Master the Art of Sewing on Jersey Knit: A Step-by-Step Guide

Sewing on jersey knit fabric can seem daunting to some, especially if you’re used to working with more stable fabrics. But with the right techniques and a little bit of patience, sewing on jersey knit can open up a whole new world of possibilities for your wardrobe. Whether you’re looking to create cozy loungewear or stylish and comfortable everyday garments, mastering how to sew on jersey knit is a valuable skill to have in your sewing arsenal. In this article, we’ll share some key tips and tricks to help you confidently master the art of sewing on jersey knit fabric. So grab your needles and thread, and let’s dive into the world of stretchy and versatile jersey knit!

What Is Jersey Knit Fabric?

Jersey knit fabric is a type of knit fabric that is commonly used in clothing, especially for items such as t-shirts, dresses, and skirts. It is made from a combination of cotton, polyester, and spandex yarns that are interlocked together to form a smooth and stretchy material.

The term “jersey” comes from the island of Jersey in the English Channel, where this type of fabric was first produced in the 16th century. In fact, the original jersey fabric was made from wool rather than cotton. Today, jersey knit fabric is widely used due to its softness, breathability, and comfort.

Jersey knit fabric can be identified by its distinctive smooth surface on one side of the fabric and a textured surface on the other side. It is lightweight but also has enough weight to drape nicely without clinging to the body. It also has good stretch and recovery qualities, making it an ideal choice for garments that require ease of movement.

One unique characteristic of jersey knit fabric is its ability to keep you warm in colder temperatures while also being breathable enough to keep you cool in warmer weather. This makes it a popular choice for activewear and loungewear. Additionally, it can be easily dyed and printed on, allowing for a wide range of colors and designs.

The Different Types of Jersey Knit Fabric

There are three main types of jersey knit fabric: single knit or plain jersey, double knit or interlock jersey, and ribbed or 1 x 1 ribbed jersey. Each type has its own distinct features and uses.

Single Knit or Plain Jersey: This is the most basic form of jersey knit fabric and is characterized by its fine single-knit construction. It has a smooth face on one side and a textured back made up of tiny vertical loops. This type of jersey is lightweight and stretchy, making it perfect for t-shirts and other casual garments.

Double Knit or Interlock Jersey: This type of jersey knit fabric is thicker and more stable than single knit. It is created by interlocking two layers of single-knit fabric together, making it less stretchy but more durable. The fabric has the same smooth face on both sides, making it reversible. Double knit jersey is commonly used in activewear, dresses, and skirts.

Ribbed or 1 x 1 Ribbed Jersey: This type of jersey knit fabric has a distinct ribbed texture that is created by alternating rows of knit and purl stitches. It has good stretch and recovery and is commonly used for cuffs, collars, and waistbands in clothing items.

How to Sew on Jersey Knit Fabric

Jersey knit fabric can be intimidating to sew on, especially for beginners. However, with the right techniques and tools, sewing on jersey knit can be a breeze. Here are some steps to follow when sewing on this type of fabric:

1. Use the Right Needle: Jersey knit fabric is delicate compared to other fabrics, so using the right needle is crucial to avoid damaging the material. A ballpoint needle or a stretch needle with a medium point works best for sewing on jersey. These types of needles have rounded tips that slide between the yarns without breaking them.

2. Use Stretchy Thread: Regular thread can easily snap when working with stretchy fabrics like jersey knit. Consider using polyester or nylon thread specifically designed for sewing on knits. These types of threads have more give and can withstand stretching without snapping.

3. Adjust Your Sewing Machine Settings: When sewing on jersey knit, it’s important to adjust your sewing machine settings accordingly to avoid damaging the fabric. Set your machine to a medium stitch length (around 2-3mm) to prevent stretching out the fabric. You can also use a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch to ensure that your stitches have enough give.

4. Use a Walking Foot: A walking foot is a helpful tool when sewing on jersey knit as it evenly feeds the top and bottom layers of fabric through the sewing machine. This helps to prevent any puckering or stretching of the fabric.

5. Practice on Scrap Fabric: If you are new to sewing on jersey knit, it’s always best to practice on scrap pieces of fabric first before moving onto your actual project. This will help you get a feel for the fabric and adjust your sewing technique if needed.

6. Avoid Pinning: Pins can leave holes in delicate knits, so it’s best to avoid using them when working with jersey knit fabric. Instead, opt for clips or basting stitches to hold your fabric in place while you sew.

7. Finish Your Seams: Jersey knit fabric tends to curl at the edges, which can create an unprofessional look and cause your seams to unravel over time. To prevent this, finish your raw edges with a serger or by using a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine.

Tips for Sewing Different Garments with Jersey Knit Fabric

1. T-Shirts

Fabric Selection for Sewing on Jersey Knit

When it comes to sewing on jersey knit, fabric selection is crucial. Jersey knit is a stretchy and lightweight fabric that is commonly used for making t-shirts, dresses, and other garments. It is made from either cotton or a blend of cotton and synthetic fibers, such as polyester or rayon.

When choosing fabric to sew on jersey knit, consider the weight, stretch, and drape of the fabric. It is best to choose a lightweight and stretchy fabric that will complement the properties of jersey knit. Cotton jersey or interlock knit are popular choices for sewing on jersey knit as they have good stretch and drape.

It is also important to consider the color and print of the fabric. Bright colors and bold prints can enhance a plain jersey knit garment. On the other hand, if you want to create a casual look, opt for neutral colors such as black, white or grey.

Before starting your sewing project, make sure to pre-wash your fabric to prevent any shrinkage after sewing.

Prepping Jersey Knit Fabric before Sewing

One of the most important steps in sewing on jersey knit is prepping the fabric before you start sewing. Since it is a lightweight and stretchy material, handling it can be tricky. Follow these steps to prep your jersey knit fabric:

1. Lay out your fabric on a flat surface and make sure it’s free from wrinkles.

2. If the edges of your fabric are frayed or uneven, trim them with sharp scissors to create straight edges.

3. Gently pull on both ends of your fabric to check its stretchiness. This will give you an idea of how much the fabric will stretch when you sew it.

4. Use ballpoint pins instead of regular pins when pinning your pattern onto the jersey knit fabric. Ballpoint pins have rounded tips, which will not damage the fabric while pinning.

5. If you’re using a sewing machine, adjust the tension settings to accommodate the stretchiness of the fabric. A lower tension setting will help prevent puckering and waviness while sewing.

Best Stitching Techniques for Sewing on Jersey Knit

Jersey knit is a delicate and stretchy fabric, and choosing the right stitching technique is crucial to achieving professional-looking results. Here are some techniques that work best for sewing on jersey knit:

1. Zigzag stitch: This is a popular stitch for sewing on jersey knit as it allows for flexibility and prevents pulling or puckering of the fabric. It is also an easy stitch for beginners to learn.

2. Double needle stitch: A double needle creates parallel lines of stitching, giving your garment a neat and professional finish. When using this technique, make sure to use a ballpoint double needle to prevent skipped stitches.

3. Stretch stitch: Some sewing machines have a stretch stitch function specially designed for sewing on knit fabrics. It is an excellent choice for seams that need extra strength but still require some stretching.

4. Overlock/serger machine: If you have access to an overlock or serger machine, it’s perfect for sewing on jersey knit. These machines sew, trim, and seam all at once, creating clean and durable edges on your fabric.

When stitching, remember to use a longer stitch length (usually 3 mm or more) as shorter stitches can cause puckering on knit fabrics.

Sewing Techniques for Different Jersey Knit Garments

Jersey knit is used to make various types of garments, from t-shirts and dresses to skirts and leggings. While the basic stitching techniques remain the same, there are some specific techniques you can use when sewing different garments made with jersey knit:

1. T-shirts: When sewing t-shirts made with jersey knit, it’s essential to stabilize the shoulder seams with clear elastic. This will prevent the fabric from stretching out over time and help the shirt keep its shape.

2. Skirts: To create a smooth and snug fit, use clear elastic along the waistband seam of a jersey knit skirt. This will help prevent the waistband from stretching out and keep it in place.

3. Dresses: When sewing a dress with jersey knit, it’s best to use a combination of techniques such as clear elastic for stabilizing seams, double needles for the hem, and zigzag stitches for seams that require stretch.

4. Leggings: For sewing leggings with jersey knit, use a double needle for the side seams and serger/overlock stitching for inseam and crotch seams. This will give your leggings a professional finish and make them more durable.

Finishing Techniques for Sewing on Jersey Knit

After completing your sewing project with jersey knit, you’ll want to give it a polished look by using appropriate finishing techniques. Here are some common ones:

1. Hemming: When hemming garments made with jersey knit, using a double needle or zigzag stitch is best as these stitches allow for stretch. You can also use fusible

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Question 1: What type of needle should I use when sewing on jersey knit?
Answer: A ballpoint or stretch needle is recommended for sewing on jersey knit fabric, as it is designed to avoid snagging or damaging the fabric while sewing.

Question 2: Do I need a special type of thread for sewing on jersey knit?
Answer: It is recommended to use a polyester or polyester blend thread for sewing on jersey knit fabric, as it provides both strength and stretch. Avoid using 100% cotton thread as it may break under tension.

Question 3: How should I set my sewing machine when working with jersey knit?
Answer: Lowering the tension and using a longer stitch length (around 2.5-3mm) can prevent the fabric from puckering while sewing on jersey knit. Also, using a walking foot can help feed the fabric evenly through the machine.

Question 4: Should I use straight or zigzag stitches when stitching jersey knit?
Answer: It is best to use a narrow zigzag stitch (0.5mm width) when stitching on jersey knit, as it will provide both strength and stretch to the seam. Straight stitches tend to break under tension and may cause the seam to pop.

Question 5: How do I finish raw edges when working with jersey knit?
Answer: Jersey knit is prone to fraying, so it is important to finish raw edges to prevent unraveling. Serge the edges or use a zigzag stitch close to the edge before proceeding with construction.

Question 6: Can I iron jersey knit fabric?
Answer: Yes, but make sure to use low heat and place a pressing cloth between the iron and fabric to avoid scorching or stretching. Alternatively, you can steam press without directly touching the fabric with an iron.

In conclusion, sewing on jersey knit fabric may seem intimidating at first, but with the right tools and techniques, it can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience. Proper preparation, as well as using appropriate needles and stitches, is crucial for a successful sewing project with jersey knit. Additionally, understanding the unique properties of this type of fabric, such as its stretch and drape, can greatly improve the final outcome. With practice and patience, anyone can master the art of sewing on jersey knit and create beautiful garments or accessories. Remember to take your time and carefully follow each step to achieve professional-looking results. And most importantly, have fun and embrace the versatility of jersey knit fabric in your future sewing projects!

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.