Mastering the Art of Sewing Knits: A Step-by-Step Guide

Do you love the soft and comfortable feel of knit fabrics, but struggle with sewing them? You’re not alone. Sewing with knits can be intimidating for many, but with the right techniques and guidance, it can become a breeze. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewist looking to expand your skills, this article on how to sew knits will provide you with the knowledge and tips you need to successfully conquer this fabric. So grab your sewing machine and let’s delve into the world of sewing with knits!

Different Types of Knit Fabrics

Knit fabrics are one of the most versatile and popular choices for sewing. They can be found in a variety of textures, weights, and compositions. Each type of knit fabric has its own unique characteristics and uses, making it important to understand the differences between them when choosing the right fabric for your project. In this section, we will discuss the different types of knit fabrics and their properties.

Single Knit
Single knit fabric is one of the most common types of knit fabrics used in clothing. It is produced with a single set of needles on a knitting machine, resulting in a smooth and flat surface on one side and a textured surface on the other. This type of knit fabric is lightweight, soft, and has a good amount of stretch. It is commonly used for T-shirts, dresses, skirts, and other lightweight garments.

Double Knit
Double knit fabric consists of two layers of knitting that are joined together during production. This makes it firmer and thicker compared to single knit fabric. Double knit has a good amount of stretch but is more stable than single knits. It is commonly used for jackets, pants, skirts, dresses, and other garments that require more structure.

Jersey Knit
Jersey knit fabric is typically made from cotton or a cotton blend with synthetic fibers. It is stretchy and lightweight with a smooth texture on one side and a textured surface on the other. This type of knit fabric drapes well which makes it ideal for creating flowy dresses or blouses.

Rib Knit
Rib knits have raised vertical rows similar to ribbing on clothing made from single or double-knit fabrics. The ribs add structure to the material making it ideal for creating waistbands or cuffs for garments such as sweaters or sweatpants.

Interlock Knit
Interlock knits are made from two sets of needles that work together to create a double-sided fabric with both sides having a smooth texture. This type of knit is thicker, more stable, and has less stretch than single or double knits. It is often used for sweaters, jackets, and other structured garments.

Fleece
Fleece fabric is made from polyester fibers that are knitted together to create a soft and fuzzy surface on both sides of the fabric. It is typically thicker than other knit fabrics and provides good insulation, making it perfect for creating outerwear such as jackets, coats, and hats.

Stretch and Recovery

Stretch and recovery are two important characteristics of knit fabrics that determine their comfort level and usefulness in different types of garments. Understanding these properties will help you select the right fabric for your project.

Stretch
One of the main advantages of knitting fabrics is their ability to stretch. Unlike woven fabrics, which have limited stretch due to their perpendicular weaving pattern, knit fabrics can stretch in all directions because they are made by looping yarns together. The amount of stretch in a knit fabric depends on its composition – how tightly or loosely the yarns are looped together – as well as the type of knit pattern used during production.

Recovery
Recovery refers to how well a fabric bounces back after being stretched. A good recovery means that the fabric returns to its original size and shape without stretching out or losing its shape. This is important because it affects how well clothes fit and retain their shape over time.

When shopping for knit fabrics, pay attention to their recovery properties as some may have good stretch but poor recovery which can lead to sagging or bagging after being worn.

Elasticity
Elasticity refers to a knit fabric’s ability to stretch and then return to its original size. This property is crucial in activewear or lingerie where fabrics need to have significant stretch and recovery to move with the body and provide support.

Handling Stretch Fabrics
When working with knit fabrics, it is important to handle them properly to ensure that they retain their stretch and recovery properties. Some general tips include using ballpoint needles, a walking foot, and a longer stitch length. These details will help prevent skipped stitches or fabric puckering during sewing.

In conclusion, understanding the different types of knit fabrics and their properties is essential in selecting the right fabric for your project. Whether you’re creating a form-fitting dress or a cozy sweater, knowing the stretch and recovery properties of your fabric will ensure a professional-looking result. Keep these tips in mind next time you’re working with knits to achieve the perfect fit!

Common Characteristics and Challenges when Sewing Knits

Knit fabrics, also known as jersey fabrics, have become increasingly popular in the world of sewing. These types of fabrics are known for their stretch and flexibility, making them perfect for creating comfortable and versatile garments. However, sewing with knits can also come with its own set of challenges.

One of the main characteristics of knit fabrics is their stretchiness. This stretch is caused by the way the fabric is constructed, with interlocking loops called stitches. This allows the fabric to move and shape to the body, making it perfect for garments such as t-shirts, leggings, and dresses. However, this stretch can also make it more difficult to sew with compared to woven fabrics.

Another characteristic of knit fabrics is their drape. While some knit fabrics may have a body-hugging fit, others may have a looser and more flowy appearance. This can affect how certain garments look when worn and can also impact the way they are sewn.

One challenge that often arises when sewing with knits is puckering or stretching of the fabric. This happens when there is too much tension on the fabric while sewing, causing it to distort from its original shape. This can lead to uneven seams and an unprofessional-looking finish.

Another common challenge with knits is maintaining even stitches while sewing. The naturally stretchy nature of these fabrics means that they can easily be pulled out of shape if not handled carefully while sewing. This can result in uneven stitches or skipped stitches.

Fortunately, there are ways to overcome these challenges and successfully sew with knit fabrics. By understanding the characteristics of knits and having the right tools at your disposal, you can create beautiful and professional-looking garments.

Recommended Tools and Supplies for Sewing Knits

Having the right tools and supplies on hand is essential for successfully sewing knits. Here are some of the recommended tools and materials that will make sewing with these types of fabrics much easier and more enjoyable.

1. Ballpoint or Stretch Needle – Using a ballpoint or stretch needle in your sewing machine is crucial when working with knits. These needles have a slightly rounded tip, which helps them glide through the fabric without piercing or snagging the threads.

2. Interfacing – Interfacing can help stabilize knit fabrics and prevent stretching or puckering while sewing. Choose lightweight interfacing and only apply it to areas that need reinforcement, such as necklines, hems, or armholes.

3. Walking Foot – A walking foot is a specialty sewing machine foot that can help feed knit fabrics through the machine evenly by gripping both the top and bottom layers of fabric. This can prevent puckering and stretched seams.

4. Rotary Cutter and Mat – Knit fabrics tend to be slippery and can shift easily, making them difficult to cut accurately with scissors. Using a rotary cutter and mat allows for precise cutting without causing the fabric to shift.

5. Stretch Thread – Stretch thread is specially designed for sewing with knits as it has more give than standard thread. This can help prevent popped threads or broken stitches on stretchy fabrics.

6. Double Needle – A double needle creates parallel rows of stitching, giving a similar finish to a coverstitch machine. This is perfect for hems on knit garments as it provides elasticity while still looking neat and professional.

7. Marking Tools – Chalk pencils or tailor’s chalk are great for marking on knits as they are easily visible but can also be washed away once you’re finished sewing.

8. Seam Ripper – Mistakes happen, especially when working with challenging fabrics like knits. A seam ripper will be your best friend when it comes to fixing mistakes without damaging the fabric.

By having these tools on hand, you’ll be well-equipped to tackle any challenges that may arise when sewing with knits.

Preparing Knit Fabrics for Sewing

Before you begin sewing with knits, it’s important to properly prepare your fabric. Here are some essential steps to follow when preparing knit fabrics for sewing:

1. Pre-Wash the Fabric – Just like with any other type of fabric, it is important to pre-wash your knit fabric before cutting and sewing. This will allow the fabric to shrink if needed and will also remove any chemicals or finishes that may have been applied during production.

2. Lay the Fabric Flat – Once the fabric has been washed, lay it flat to dry. This will prevent any wrinkling or stretching that can occur if you hang the fabric to dry.

3. Use Weights Instead of Pins – As mentioned earlier, knit fabrics can easily shift and move while being cut. Instead of using pins, which can leave holes in the fabric or cause it to bunch up, use pattern weights to hold your pattern pieces in place.

4. Avoid Ironing – Most knits do not require ironing as they can easily stretch out of shape when exposed to high heat. If needed, use a low-heat setting and press gently on a scrap piece of fabric first to test

1. What materials do I need to sew with knits?
You will need a sewing machine, knit fabric, a ballpoint needle, and a small amount of interfacing if working with very stretchy knits.

2. How do I choose the right needle for sewing knits?
Opt for a ballpoint or stretch needle when working with medium to heavy weight knits, and a microtex or jersey needle for lightweight knits.

3. What is the best stitch for sewing with knits?
A stretch stitch or narrow zigzag stitch works best for sewing knits as it allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the seam.

4. Can I use my regular sewing machine foot when working with knits?
It is recommended to use a walking foot or dual feed foot when sewing with knits to prevent excess stretching and puckering.

5. How do I hem a knit garment without it curling up?
To prevent a rolled hem on knit fabric, use a twin needle, coverstitch machine, or zigzag stitch along the edge before folding and stitching in place.

6. How can I make sure my seams are strong and durable when sewing with knits?
To ensure strong seams on knit fabric, reinforce them with fusible interfacing or strips of knit fabric on the inside before stitching. Additionally, backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam for added durability.

In conclusion, learning how to sew knits can be a fun and rewarding experience for anyone interested in crafting their own clothing. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced seamstress, understanding the unique qualities of knit fabrics and following the right techniques can lead to professional-looking results that are both comfortable and stylish.

We have explored the key differences between woven and knit fabrics, as well as the various types of knits commonly used in garment making. We have also discussed important techniques such as choosing the right needle and machine settings, handling stretchy fabrics, and finishing edges for a polished look.

It is important to remember that practice makes perfect when it comes to sewing with knits. Don’t be discouraged if your first attempts do not turn out exactly as desired. Keep on experimenting and fine-tuning your skills, and soon you will be able to confidently create custom knit garments that fit your body perfectly.

One of the most valuable insights gained from learning how to sew knits is the ability to create sustainable and eco-friendly clothing. By making our own garments, we reduce our reliance on fast fashion brands that contribute to environmental degradation and unethical labor practices.

Moreover, sewing knits allows us to personalize our wardrobe with unique designs that reflect our personal style rather than conforming to mass-produced trends