How to Join New Yarn at the Beginning of a Row

One stitch worked with both the old and new yarn makes a tidy, secure double-stitch join at the beginning of a knitted row. You can also simply begin with the new yarn and weave in both tails afterward; the best choice depends on whether you are changing colors, joining the same yarn, or working beside a visible edge. Starting at a row boundary keeps the join easier to hide and finish neatly.

Why the Beginning of a Row Is the Best Place to Join Yarn

A yarn join creates two loose ends that must be secured. Putting that join at the start of a row keeps those ends together at an edge rather than leaving them in the middle of your fabric.

A double-stitch join at the beginning of a row reinforces the new yarn without tying a knot into the fabric. This is especially useful for blankets, scarves, dishcloths, and other projects with repeated rows.

A knot can work loose, feel bulky, or show on the right side.

The Easiest Way to Add New Yarn in Knitting

Choose the join that suits the row edge and the yarn you are using.

Your Situation	Best Join	What You Do
Same-color yarn, ordinary edge	Simple woven-tail join	Start knitting with the new yarn, then weave in both tails.
New color for a stripe	Double-stitch join	Work one stitch with both yarns, then continue with the new color.
Same-color yarn beside a raw, visible edge	Double stitch just inside the edge	Work the first stitches with the old yarn, then make the double stitch in the second or third stitch.
Edge will be covered by a seam, button band, or picked-up border	Double stitch at the edge	Make the first stitch with both yarns; the edge will later be hidden.

For a same-color join beside a raw edge, placing the join just inside the edge can keep the edge line more even while still keeping the ends close to the row start.

Step 1: Stop at a Row Boundary With Tails to Weave

When you see that the old ball is running low, finish the current row rather than knitting until there is almost nothing left. Leave about 6 inches of the old yarn for weaving in.

Pull out about 6 inches from the new ball as well. Keep both tails on the wrong side of the work or behind the needle so you do not accidentally knit a tail into the fabric.

If you are removing a factory knot from the yarn, cut it out and treat the two cut ends as separate tails to weave in.

Step 2: Put the New Yarn in Position

Turn your work as usual so you are ready to begin the next row.

For a simple woven-tail join, place the new yarn behind the needle if the next stitch is a knit stitch, or in front if the next stitch is a purl stitch. Hold the working yarn gently and leave the tail hanging free.

For a double-stitch join, hold the old working yarn and the new yarn together as though they were one strand. Keep their two tails loose rather than pulling them tight.

Step 3: Work the First Stitch or the Chosen Join Stitch

For the simple woven-tail join:

Insert the right needle into the first stitch.
Work that stitch with the new yarn only.
Continue in pattern with the new yarn.

This method is easy, flexible, and nearly invisible after the ends are woven in.

For the double-stitch join:

Insert the right needle into the first stitch, or into the second or third stitch if you are keeping a raw edge especially neat.
Work 1 stitch with both the old and new yarn held together.
Drop the old yarn and continue the row with the new yarn alone.

The doubled stitch counts as one stitch, not two. It reinforces the point where the new yarn begins without a knot.

Step 4: Treat the Double Stitch as One Stitch on the Return Row

When you reach the doubled stitch on the next row, put your needle through both loops together and work them as one stitch.

Do not split the two loops and work them separately. Doing so adds an extra stitch and changes the stitch count of the row.

Check the join after working a few stitches. The fabric should lie flat, the edge should not pucker, and the new yarn should not pull the old row out of shape.

Step 5: Weave In Both Tails and Trim Them

After you have worked a few more inches and are confident you will not need to unravel the join, weave in the tails.

Thread one tail onto a yarn needle.
On the wrong side, follow the path of nearby stitches or weave back and forth through the backs of several stitches.
Change direction once or twice so the tail is less likely to slip out.
Repeat with the other tail, weaving it separately.
Gently stretch the fabric to make sure the join still lies flat.
Trim the tail close to the fabric without cutting a stitch.

Woven ends should stay secure through use and washing without appearing on the front of the project.

Joining New Yarn in Other Knitting Situations

Sometimes you cannot wait for the beginning of a row. These methods keep the project moving while still giving you a finishable join.

Reaching the End of a Row With Too Little Yarn

If the old yarn will not comfortably complete another row, finish the row and leave its tail. Tie the new yarn loosely around the old yarn at the row edge, then begin the next row with the new yarn.

That knot is temporary. At finishing, untie it and weave in the old and new tails separately. The woven tails secure the join; the knot should not remain inside the finished item.

Running Out in the Middle of a Row With Thin Yarn

With thinner yarn, begin the overlap when about 4 inches of the old yarn remain. Hold the new yarn together with the old yarn and work both strands until the old yarn runs out.

On the following row, work each doubled stitch as one stitch. This avoids the need to untwist and rejoin individual plies, which can be unnecessary with thin yarn.

The overlap creates a slightly thicker area, so use it where a small amount of extra bulk will not be noticeable. It is often less visible in garter stitch, textured stitches, or areas away from a fitted edge.

Splicing Plied Yarn

For a plied yarn that can handle a thicker overlap, untwist about 4 inches of the old yarn and 4 inches of the new yarn. Pair the separated plies together, then twist them back into a single strand.

Knit through the doubled, retwisted area until you are working entirely with the new yarn. Check that no loose ply ends are poking out on the right side, then weave in any remaining loose ends on the wrong side.

Changing Yarn at the Beginning of a Crochet Row

Crochet joins work a little differently because there is usually one live loop on the hook. For a clean color stripe, change to the new yarn during the last pull-through of the previous row whenever possible.

Joining a New Crochet Color for a Wide Stripe

Work the final stitch of the old-color row until only the last yarn-over and pull-through remain.
Cut the old color, leaving a 6-inch tail.
Yarn over with the new color and pull it through the loops on the hook to finish that last stitch.
Turn the work and make the turning chain or first stitch required by your pattern with the new color.
Keep a tail from the new color for weaving in.
Weave the old-color tail through stitches of the old color on the wrong side, then weave the new-color tail through stitches of the new color.

Finishing the final pull-through with the new color makes the next row begin cleanly in that color.

Adding New Crochet Yarn at the First Stitch

If you have already ended the old yarn or are beginning with a fresh strand, insert the hook into the first stitch where the pattern tells you to work. Make a loop with the new yarn, pull it through the stitch, and complete the required stitch or turning chain.

Hold the new tail behind the work as you begin. Weave it into the backs of nearby stitches after the row is stable, keeping it within stitches of the same color when possible.

How to Check That the Join Is Secure

Before moving on, inspect the join from both sides of the fabric.

The stitch count is unchanged.
A double stitch is worked as one stitch on the next row.
The edge is straight rather than pulled inward or flared outward.
Both tails are woven independently through the wrong side.
No tail is visible on the right side after the fabric is gently stretched.

Planning yarn changes before a row begins gives you the cleanest result.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is one stitch enough for a double-stitch yarn join?

Yes, 1 stitch is usually enough for a double-stitch join. Work that stitch with both yarns held together, then continue with the new yarn alone and work the doubled loops as one stitch on the next row. More doubled stitches can add bulk, especially in medium or thick yarn.

Is a yarn over the same as adding new yarn?

No. A yarn over is a deliberate wrap of the working yarn around the needle that creates an extra stitch or eyelet. Adding new yarn means introducing a new ball, skein, or color to replace the old working yarn.

How do I slip one with yarn in front at the beginning of a row?

Bring the working yarn to the front of the work, as if you were going to purl. Insert the right needle into the first stitch purlwise and move that stitch from the left needle to the right needle without knitting it. Keep the yarn in front until the pattern tells you to move it.

Can I use a double-stitch join in purl stitch or a textured pattern?

Yes, you can use a double-stitch join in a purl stitch or a textured pattern. Work the doubled stitch as one stitch on the next row. Work the chosen stitch in pattern with both yarns held together for 1 stitch, then continue with the new yarn. On the next row, work the two loops from that doubled stitch together as one, whether the pattern calls for a knit, purl, or textured stitch.

How do I add new yarn in the middle of a crochet row?

Finish the current crochet stitch to a stable point, then use the new yarn for the final pull-through of that stitch. Continue the row with the new yarn and leave tails to weave into the wrong side of nearby stitches. Keep the tension even as you continue the row with the new yarn.