Mastering the Art of Sewing Knit Fabric: Tips and Tricks on How to Get It Right

Have you ever gazed longingly at a soft and stretchy knit fabric, wondering how on earth you could sew it into a perfectly fitted piece of clothing? You’re not alone. Sewing with knit fabric can be daunting for even the most experienced seamstress, but fear not – you’ve come to the right place. In this article, we’ll delve into the world of sewing with knit fabric and discover the tips, tricks, and techniques that will have you stitching like a pro in no time. So grab your sewing machine and a cup of coffee, and let’s explore the wonderful world of sewing with knit fabric.

Sewing with Knit Fabric: Tips and Techniques

Knit fabric can be intimidating for many beginners. Its stretchy nature and tendency to curl can make it challenging to sew with. However, with the right techniques and tools, sewing with knit fabric can be a breeze. In this comprehensive guide, we will cover everything you need to know about sewing with knit fabric – from choosing the right needle to finishing seams.

Types of Knit Fabric

Before diving into how to sew knit fabric, let’s first understand the different types of knit fabric. There are three main types of knit fabrics: single knit, double knit, and stretch jersey.

– Single Knit: This is the most common type of knit fabric that has a smooth surface on one side and a textured surface on the other side. It has good drape and is used for making t-shirts, leggings, and dresses.
– Double Knit: This type of fabric is thicker and more stable than single knits as it is made by knitting two layers together. It has less stretch than single knits and is commonly used for making skirts, pants, and jackets.
– Stretch Jersey: This is a lightweight and stretchy fabric often made from cotton or synthetic fibers. It’s commonly used for making activewear, swimwear, and undergarments.

Tips for Sewing Knit Fabric

Here are some essential tips to keep in mind while sewing with knit fabric:

– Choose the Right Needle: Using the correct needle is crucial when sewing with knits. A ballpoint or stretch needle is recommended as they have rounded tips that push through the fibers instead of piercing them.
– Use a Walking Foot: A walking foot evenly feeds your fabric through the machine without stretching it, making it an excellent tool for sewing knits.
– Adjust Your Tension: Knit fabric is stretchy, so it’s important to adjust your machine’s tension to prevent puckering or stretched stitches. Test on a scrap piece of fabric first before starting on your project.
– Use a Narrow Zigzag Stitch: A narrow zigzag stitch allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the stitches. Set your stitch length between 1-2mm and width between 1-2.5mm.
– Use Washaway Stabilizer: If you’re using a lightweight or slippery knit, place washway stabilizer under the fabric while sewing to prevent it from slipping and puckering.

Sewing Techniques for Knit Fabric

Now that we have covered some essential tips let’s dive into some sewing techniques for knit fabric.

– Cutting the Fabric: When cutting knit fabric, always use sharp scissors to ensure clean cuts without snagging or pulling on the fabric. It’s also recommended to use pattern weights instead of pins as they can leave holes and distort the fabric.
– Sewing Seams: Sewing seams in knit fabric can be challenging because of its stretchiness. Start by pinning or using clips along the seamline to prevent shifting. Sew with a narrow zigzag stitch, stretching the fabric slightly as you go. For a more professional finish, use a serger or overlocker.
– Finishing Seams: Standard seam finishes like zigzag stitches or overcastting can look bulky on knit fabrics. Instead, opt for flat-felled seams or mock serged seams for a clean and neat finish.
– Hemming Knit Fabric: To hem knit fabric, use a twin needle to create two parallel rows of straight stitches on the right side of your garment while catching the raw edge on the wrong side. This creates a stretchy and professional-looking hem. Alternatively, you can use a coverstitch machine if you have one.
– Adding Elastic: If your knit project requires elastic, use clear or cotton elastic instead of traditional elastic as it has more stretch and is less likely to snap or break.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Despite following all the tips and techniques, you may still encounter some issues while sewing with knit fabric. Here are some common issues and how to troubleshoot them:

– Puckering: Puckering occurs when the fabric is stretched while being sewn. Adjust your tension settings and try using a tissue paper or stabilizer underneath the fabric while sewing.
– Skipping Stitches: Skipping stitches can happen when using the wrong needle or not using enough tension. Try using a ballpoint or stretch needle and double-check your tension settings.
– Fabric Curling: Sometimes, knit fabrics tend to curl at the edges, making it challenging to sew straight seams. Try cutting the fabric with a rotary cutter instead of scissors as it helps keep the edges straight.
– Bunching Up at Seams: If your fabric bunches up at

Sewing knit fabric can seem intimidating for beginners, but with the right techniques and tools, it can be an enjoyable and satisfying experience. Knit fabrics are versatile and popular due to their stretch and comfort, making them a go-to choice for many clothing items such as t-shirts, leggings, and dresses. In this comprehensive guide, we will cover everything you need to know about sewing knit fabric, from choosing the right materials to mastering various stitches and finishing techniques. So whether you’re brand new to sewing or looking to expand your skills, read on to learn how to sew with knit fabric like a pro.

Understanding Knit Fabrics

Before diving into the sewing process, it’s essential to understand what makes knit fabrics unique. Unlike woven fabrics that are made by weaving vertical and horizontal yarns together, knits have interlocking loops of yarn that give them their stretch. Knit fabrics come in a variety of types such as jersey, interlock, rib knits, sweater knits, and more. Each type has its characteristics that affect how they feel and behave when being sewn. For instance, jersey knits are smooth and have excellent stretch recovery while rib knits have ridges that give them more texture.

Choosing the Right Materials

When it comes to sewing with knit fabric, choosing the right materials is crucial. Using the wrong materials can result in a poorly made garment that won’t last long or fit correctly. Here’s a breakdown of the materials you’ll need when sewing with knit fabric:

Fabric: As mentioned earlier, there are several types of knit fabric available in stores. When selecting your fabric, consider the garment’s purpose and your preference for stretchiness. Also, keep in mind that some varieties of knit fabrics may require special needles or stitches.

Threads: For sewing knit fabric, polyester or polyester-wrapped cotton threads are highly recommended. They have the right amount of stretch and strength to withstand the pressure of stretchy fabrics.

Needles: Regular sewing machine needles can work on most knit fabrics, but ballpoint or stretch needles are better choices as they’re specially designed for knit fabric. They have rounded points that prevent them from snagging and piercing through the fabric’s loops.

Elastic: Depending on your project, you may need elastic to add structure and shape to your garment. Elastic comes in various widths and finishes, such as clear or ribbed.

Cutting and Preparing Knit Fabric

Before cutting your fabric, it’s crucial to prewash and dry it to avoid any shrinkage after the garment is completed. Knit fabrics tend to shrink more than woven fabrics, so be sure to wash them in warm water and tumble dry on low heat. Once prewashed, avoid ironing your knit fabric unless necessary; instead, use a fabric steamer.

When laying out your pattern pieces on the fabric, ensure that the direction of the stretch aligns with the direction indicated on the pattern. This will ensure that your garment will fit comfortably without losing its shape.

Sewing Techniques

Now that you have all your materials ready let’s get started with sewing! Here are some essential techniques for sewing with knit fabric:

Seam Finishing: One of the best ways to finish a seam on knit fabrics is by using a serger. Sergers create a professional-looking finish by trimming excess seam allowance and locking stitches in one step. If you don’t have a serger, consider using a narrow zigzag stitch or overlock stitch on your regular sewing machine.

Hemming: Unlike woven fabrics where you can fold hems under twice for a neat finish, knit fabrics require different methods for hemming. For instance, rolled hems work well for lighter weight knits, while twin needles create a double-row of stitches that prevent stretching on heavier fabrics.

Stitches: When it comes to stitches, there are endless possibilities for sewing with knit fabric. The most commonly used are the straight stitch, zigzag stitch, and stretch stitch. Straight stitches are great for seams on stable knits, whereas zigzag or stretch stitches work best on stretchier fabrics.

Tips and Tricks for Sewing Knit Fabric

Now that you have the basics down let’s go over some tips and tricks that will make sewing knit fabric easier:

– Use your fingers to guide the fabric rather than pulling or pushing it through the machine.
– Always start and end sewing a seam with backstitching to secure the threads.
– Use tissue paper or stabilizer under thin or slippery knit fabrics to prevent them from getting sucked into the machine.
– If your machine has adjustable presser foot pressure, reduce it when sewing knits to avoid distortion.
– Test your stitches on scrap fabric before starting on your project to ensure they’re not too tight or too loose.
– Keep your sewing area clean;

Q: What types of stitches should I use when sewing knit fabric?
A: The two recommended stitches for sewing knit fabric are the straight stitch and the zigzag stitch.

Q: Which type of needle should I use when sewing knit fabric?
A: Use a ball-point or stretch needle when sewing knit fabric to prevent snagging or damaging the material.

Q: How should I prepare my sewing machine for sewing knit fabric?
A: To prepare your sewing machine, lower the machine’s tension setting slightly and test it on a scrap piece of fabric to ensure it does not pucker or stretch the material.

Q: Can I use my regular thread when sewing knit fabric?
A: It is recommended to use polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester thread when sewing knit fabrics as they have some elasticity and will not break easily.

Q: How do I prevent my knit fabric from stretching while sewing?
A: To prevent stretching, use your hands to gently guide the material through the machine instead of pulling or pushing it. You can also place tissue paper under the fabric while stitching to provide stability.

Q: Do I need a special presser foot for sewing knit fabrics?
A: A walking foot or even feed foot is recommended for sewing knits to prevent uneven feeding and puckering. However, if you do not have one, you can use a straight stitch foot with some tissue paper underneath to achieve similar results.

In conclusion, sewing knit fabric can be a daunting task for beginners, but with the right techniques and tools, it can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience. From choosing the right fabric and needles to understanding the different stitches and techniques, there are several key factors to keep in mind when working with knit fabrics.

First and foremost, selecting the appropriate type of knit fabric is crucial to ensure a successful project. Understanding the stretch and weight of the fabric will help determine the best needle size and stitch setting for your sewing machine. It is also important to practice on scrap pieces before sewing your final project.

When it comes to sewing techniques, using a stretch stitch or a small zigzag stitch is recommended to prevent the fabric from tearing or unraveling. Using a walking foot or ballpoint needles can also aid in achieving smooth and even stitches on knit fabrics.

Additionally, proper handling and cutting techniques are essential in preventing stretching or distorting of the fabric. Using pattern weights instead of pins and cutting along the grainline can help maintain the integrity of knit fabrics while cutting.

Lastly, finishing techniques such as serging or using a double needle can add durability to your seam finishes. And don’t forget to always press your seams using low heat settings or placing a cloth between the iron and fabric to avoid

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.