Unraveling the Secret to Perfectly Hemming a Knit Dress

Ah, the frustration of finding the perfect knit dress, only to realize it is either too long or too loose in all the wrong places. But fear not, because mastering the art of hemming can save you from this wardrobe woe. Hemming a knit dress may seem intimidating, but with a few simple techniques and tips, you can easily achieve a perfect fit for your body. Whether it’s an old dress that needs some sprucing up or a new purchase that needs alterations, this article will guide you on how to hem a knit dress like a pro. So say goodbye to ill-fitting dresses and hello to a custom fit that flatters your figure. Let’s dive into the world of hemming and discover how to transform any knit dress into your perfect fit.

When it comes to styling your wardrobe, nothing beats the comfort and versatility of a knitted dress. From casual days to formal events, a knit dress can effortlessly transition from day to night. However, there are occasions when you may need to hem your knit dress to get that perfect fit. Hemming a knit dress can be intimidating for many as the fabric is delicate and prone to unraveling. But fear not, in this guide we will walk you through all the steps on how to hem a knit dress like a pro.

Understanding Knitted Fabrics

To successfully hem any garment, it is essential to understand the type of fabric you are working with. Knitted fabrics have loops that interlock with each other making the material stretchy and flexible. They can be made from various materials such as wool, cotton, polyester, or a blend of these fibers. The stretch of the fabric depends on the type of stitch used and its tension. Common types of stitches used in knitting are stockinette stitch (smooth on one side and ridged on the other), rib stitch (vertical columns of knits and purls), jersey stitch (knit stitches on both sides), and garter stitch (all knit stitches). It is essential to identify the type of knitting stitch as it will help determine how much stretch your fabric has and what technique you should use for hemming.

Gather Your Supplies

Before you begin hemming your knit dress, make sure you have all the necessary supplies at hand. This will save you time and avoid disruptions during your sewing process. Here is a list of items you will need:
1) Measuring tape
2) Fabric scissors
3) Sewing machine or needle and thread
4) Marking tool (fabric pen or chalk)
5) Seam ripper (in case of any mistakes)
6) Pins
7) Iron
8) Twin needles (optional)
Make sure to use matching thread and needles suitable for knitted fabrics. It is recommended to use a ballpoint needle as it glides between the fabric fibers without breaking or damaging them. Additionally, a walking foot can also be helpful in preventing the fabric from stretching or shifting while sewing.

Preparation

Start by laying your knit dress on a flat surface and smooth out any wrinkles. If your dress is brand new, it is best to wash and dry it beforehand as knitted fabrics tend to shrink after the first wash. Use an iron on low heat to remove any creases or wrinkles without damaging the fibers. Once your dress is ready, it’s time to measure and mark where you want to make your hem.

Measuring and Marking

Using a measuring tape, measure the desired length you want for your dress. If you are unsure how much length to take off, try on the dress and pin up the hem at different lengths until you find the perfect fit. Remember, you can always trim excess fabric later if needed.
Once you have decided on the length, carefully mark it with a fabric pen or chalk all around the dress using a ruler or straight edge for accuracy.
If you are using a sewing machine, now is the time to set it up. You can thread two spools of thread into your machine if you have twin needles. This will create two parallel lines of stitching on the top side of your hem, giving it a professional finish.

Sewing Techniques

There are various ways to sew hems on knitted fabrics; here we will discuss three different techniques:
1) Zigzag Stitch – This technique works well for lighter knitted fabrics such as cotton or rayon blends that have medium stretch and weight.
Start by placing your knit dress under the needle with the right side facing up. Then, using a zigzag stitch, sew along the marked hemline. Make sure not to stretch the fabric while sewing as it can result in a wavy or uneven hem.
2) Twin Needle Hem – As mentioned earlier, using a twin needle on your sewing machine can give your hem a neat and professional finish.
Thread one needle with the color of thread that matches your dress and the other with a contrasting color for added style. Sew along the marked hemline, making sure both needles are stitching parallel lines.
3) Coverstitch Hem – This method is ideal for thicker knitted fabrics like wool or polyester blends with heavy-weight and high stretch.
Start by trimming off about 1/4 inch of excess fabric from the marked hemline. Then place your dress under the presser foot and, using a coverstitch machine, sew along the edge of the folded hem to create parallel lines of stitching.

Finishing Touches

After you have completed sewing your hem, it’s time for some finishing touches to make it look polished and professional. Before trimming any excess fabric or threads, try on your dress to ensure you are happy with the length and fit. Once satisfied, trim off any extra length or threads

What is Hemming a Knit Dress?

Hemming is the process of finishing the edge of a piece of fabric to prevent it from unraveling and to give it a polished look. A knit dress is made from stretchy and flexible fabric, which makes hemming a bit more challenging compared to other fabrics. However, with the right techniques and tools, hemming a knit dress can be achieved easily.

When it comes to hemming a knit dress, there are two main types of hems: folded hem and raw edge hem. A folded hem involves folding the edge of the fabric twice towards the inside and sewing it in place. On the other hand, a raw edge hem is when you leave the fabric’s edge unfinished for a more casual look.

The Tools You’ll Need

To successfully hem your knit dress, you’ll need some basic tools like sharp scissors or rotary cutter, sewing pins or clips, ruler or measuring tape, marking chalk or washable marker, and a sewing machine with ballpoint or stretch needle. You may also need an iron and ironing board to press your seams.

Preparation Before Hemming

Before starting on your hemming project, it’s important to prepare your fabric properly. First, make sure your fabric is clean and free from any stains. If needed, pre-wash your fabric according to its care instructions.

Next, lay your fabric flat on a cutting table or surface. Smooth out any wrinkles or creases by gently pulling on the fabric’s edges. This step will help ensure that your hems are even when you start sewing.

Techniques for Folded Hem

To create a folded hem on your knit dress, follow these simple steps:

1. Measure the desired length for your finished garment.
2. Add 1 inch to this measurement for seam allowance.
3. Mark this measurement all around the edge of your fabric using a ruler and marking chalk or washable marker.
4. Fold the fabric’s edge towards the inside, following the marked line.
5. Pin or clip in place, making sure to stretch the fabric slightly as you go to accommodate its stretchiness.
6. Using a stretch stitch on your sewing machine, sew along the folded edge about ⅜ inch from the bottom.
7. Once you have completed sewing all around, trim off any excess fabric and press your hem using a medium heat setting on your iron.

Techniques for Raw Edge Hem

A raw edge hem is more suitable for casual knit dresses or if you want to add some texture or dimension to your garment. To create a raw edge hem, follow these steps:

1. Measure and mark your desired length for your finished garment as described above.
2. Using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter, cut all around the marked line.
3. If needed, use an overlock stitch or serger to finish the raw edges of your fabric.
4. Press the seam allowance towards the inside by ½ inch using an iron.
5. Using a medium heat setting on your iron, press along the folded edge to help maintain its shape.
6. With a stretch stitch on your sewing machine, sew along the folded edge about ¼ inch from the bottom.
7. Trim off any excess threads and press once more to give it a clean finish.

Troubleshooting Tips

Hemming knit dresses can be tricky at times, but here are some troubleshooting tips that can help:

– If you experience skipped stitches while hemming, try switching to a ballpoint needle specifically designed for knit fabrics.

– When sewing with knits, always use a zigzag stitch instead of straight stitches to allow more stretch in order not to break the stitches while wearing your garment.

– If your sewing machine does not have a stretch stitch option, you can use a narrow and short zigzag stitch instead.

Hemming a Knit Dress with a Lining

Some knit dresses also come with a lining to provide extra coverage or structure. To hem a knit dress with lining, simply follow the same techniques mentioned above, but make sure to sew the lining separately before attaching it to the dress’s main fabric. This way, you can easily hem the lining and main fabric separately and then attach them together using a simple slip stitch.

Hemming a knit dress may seem daunting at first, but with the right techniques and tools, it can be done flawlessly. Whether you opt for a folded hem or raw edge hem, make sure to prepare your fabric properly and take your time to ensure neat and even hems. With practice, you’ll become more confident in hemming all types of knit garments, making them look polished and professional. So go ahead and give it a try to elevate your knit dress game!

Q: What materials do I need to hem a knit dress?
A: You will need a sewing machine, ballpoint or stretch needle, thread, scissors, pins, measuring tape, and an iron.

Q: Can I hand-sew the hem on a knit dress?
A: Yes, you can hand-sew the hem on a knit dress if you are experienced with sewing knits. However, using a sewing machine is recommended for best results.

Q: How do I determine the length of the dress before hemming?
A: Measure from the bottom edge of the dress to where you want the finished hem to fall. Keep in mind that knit fabrics tend to stretch when worn, so it’s recommended to add an extra inch or two to ensure your desired length.

Q: Do I need to use a different type of thread when hemming a knit fabric?
A: Yes, it is best to use polyester thread as it has some stretch and won’t break when pulled. Avoid using cotton thread as it can break easily on knits.

Q: What is the best stitch to use when hemming a knit dress?
A: A twin needle or zigzag stitch is ideal for hemming knit dresses as they allow for stretch and won’t create puckered or tight areas.

Q: How do I prevent my knit fabric from getting stretched while hemming?
A: Use pins sparingly and only in areas that are not stretched. It’s also helpful to hold both sides of the fabric taut while sewing. Ironing the fabric before sewing can also help prevent stretching.

In conclusion, hemming a knit dress may seem like a daunting task, but with the right technique and tools, it can be easily accomplished. It is important to prepare and properly measure the dress before beginning the hemming process, and to choose the appropriate method based on the fabric type and personal preference.

Some key takeaways to keep in mind when hemming a knit dress are: always use a stretch needle and stitch to prevent skipped or broken stitches, test any new techniques on scrap fabric first, and make sure to allow for some extra stretch in the hemline to avoid puckering or distortion.

Additionally, understanding how different types of knitted fabrics behave and how to handle them during the sewing process can greatly impact the end result. By taking precautions such as stabilizing the fabric with fusible interfacing or using a walking foot when sewing, you can ensure a professional-looking finish.

Lastly, remember that practice makes perfect. Hemming a knit dress may take some trial and error at first, but as you become more familiar with the techniques and materials involved, you will be able to achieve beautiful results every time. So don’t be discouraged if your first attempt isn’t perfect – keep practicing and you will become an expert in no time.

In summary, learning how to properly

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Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.