a serger.

6. How do I fix skipped stitches when sewing knits?
If you’re experiencing skipped stitches while sewing knits, try changing your needle or adjusting the tension settings on your machine. Also, make sure you’re using a compatible needle and thread combination for knitting fabrics.

In conclusion, learning how to sew knits can open up a whole new world of possibilities for creating comfortable and stylish garments. However, working with knits requires some special techniques and considerations in order to achieve successful results. From choosing the right knit fabric to using the appropriate stitches and techniques, there are several key factors to keep in mind when sewing with knits.

Firstly, it is important to understand the properties of different types of knit fabrics and how they affect your sewing process. The weight, stretch, and recovery of a fabric can greatly impact the fit and drape of your garment. By carefully selecting the right fabric for your project, you can ensure that your final product looks and feels as you intended.

Additionally, mastering certain techniques such as sewing with a stretch stitch or using a walking foot can make a huge difference in the overall quality of your finished garment. It is also important to pay attention to details like finishing seams and hemming to ensure durability and a professional finish.

Moreover, having a good understanding of your sewing machine’s capabilities and experimenting with different presser feet can greatly enhance your sewing experience with knits. With practice, you will become more comfortable working with knits and can even explore advanced techniques like creating decorative effects with twin needles or using sergers

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.