Mastering the Art of Sewing Jersey Knit: A Step-by-Step Guide

AvatarByJill Nammar Sewing

Sewing is a timeless craft that has been passed down through generations, evolving along the way to meet the needs and trends of modern society. While traditional sewing techniques are still widely practiced, there is one elusive fabric that seems to intimidate even the most experienced sewers: jersey knit. This versatile and comfortable fabric is commonly used in clothing, but its stretch and drape can make it a challenging material to work with. Fear not, for in this article we will be delving into the world of jersey knit and uncovering the secrets to successfully sewing with this fabric. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewer looking to expand your skills, this guide on how to sew jersey knit will have you confidently creating beautiful garments in no time. So, let’s thread our needles and get ready to unravel the mysteries of sewing jersey knit.

Sewing with jersey knit fabric may seem like a daunting task, but with the right techniques and tips, you can easily create beautiful and comfortable pieces for your wardrobe. Jersey knit is a popular type of fabric known for its stretch and softness, making it perfect for creating comfortable and stylish garments. However, sewing with jersey knit does require some special considerations to avoid damaging the fabric or creating poorly finished seams. In this guide, we will explore everything you need to know about sewing with jersey knit fabric.

Understanding Jersey Knit Fabric

Jersey knit is a type of stretchy, lightweight fabric made from a single knit. It is usually made from cotton or blended with synthetic fibers such as polyester or rayon. This fabric has a unique appearance thanks to its raised parallel lines on one side and flat lines on the other. Jersey knit is known for its excellent draping properties, making it ideal for creating flowy garments like T-shirts, dresses, and skirts.

The Right Tools and Equipment

To sew successfully with jersey knit fabric, you need to have the right tools at hand. When working with this stretchy material, standard sewing tools may not give you the desired results. Here are some essential tools and equipment that you will need:

Ballpoint needles

Since jersey knit is a stretchy fabric, regular needles may not be suitable as they can damage the material. Ballpoint needles are specially designed with rounded tips that push through the fibers of the fabric instead of piercing them. This helps prevent snags in the fabric and creates smooth stitches.

An all-purpose thread

When it comes to thread selection for sewing jersey knits, an all-purpose thread is your best bet. It has enough elasticity to work well with the stretch of this fabric while also being strong enough to withstand the tension of sewing machine stitches.

Walking foot or double needle

A walking foot is a helpful tool when sewing with jersey knit fabric as it evenly feeds the fabric through the machine, preventing slippage and puckering. Additionally, using a double needle can create neat and professional-looking hems on knit garments.

Preparation and Cutting

Before you begin sewing, it is essential to prepare your fabric properly. Jersey knit has a tendency to stretch out of shape when cutting, so here are some tips to ensure your fabric stays on grain:

Wash and dry your fabric

It is crucial to pre-wash your jersey knit fabric before sewing, especially if it contains cotton. This step will prevent any shrinkage or distortion that may occur after the garment is completed.

Use weights instead of pins

Pinning jersey knit can be tricky as traditional pins may leave holes in the fabric or cause stretching. Using pattern weights instead will help keep your fabric in place without damaging it.

Lay out your pattern pieces carefully

When laying out your pattern pieces on the fabric, make sure the grainline on the pattern matches with the direction of the raised parallel lines on the fabric. This will ensure that your final garment hangs correctly.

Sewing Techniques for Jersey Knit Fabric

Sewing with jersey knit requires some different techniques compared to sewing with woven fabrics. Here are some tips to help you achieve professional-looking results:

Use a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch

Most standard sewing machines have a stretch stitch setting specifically designed for sewing stretchy fabrics like jersey knits. You can also use a narrow zigzag stitch, which allows for more give in the seams compared to a straight stitch.

Lengthen your stitch length

A longer stitch length can help prevent the fabric from puckering or stretching while being sewn. A stitch length of 2.5-3mm is ideal for sewing with jersey knit.

Start and end your seams with a backstitch

Jersey knit has a tendency to unravel, so it is crucial to secure your stitches at the beginning and end of each seam with a backstitch. This will prevent your seams from coming undone after washing or wearing.

Iron gently

While ironing is essential for achieving neat and professional-looking results, it is crucial to be gentle when pressing jersey knit fabric. The high heat from an iron can easily damage the stretch of the fabric or create unwanted creases.

Finishing Touches and Further Tips

Completing your garment involves taking care of some finishing touches that can make a significant difference in the final result:

Hemming

A double needle is ideal for creating stretchy and neat hems on jersey knit fabric. Alternatively, you can also use a coverstitch machine for a more professional finish.

Banding

You can use ribbing or self-fabric bands to

Understanding Jersey Knit Fabric

Jersey knit fabric is a popular choice for sewing, especially for making comfortable and flowy garments. It is a type of knit fabric that is made from one continuous piece of yarn, resulting in a stretchy and lightweight material. Jersey knit fabric is commonly used for making t-shirts, dresses, skirts, and even underwear.

The most distinguishing feature of jersey knit fabric is its raised parallel lines on one side and smooth on the other. This gives the fabric a unique texture and makes it different from other types of knitted fabrics. Due to its versatility and comfort, jersey knit has become a staple in many wardrobes.

One key factor to keep in mind when sewing with jersey knit is its stretchiness. Unlike woven fabrics, which do not stretch much, jersey knit can expand in all directions. This can make it challenging to work with for beginners, but with the right techniques and equipment, you can achieve professional-looking results.

Choosing the Right Sewing Machine

When sewing with jersey knit fabric, having the right sewing machine can make all the difference. A quality sewing machine with adjustable settings can help you achieve better results when working with this stretchy material.

Look for a sewing machine that has both straight and zigzag stitches as these are essential for sewing jersey knits. Straight stitches are perfect for seams while zigzag stitches are ideal for hemming as they provide extra give to prevent stitches from popping when stretched.

Another important feature to consider is a walking foot or a triple feed mechanism. This helps evenly feed the fabric into the machine without stretching it or causing any puckering. An extended work table or an attachment specifically designed for knits can also be useful in preventing fabric distortion.

Preparing Jersey Knit Fabric Before Sewing

Before starting your project, it is crucial to prepare your jersey knit fabric properly. Pre-washing the fabric is highly recommended as it allows for any shrinkage to occur before cutting and sewing. Jersey knit has a tendency to shrink, especially if it is made from natural fibers like cotton or rayon. Pre-washing also removes any sizing or chemicals from the fabric, making it softer and easier to work with.

After pre-washing, gently tumble dry the fabric or lay it flat to air dry. Do not use high heat or dryer sheets as they can damage the delicate fibers of jersey knit. Once your fabric is fully dried, press it with a warm iron on the lowest setting. This will help remove any wrinkles and prepare the fabric for cutting and sewing.

Marking and Cutting Jersey Knit

One of the most crucial steps when working with jersey knit is marking and cutting the fabric accurately. To ensure that your garment fits well, pay attention to grainline and stretch direction when laying out and cutting your pattern pieces.

Use tailor’s chalk or washable fabric markers to mark your pattern before cutting. When cutting, use ballpoint pins instead of sharp ones as they can cause holes in your knit fabric. It is also advisable to cut one layer of fabric at a time rather than doubling up on layers to ensure precise cutting.

Since jersey knit has a tendency to curl at the edges, using pattern weights instead of pins can also help keep the fabric in place while cutting. A rotary cutter can also be useful in achieving clean and smooth cuts.

Sewing Tips for Jersey Knit

When sewing with jersey knit, always remember that less is more. Avoid using too many pins as they may cause distortion or holes in the delicate fabric. Use a walking foot or feed dog cover if your machine has one to prevent stretching as you sew.

A shorter stitch length (1-2mm) can also help prevent seam puckering on jersey knit. When sewing hems, use a zigzag stitch or a twin needle to allow for stretch and prevent stitches from popping.

Another important tip is to sew jersey knit with a slight tension on the fabric. This means slightly pulling the fabric as it goes through the machine to keep it from stretching too much. However, be careful not to pull too hard as it can cause puckering or distortion in the fabric.

Finishing Touches and Additional Details

Once you have completed your garment, it is essential to finish off all raw edges to prevent fraying. A serger or an overlock machine is perfect for this job as it trims and encases raw edges in one step. If you do not have access to these machines, using a zigzag stitch along the edges can also work.

When adding zippers or buttons on jersey knit garments, reinforce the area with fusible interfacing to prevent stretching and ensure longevity. You can also finish the seams of your knit garment by pressing them open with an iron before topstitching them down.

Maintaining Your Jersey Knit Garments

To keep your jersey knit garments looking new and lasting longer, proper care is essential. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when washing

1. What is the best type of needle to use when sewing with jersey knit fabric?
The best type of needle to use when sewing with jersey knit fabric is either a ballpoint or stretch needle. These needles are designed specifically for stretchy fabrics and will help prevent snagging or skipped stitches.

2. Should I use a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch when sewing jersey knit fabric?
It is recommended to use a zigzag stitch when sewing with jersey knit fabric. This will allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the stitches, creating a more flexible and durable seam.

3. How do I prevent my sewing machine from eating the fabric while sewing jersey knit?
To prevent your sewing machine from eating the fabric while sewing jersey knit, try using a walking foot attachment or place tissue paper under the fabric while stitching. You can also decrease the tension on your machine to allow for smoother feeding of the fabric.

4. Can I use an iron on Jersey Knit Fabric?
Yes, you can use an iron on Jersey Knit Fabric but it is essential to use low heat and steam settings. High heat can cause the fabric to shrink or lose its stretchiness. It is also recommended to test on a small scrap of fabric before ironing your actual project.

5. How do I finish raw edges when working with jersey knit fabric?
There are several ways to finish raw edges when working with jersey knit fabric: You can use pinking shears or an overcast stitch on your sewing machine, serge the edges, or bind them with stretch bias tape. These methods will help prevent fraying and give your project a clean and professional finish.

6. How do I ensure my seams stay flat when sewing with jersey knit fabric?
To ensure your seams stay flat when working with jersey knit fabric, try using lightweight fusible interfacing on the seam allowances. This will help stabilize the fabric and prevent it from curling or puckering. You can also use a walking foot or a knit stitch on your sewing machine to create a flatter and smoother seam.

In conclusion, learning how to sew jersey knit can be a fun and rewarding experience. By following the steps outlined in this guide and practicing patience and precision, you can create beautiful and comfortable garments from this versatile fabric.

One of the main takeaways from this topic is the importance of choosing the right tools and techniques when working with jersey knit. From selecting the right sewing machine to using stretch needles and ballpoint pins, every step in the sewing process can greatly impact the final result.

Additionally, understanding the characteristics of jersey knit and how it differs from other fabrics is crucial for successful sewing. The stretchiness and drape of this material require special handling techniques, such as using a walking foot or stabilizing seams with clear elastic.

Furthermore, it’s essential to pay attention to details like seam allowances, finishing techniques, and pressing to achieve a professional-looking garment. With some practice and attention to detail, you’ll soon be able to create high-quality pieces that are both comfortable and stylish.

Lastly, don’t be afraid to experiment and have fun with your sewing projects! Jersey knit offers endless possibilities for designs, from casual t-shirts to elegant dresses. Remember to always stay true to your own vision and enjoy the process.

In summary, mastering how to sew jersey knit opens up a world

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Jill Nammar
My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.