Unlock the Secrets of Sewing Knit Fabric: A Step-by-Step Guide

Do you have a pile of soft, stretchy knit fabric lying around, waiting for the perfect project but unsure of how to work with it? Fear not, as sewing with knit fabric may seem daunting at first, but with the right techniques and tips, it can be a fun and rewarding experience. In this article, we will explore the ins and outs of sewing with knit fabric and equip you with the knowledge you need to confidently tackle any knit fabric project. Get ready to unleash your creativity and dive into the world of sewing with knit fabric!

Understanding Knit Fabric

Knit fabric is a type of textile that is created by interlocking yarns together in a series of loops. This results in a stretchy and flexible material that is commonly used in clothing, such as T-shirts, sweaters, and leggings.

One of the unique characteristics of knit fabric is its ability to expand and contract without losing its shape. This makes it ideal for clothing that needs to have some give, like activewear or maternity wear. Additionally, knit fabric tends to be more lightweight and breathable compared to other fabrics, which adds to its popularity in the fashion industry.

There are several types of knit fabric, including jersey knit, rib knit, and interlock knit. Each type has its own unique qualities and features. Jersey knit is the most common and is known for its smooth surface and single-knit structure. Rib knit has a more textured appearance due to its vertical ridges created by alternating rows of knit stitches. Interlock knit is similar to rib knit but has an extra set of yarns between the two layers, resulting in a smoother and thicker fabric.

To get the best results when sewing with any type of knit fabric, it’s crucial to understand how it behaves differently than other fabrics.

Preparation Before Sewing

Before you start sewing with any fabric, including knits, it’s important to prepare your materials first. This step will ensure that your finished product turns out well.

Firstly, always wash your fabric before sewing with it. This will not only get rid of any dirt or oils from the manufacturing process but also removes any shrinkage that might occur after washing the finished garment. Knit fabric is known for shrinking when washed for the first time, so pre-washing ensures that your final measurements will be accurate.

Next, make sure you have all the necessary tools on hand. For sewing with knits, you will need a sewing machine with a stretch stitch (such as a zigzag stitch or a triple stretch stitch), a ballpoint needle, and good-quality thread. You can also use a serger to finish the raw edges of your knit fabric, but it’s not necessary.

You can mark your fabric with tailor’s chalk or washable fabric markers, or you can use clips instead of pins to hold your pieces together. Knit fabric is stretchy, so using pins can cause distortion or holes in the fabric. And finally, if you’re using a pattern, make sure to select the appropriate size based on the amount of stretch in your specific knit fabric.

Techniques for Sewing Knit Fabric

When sewing with knit fabric, some specific techniques will help you achieve professional-looking results.

Firstly, to prevent stretching while sewing, it’s essential to stabilize the seams. This is especially important for seams that are under tension or for hemming. You can do this by placing strips of lightweight fusible interfacing on the seam allowance before stitching.

Another technique is to adjust your sewing machine’s settings to accommodate the stretchiness of knit fabrics. Some machines will have a specific “knit” or “stretch” setting that you can use. If not, you can manually adjust the stitch length and tension to allow for more give in the seams.

It’s also crucial to use a ballpoint needle when sewing knits. This type of needle has a rounded tip that slips between the yarns rather than piercing them as a regular needle would do. This prevents skipped stitches and runs in your fabric.

When it comes to hemming knit fabrics, there are two main techniques commonly used: folded hems and band hems. Folded hems involve folding the edge of your fabric twice and then stitching it down with either a straight stitch or twin needle stitching for extra stretch. Band hems involve creating a separate strip of knit fabric and attaching it to the edge of the garment for a clean finish.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Sewing with knit fabric can be tricky, but by avoiding some common mistakes, you can achieve great results every time.

One common mistake when sewing knits is using the wrong type of needle. As mentioned earlier, it’s crucial to use a ballpoint needle when working with knit fabric. If you use a regular needle, it can cause skipped stitches and tears in the fabric.

Another mistake is not using enough pins or clips when sewing pieces together. As knit fabric is stretchy, it’s important to ensure that the pieces stay aligned and don’t move while sewing. By using enough clips or pins, you can prevent distortion or uneven seams.

Not stabilizing your seams is another mistake that can result in an unprofessional finish. Knit fabrics are notorious for stretching during wear and washing, so by stabilizing your seams with fusible interfacing, you can prevent this from happening.

And finally, not practicing on scrap pieces before beginning your project can lead to disaster. Every knit fabric is different and may require slight adjustments in stitches and settings. By practicing on scrap pieces first, you can

Understanding Knit Fabric: A Beginner’s Guide

Knit fabric is a versatile and popular choice for clothing and household items. It is comfortable, stretchy, and easy to work with. If you are new to sewing and want to learn how to sew with knit fabric, you’ve come to the right place. In this guide, we will cover everything you need to know about sewing with knit fabric – from understanding different types of knits to mastering sewing techniques. So, let’s get started!

What is Knit Fabric?

Before we dive into how to sew with knit fabric, it’s important to understand what it is. Knit fabric is a type of textile that is made by interconnecting loops of yarn or thread. This interlocking structure gives it its characteristic stretchiness.

Knit fabric can be made from various materials such as cotton, wool, polyester, or even silk. Each type of material will have its unique traits, which must be taken into consideration when sewing with knit fabrics.

Types of Knit Fabrics

There are many types of knit fabrics available in the market, each with its own set of characteristics that make them suitable for different projects.

Jersey knit is the most common and versatile type of knit fabric. It has a smooth surface on one side and a textured surface on the other side.

Rib knit has raised vertical lines on both sides and is commonly used for cuffs and collars.

Interlock knit has two sets of vertical loops which make it thicker than other knits and suitable for more structured garments.

French terry has a soft looped side on one face and a flat surface on the other face. It can be used for sweatshirts or dresses.

Ponti di Roma (PDR) has a similar structure as interlock but is heavier in weight and mostly used for structured garments.

Sweater knits are thicker and bulkier than other knits, making them perfect for sweaters or cardigans.

With so many knit fabric options available, it’s important to choose the right one for your project. You can always ask for a sample swatch to get a better idea of the fabric before buying in bulk.

Prepping Your Knit Fabric

Before you start sewing, it’s crucial to prep your knit fabric properly. Unlike woven fabrics, knits have a tendency to stretch and can lose their shape easily. To avoid any mishaps, follow these steps:

1. Wash and dry your fabric before cutting. This will prevent any shrinkage later on.

2. Lay out your fabric on a flat surface and smooth out any wrinkles.

3. If you are working with a knit fabric that curls at the edges, use pattern weights or pins to hold it in place while cutting.

4. Use ballpoint or stretch needles for sewing knits. Regular needles can leave holes in the fabric.

Cutting Knit Fabric

Cutting knit fabric is slightly different from cutting woven fabrics. The best way to cut knits is by using a rotary cutter and mat as they minimize shifting and distortion of the fabric. Here are some tips to keep in mind when cutting knit fabrics:

1. Cut against the grain: Knit fabrics have more stretch along the crosswise grain than the lengthwise grain. Cutting against the grain will give your garment more stability.

2. Use pattern weights: To avoid stretching while cutting, use pattern weights instead of pins.

3. Place pattern pieces carefully: When laying out patterns on knit fabrics, make sure you place them according to the grain line indicated on the pattern piece.

4. Cut with a sharp blade: A dull blade can tug and pull at your fabric causing distortion – always use a sharp blade when cutting knits.

Sewing Techniques for Knit Fabric

Sewing techniques for knit fabrics differ from those used for woven fabrics. Here are a few tips to help you get started:

1. Use the right stitches: Straight stitches can break when stretched, so it’s essential to use a stitch that allows some give. The most common stitches used for sewing knits are the straight stretch stitch and the zigzag stitch.

2. Use a walking foot: A walking foot helps feed the fabric evenly, preventing puckering or stretching.

3. Serge or use a mock safety stitch: Serging or using a mock safety stitch will add durability to your garment and prevent raw edges from fraying.

4. Use lightweight interfacing: For areas such as collars or buttonholes, use lightweight interfacing to stabilize the fabric.

Finishing Touches

Once you’ve sewn your knit garment, it’s time to add some finishing touches. Here are some essential tips to keep in mind:

1. Hemming: Knit fabrics can easily unravel, so it’s vital to finish all raw edges properly. One way to do this is by using a twin needle hem or an overlock stitch.

2. Pressing: Unlike woven

1) Can I use regular sewing techniques on knit fabric?
Yes, regular sewing techniques can be used on knit fabric. However, it is important to use a ballpoint or stretch needle and adjust the tension on your sewing machine for better results.

2) Do I need a special sewing machine for knit fabric?
While a serger machine is ideal for sewing knit fabric, it is not necessary. A regular sewing machine with the proper needles and tension adjustments can also produce good results when working with knit fabric.

3) What type of stitches should I use for sewing with knit fabric?
It is best to use a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch when working with knit fabric. These stitches will allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread.

4) How do I prevent my seams from puckering while sewing with knit fabric?
To prevent puckering, use a walking foot or stretch stitch foot and hold both layers of the fabric taut while stitching. Also, try not to pull or push the fabric under the presser foot as this can cause uneven stitching.

5) Can I iron or steam my knit fabric?
It is recommended to avoid using high heat when ironing or steaming knit fabric as it can damage or distort the material. Instead, use a low heat setting and place a pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric to protect it.

6) What are some tips for hemming knit garments?
For hemming knit garments, it is important to stabilize the area first by using fusible interfacing or clear elastic. Then, use a serger or zigzag stitch to prevent the hem from stretching out. It may also help to slightly stretch the hem as you sew for a more even finish.

In conclusion, sewing with knit fabric can be a challenging but rewarding process. It requires proper techniques and tools to ensure the best results. From choosing the right type of knit fabric to using a sewing machine with the appropriate settings, each step is crucial in creating a well-made garment.

Thorough preparation, such as pre-washing and stabilizing the fabric, is essential to avoid any potential issues while sewing. Additionally, utilizing special techniques like using a stretch stitch or serger can help maintain the fabric’s stretchability and prevent unwanted puckering.

Moreover, understanding the characteristics of different types of knit fabrics is crucial in determining the appropriate construction method and ensuring a comfortable fit for the wearer. Experimenting with different stitches and seams can also lead to unique and creative designs.

It is also crucial to pay attention to small details like needle type and thread tension while sewing with knit fabrics. These can greatly affect how the fabric behaves and ultimately impact the final outcome of your project.

While it may take some practice to perfect sewing with knit fabrics, don’t be discouraged by initial challenges. With determination and patience, anyone can learn how to sew knit fabric successfully.

In summary, sewing with knit fabric requires careful attention to detail, proper techniques and tools, as well as a good understanding of different types

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.