How to Sew a Hood That Fits Your Garment

To sew a hood, cut two mirror-image side pieces, sew their curved top-and-back edges together, finish the face opening, and attach the lower edge to your garment’s neckline. For a lined hood, make a second hood and join the two around the face opening before attaching them. The key to a comfortable fit is matching the hood’s stitching line, not just its cut edge, to the neckline.

How a Basic Hood Is Made

A basic two-piece hood has a center seam running from the forehead, over the crown, and down the back of the head. Its other edges form the face opening and the neckline.

A lined version uses two outer pieces and two lining pieces. The lining encloses the face-opening seam and hides the inside of the crown seam, making this a useful first hood project.

You’ll need:

Your garment or its sewing pattern
A well-fitting hood to trace, or the wearer’s measurements
Outer fabric and, for a lined hood, compatible lining fabric
Pattern paper, pencil, ruler, and flexible measuring tape
Fabric scissors, pins or clips, thread, and a sewing machine
An iron and, when altering an existing garment, a seam ripper

Choose fabric that suits the garment’s weight and stretch. A heavy hood can pull a lightweight neckline backward. A nonstretch lining can also restrict a stretchy hood, so use a lining with compatible stretch when making a knit version.

Right sides together means the fabric’s finished faces touch. The seam allowance is the fabric between the stitching line and the cut edge.

How to Sew and Attach a Lined Hood

Choose the construction that suits your fabric before making the pattern.

Hood Construction	Best Use	Face-Opening Finish
Lined two-piece hood	For a clean finish with hidden interior seams	Outer hood sewn to lining
Unlined knit hood	T-shirts	Folded knit band
Three-piece hood	For more shaped volume over the head	Binding, facing, or lining

The following sequence makes a lined two-piece hood, with either a traced or a drafted starting pattern.

Step 1: Prepare and Measure the Garment Neckline

Establish the attachment seam. On a garment being sewn from a pattern, join the shoulder seams first. On an existing garment, decide whether the hood will replace a collar or neckband, or sit within an existing neckline finish. If removing a collar or band, unpick its stitching rather than cutting away the neckline fabric.
Mark the alignment points. Mark center back, both shoulder seams, and the front attachment endpoints. On a pullover, mark center front.
Measure along the intended stitching line. Do not measure only the raw edge: its length can differ from the seam line on a curve.
Record the measurements needed for a custom draft: – Front stitching distance: From the shoulder seam to the front attachment endpoint on one side. – Back stitching line: From the shoulder seam to center back on one side. – Center depth: The vertical drop from the neck end of the shoulder seam to the center-front neckline stitching line, with the garment laid flat.

For a symmetrical neckline, the full attachment length is twice the front distance plus twice the back distance. For example, a front distance of 10 1/8 inches and a back distance of 4 1/2 inches give a full neckline stitching length of 29 1/4 inches.

If there is no base garment yet, measure the wearer’s neck circumference and add at least 3–4 inches (7.6–10 cm) for an initial full neckline estimate. Half of that total gives a starting lower-edge length for each hood side. This is a mock-up measurement, not a substitute for fitting the hood to the eventual garment.

Step 2: Trace or Draw the Hood Outline

Choose one starting method. Leave seam allowances off the first drawing so you can adjust the actual seam lines.

Trace an existing hood

Fold a comfortable hood in half along its center seam and lay it in side profile on pattern paper.
Smooth it without stretching or flattening away its shaping.
Trace the face opening, top-and-back curve, and lower attachment line. At sewn edges, identify the stitching line rather than tracing the outside of a bulky seam.
Mark the forehead end, center-back neck point, and any visible shoulder alignment marks.

A hood from a similar garment makes the best starting shape. Tracing a roomy sweatshirt hood does not automatically produce a good fit for a close-necked coat.

Draw a simple starting outline

Draw a provisional lower edge using half the garment’s full neckline stitching length.
Raise the center-back end 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the front end to start accommodating the garment’s higher back neckline. This is a rough drafting offset; the garment’s measured center depth will determine the final lower-edge shape.
Draw the face opening upward from the front end. A common starting length is around 2 inches (5 cm) longer than the bottom edge for a child-sized hood, or 3–5 inches (7.6–12.5 cm) longer for an adult hood. Choose the wearer’s size category, then confirm the height on the wearer rather than treating these proportions as a fitted pattern.
Sketch a top edge extending backward and a back edge rising from the rear neckline point.
Round the sharp top-back corner, beginning the curve within 3 inches (7.6 cm) of the intersection.

This outline establishes the silhouette. The neckline and headroom still need fitting.

Step 3: Fit the Pattern to the Neckline and Head

Establish the shoulder reference. Label the shoulder position on the hood’s lower stitching line as point 0. Place point 1 toward center back, one back-stitching-line distance from it. Preserve this shoulder reference when reshaping the pattern; matching the front and back neckline sections separately is more reliable than matching only their combined length.
Shape the front neckline section. Position the front attachment point using the garment’s measured center depth below point 0. Draw a smooth lower curve from the shoulder to that point, adjusting it until its stitching length equals the front stitching distance.
Set the hood height. Draw a vertical reference labeled line 0–2 through the shoulder point. Measure upward from point 0 by the wearer’s head/neck height, plus at least 1 inch (2.5 cm). Take that wearer measurement from the neck–shoulder junction to crown level. This is starting headroom; a roomier design needs more height, which also allows more fabric to settle around the shoulders.
Refine the crown and face opening. Blend the top-and-back curve into the height reference. Check that the face edge will sit where you want it rather than covering the eyes or pulling behind the forehead.
Make any cowl adjustment now. For a softer, draped back, lower the center-back neckline point an inch or so (about 2.5 cm). Redraw the curve, then check that its distance from point 0 still equals the back stitching line. The drop changes the shape, not the required attachment length.
Walk the seam lines. Use a tape measure on edge, or compare the paper seam lines a section at a time. Match center back to shoulder and shoulder to front separately. Include any deliberately drafted center-front overlap in addition to the garment’s neckline length.
Add seam allowances. For this traced two-piece construction, use 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) around the seam lines, including the face opening that will join to the lining. This is a common allowance, not a universal one; an existing pattern’s cutting and sewing instructions determine its allowance.

Before cutting your good fabric, make a test hood in fabric with similar stretch and drape. Sew its center seam, temporarily turn the face edge inward, and baste it to the garment. Check it with the hood both up and down, then transfer adjustments to the paper pattern.

Step 4: Cut the Outer Hood and Lining

Cut two mirrored outer pieces and two mirrored lining pieces. Cutting through fabric folded right sides together produces a mirrored pair.
Keep the grain consistent with the garment or pattern. With knit fabric, preserve the intended direction of stretch.
Transfer center back, shoulder marks, front endpoints, and any overlap marks to every relevant piece. Mark within the seam allowance rather than making deep cuts.
Add optional embroidery to the outer pieces while they are flat. Keep dense stitching away from seam allowances and the face-opening fold.

The outer hood and lining should have matching seam-line shapes. Do not make the lining smaller by guesswork; that can pull the face opening inward.

Step 5: Sew the Hood and Finish the Face Opening

Place the outer pieces right sides together. Sew the curved top-and-back seam with a 1/2-inch allowance, leaving the face opening and lower edge open.
Sew the lining’s curved seam in the same way.
Press the seams as the fabric allows. On woven fabric, clip or notch curved allowances only where needed to release pulling or bulk, without cutting the stitching.
Turn one hood right side out and leave the other wrong side out. Nest them so their right sides touch.
Match the crown seams and face-opening edges. Pin or clip, then sew around the face opening with a 1/2-inch allowance. Keep the entire lower edge open.
Trim bulky seam allowances where necessary, turn the hood right side out through the bottom, and press the opening.
If desired, topstitch around the face opening to keep the lining from rolling outward.
Align the outer and lining lower edges and baste them together inside the seam allowance.

Use a straight stitch for stable woven fabric. For a stretchy hood, use a stretch-compatible stitch or serger seam, testing it on scraps to confirm that it stretches without breaking or becoming wavy.

Step 6: Attach the Hood and Finish the Neckline Seam

Match the shoulder marks as well as center back and the front ends to keep the hood from shifting around the neckline.

Place the hood and garment right sides together at the neckline. The hood hangs over the garment during sewing; it will turn upward afterward.
Match the hood’s center-back seam to the garment’s center-back mark.
Match each hood shoulder notch, marked point 0, to its shoulder seam.
Match the front endpoints, keeping any planned overlap in position. Distribute the fabric between the marks without stretching either layer to hide a mismatch.
Baste the attachment seam and try the garment on. Check that the hood reaches the head comfortably and that the front attachment lies flat.
Sew the attachment seam using the allowance included in the pattern. Keep the lining smooth so it does not fold into the stitching.
Finish all exposed neckline allowances together with a serger or zigzag stitch. At an open-front neckline, tuck exposed seam ends beneath the facing or binding and secure them.
Press the allowance toward the garment where the fabric allows. Secure it with topstitching if that suits the garment and does not restrict a stretchy neckline.
Remove visible basting, trim threads, and check the hood up, down, and while turning your head.

For a pullover, also confirm that the finished neck opening still passes comfortably over the wearer’s head.

Knit and Shaped Hood Variations

An Unlined Knit Hood With a Front Band

A folded band gives a knit hood a tidy face opening without lining the whole hood.

Cut mirrored hood pieces from a neckline-matched pattern. For a pullover with overlapping hood fronts, include the overlap in the pattern before cutting.
Sew the curved center seam, right sides together, using a stretch-compatible stitch or serger.
Cut a band 2 inches wide by the length of the hood’s face-opening edge. This is a common starting width; confirm the length against the actual assembled opening and the width against your pattern’s intended finish.
Fold the band lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press gently.
Match both raw long edges of the folded band to the hood’s face-opening edge, right sides together. Align the band ends with the lower hood corners.
Sew the band on with a stretch-compatible seam, finish the allowances, and press them toward the hood.
Pin the hood to the garment, matching center back, shoulders, and front placement. On an overlapping pullover design, position both front ends so the entire front neckline is covered rather than leaving a raw gap.
Sew the neckline seam, finish its allowances, and secure any exposed ends. Check that both the neck and face openings stretch comfortably without broken stitches.

A Three-Piece Hood With a Center Wedge

A three-piece hood uses two side panels joined by a center strip or wedge. Use a drafted three-piece pattern: simply inserting a strip between ordinary two-piece hood halves adds uncontrolled width.

Cut the two mirrored side panels and center wedge, transferring all notches.
With right sides together, sew one long curved wedge edge to one side panel. A common allowance for this construction is 1/4 inch; confirm the exact allowance in the three-piece hood pattern before stitching.
Sew the other side panel to the remaining wedge edge, matching the notches rather than forcing the curves to lie flat.
Press the seams and finish exposed allowances.
Finish the face opening with suitable binding: enclose the raw edge, turn in exposed binding ends, and stitch securely. Use stretch-compatible binding when the opening needs to stretch.
Attach the hood to the garment, matching center back, shoulder marks, and front endpoints.
Finish the neckline allowances and exposed ends, then test the hood with the garment on.

A Hood With a Neckline Dart or Pleat

A dart or pleat can shape extra fabric near the neck, but its intake must be included in the draft.

On a construction that uses a neckline dart or pleat, the intake commonly measures about 1 1/4–1 1/2 inches (3–4 cm). Confirm the width against the chosen pattern and desired shaping.
Add the intake to the draft if it is not already included. Do not remove it from a lower edge that already matches the neckline.
Fold the paper dart or pleat closed and smooth the neckline cutting line while it is folded. Recheck the finished attachment length.
Cut the fabric and sew the shaping. For a dart, taper the stitching smoothly to its point and secure the thread tails; for a pleat, fold to the marks and baste within the neckline allowance.
Press the shaping, sew the hood’s center seam, and finish the face opening with binding that fully encloses the raw edge.
Attach the hood at the neckline marks, finish the attachment allowances and ends, and check that the shaping lies smoothly when worn.

Check the Hood’s Fit and Finish

Inspect the finished garment with its normal front closure fastened.

The hood stays centered. The crown seam sits over the middle of the head, and the shoulder marks remain at the shoulders.
The face opening sits comfortably. It neither pulls behind the forehead nor falls across the eyes.
The neckline lies smoothly. There are no puckers, stretched sections, or exposed raw gaps.
The wearer can move normally. Looking down and turning the head do not drag the garment upward.
The lining stays inside. It does not roll out around the opening or bunch at the neck.
The hood rests neatly when lowered. Its weight does not pull the garment’s front neckline noticeably upward.

If the hood pulls when raised, check height and front-to-back depth before changing the neckline. If it twists, check the alignment marks and seam distribution. If a knit neckline ripples, check whether it was stretched during sewing.

Make any fitting corrections before decorative topstitching. Once the fit is right, transfer the changes to your paper pattern and label its neckline marks, fabric type, and seam allowance so it is ready to reuse.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Do I Make a Coat Hood?

Use a coat-weight hood pattern fitted to the coat’s actual neckline and allow room for its lining and fabric bulk. Assemble the outer hood and lining, join them around the face opening, and attach the lower edge within the coat’s neckline finishing arrangement. If the coat has a collar, decide whether you are replacing it or using a hood designed to work with it; simply stacking both into the seam can create substantial bulk.

Can I Add a Hood to a Dress?

Yes, provided the dress neckline can support the hood’s weight and the hood does not interfere with its closure. A lightweight hood generally suits a lightweight dress better than a heavy, fully lined one. Match the attachment seam to the dress neckline, preserve the zipper or button opening, and enclose the attachment allowances with the dress’s facing, lining, or binding.

Can I Add a Sewn Hood to a Knitted Sweater?

Yes, but preserve the sweater’s stable neckline edge rather than cutting through knitted loops that can unravel. A hood with a finished lower edge can be hand-sewn to that edge with matching center-back, shoulder, and front marks. Keep the attachment flexible enough for the neckline to stretch, secure the thread ends, and test the opening before wearing it.

Can I Make a Hood That Fits Over a Helmet?

Yes, but an over-helmet hood needs a pattern fitted over the actual helmet, not merely a taller version of an ordinary hood. Its crown width, front-to-back depth, face opening, and neckline must work together so the fabric does not obstruct vision or head movement. Test a mock-up with the helmet correctly fitted and fastened; do not loosen or reposition the helmet to accommodate the hood.

How do you draft a hood pattern, and what measurements do you need?

Measure the front and back portions of one side of the neckline from the shoulder, the neckline’s vertical center depth, and the wearer’s head-and-neck height. Draft the crown so it extends upward from the shoulder by that head-and-neck measurement plus at least 1 inch. Add seam allowances after the seam-line shape is finalized, allowing enough at the face edge for its intended finish.