Mastering the Art of Sewing: A Guide to Perfectly Installing a Lapped Zipper

AvatarByJill Nammar Sewing

Are you tired of struggling with lumpy, uneven zippers on your handmade garments? Look no further, as we have the solution to achieve a seamless and polished finish – the lapped zipper technique! Whether you are a seasoned seamstress or just starting out, learning how to sew a lapped zipper is an essential skill that will elevate your sewing game. In this article, we will guide you step by step on how to master this technique and give your garments a professional touch. Get your sewing machines ready, and let’s dive into the world of lapped zippers!

The Basics of Sewing a Lapped Zipper

When it comes to sewing, one of the most common techniques is using a lapped zipper. This type of zipper is often seen on dresses, skirts, and pants. It is a secure and professional-looking zipper finish that can elevate any garment. In this article, we will guide you through the process of sewing a lapped zipper, starting with the basics.

What is a Lapped Zipper?

As the name suggests, a lapped zipper involves overlapping fabric pieces to cover the zipper. This technique hides the zipper teeth from sight and creates a smooth appearance on the outer side of the garment. Compared to other types of zippers, it requires less precision and accuracy in installation.

Materials Needed

To sew a lapped zipper successfully, you will need a few essential materials:

  • Fabric
  • Zipper
  • Sewing machine with zipper foot attachment
  • Pins
  • Scissors
  • Tape measure or ruler
  • Fabric marking tool

Preparing the Fabric and Zipper

Before starting to sew, it is essential to prepare both your fabric and your zipper. For fabric preparation, make sure to pre-wash it according to its care instructions. This step helps prevent fabric shrinkage later on.

Next, lay out your fabric on a flat surface with the right side facing down. Measure and mark where you want your zipper to be installed. Make sure that both sides of your opening are marked correctly.

For preparing your zipper, make sure that it is longer than your opening by at least 1 inch on each end. You can use any regular or invisible zipper for this technique; just make sure that it matches or complements your fabric.

Sewing the Lapped Zipper

Now that everything is prepped, we can start sewing our lapped zipper.

Step 1: Sew the first side of the zipper
Place your zipper face down on the wrong side of the fabric, aligning its teeth with your marked opening. Pin it in place, making sure to keep it straight and centered. Using the zipper foot attachment on your sewing machine, start sewing from the top of the fabric down to about 2 inches away from the bottom. You can use basting stitches for temporary hold before sewing over them with permanent stitches.

Step 2: Prepare for topstitching
Once you reach 2 inches from the bottom, backstitch or tie off your threads and remove it from your machine. Now fold back your fabric at the stitched line, covering half of your zipper. Make sure that both sides’ edges are aligned and even.

Step 3: Topstitch
Place your zipper back on a flat surface and use pins to keep both layers of fabric together. Using a matching thread color, start stitching along the folded edge close to the teeth. You can remove pins as you go along.

Step 4: Repeat for other side
Now that one side is topstitched, repeat steps 1-3 for the other side of your zipper using a new fabric piece.

Finishing Touches

Once both sides are secured in place, it’s time to do some finishing touches.

Firstly, stitch across each end of your zipper tape to prevent it from separating. You can also add a bartack at this point for more security.

Secondly, sew down any remaining raw edges on each side to create a neat finish.

Finally, give your newly installed lapped zipper a good press with an iron to flatten any wrinkles and create a professional look.

Troubleshooting

If you encounter any issues while installing your lapped zipper, here are some troubleshooting tips:

– If your zipper is too long, you can sew a stopper at the end using a few stitches.
– If your zipper is too short, leave a small opening at the end and close it off with hand sewing later.
– If your fabric puckers or gathers around the zipper, try using a pressing cloth when ironing. You can also use spray starch to help straighten out your fabric.
– If your topstitching is not even or straight, use a seam ripper to remove the stitches and try again.

Conclusion

Congratulations! You have successfully sewn a lapped zipper. With this technique, you can give any garment a professional-looking finish. Remember to take your time and practice to perfect this skill. Happy sewing!

What is a Lapped Zipper?

A lapped zipper is a type of zipper used in sewing garments, usually on the side or back seam. Unlike a regular zipper where the teeth are exposed, a lapped zipper is concealed beneath an overlapping fabric placket. This gives a neater and more polished look to the garment. Lapped zippers are commonly seen on skirts, dresses, and pants.

The construction of a lapped zipper involves sewing one side of the zipper to the back or side seam of the garment, then folding over the remaining fabric to conceal the zipper teeth. This creates an overlapping placket that hides the zipper and makes it appear as if it is seamless. The hidden zipper allows for a more snug and flattering fit without any bulky seams.

Why Choose a Lapped Zipper?

There are several reasons why you may choose to use a lapped zipper in your sewing projects. First and foremost, it offers a cleaner and more elegant finish compared to other types of zippers. The concealed teeth create a streamlined appearance that is perfect for formal or dressy garments.

Additionally, lapped zippers are also great for achieving a better fit on your garments. As mentioned earlier, the hidden nature of this type of zipper allows for a closer fit without any added bulk. This can be especially useful when working with fitted garments such as pencil skirts or formal dresses.

Another advantage of using lapped zippers is that they are less likely to become caught or snagged during wear. Traditional zippers with exposed teeth can catch on fabrics or jewelry, potentially causing damage to both the garment and the item snagged. With a lapped zipper, there is less chance of this happening since the teeth are tucked away.

Materials Needed

To sew a lapped zipper successfully, you will need:

– A garment with an opening for the zipper (such as a side or back seam)
– A suitable zipper, slightly longer than the opening
– Matching thread
– Sewing machine (with a zipper foot attachment)
– Pins or clips
– Scissors
– Measuring tape or ruler

Step-by-step Guide: How to Sew a Lapped Zipper

Now that you understand what a lapped zipper is and why it may be beneficial to use one, let’s walk through the steps of actually sewing one onto your garment.

Step 1: Prepare Your Garment Opening

Begin by preparing the opening where your zipper will be inserted. This could be the side or back seam of a skirt, dress, or pants. If necessary, interface the edges of the seam to make it sturdier and prevent fraying.

Step 2: Prepare Your Zipper

Next, prepare your zipper by unzipping it completely. Place a strip of double-sided tape on the wrong side of one edge to keep it from unraveling while you work. If you do not have double-sided tape, you can also use glue stick or basting stitches.

Step 3: Mark Your Seam Allowance

Using pins or tailor’s chalk, mark your desired seam allowance on both edges of your garment opening. The typical seam allowance for zippers is 5/8 inch, but you can adjust this according to your preference.

Step 4: Pin Your Zipper in Place

With the right side of your fabric facing up, place your zipper face down on top of the garment opening. Align one edge with your marked seam allowance and pin in place.

Step 5: Sew One Side of the Zipper

Using a zipper foot attachment on your sewing machine, stitch down one side of the zipper using a straight stitch. Start at the top end and sew until you reach just below where the marked stitching line begins (about 1/2 inch from the edge of the fabric).

Step 6: Press and Fold Over

Press the seam allowance back and fold the zipper tape over to conceal the teeth. Pin this in place.

Step 7: Sew Second Side of Zipper

Stitch down the second side of the zipper, starting at the top edge. This time, you will be sewing through both layers of fabric and the folded zipper tape. Sew until you reach just below where the marked stitching line begins.

Step 8: Press Again

Press both sides of the zipper again to create a neat and crisp crease.

Step 9: Secure Ends of the Zipper Tape

Using a ruler or measuring tape, determine how much excess zipper tape is left at each end. Trim this down to about 1/4 inch, then fold it under and pin in place.

Step 10: Sew Across the Bottom Edge

To keep your ends secure, sew across the bottom edge, passing through all layers of fabric and zipper tape.

Congratulations! You have now successfully sewn a lapped zipper onto your garment! With practice, this technique can become second nature and you’ll be able to create seamless zippers with ease.

Troubleshooting

1. What is a lapped zipper?
A lapped zipper is a type of zipper installation where one side of the zipper tape overlaps the other, creating a concealed closure on the garment.

2. Do I need special tools to sew a lapped zipper?
No, you do not need any special tools to sew a lapped zipper. However, having a zipper foot for your sewing machine can make the process easier and more precise.

3. How do I prepare my fabric for sewing a lapped zipper?
Before sewing, make sure that the edges of your fabric are neat and finished. You can either serge or zigzag stitch the raw edges to prevent fraying.

4. Can I use any type of zipper for a lapped zipper?
Yes, you can use any type of regular or invisible zipper for a lapped zipper installation. Just make sure that the length of the zipper matches your garment’s opening.

5. How do I sew a lapped zipper step-by-step?
Firstly, open up the garment and place the right side facing up on your work surface. Then, place one half of the opened zipper face down along one side of the opening and pin it in place. Next, place another half of the opened zipper face down on top of it, with its teeth facing away from you and overlapping with other one-inch apart. Pin it in place as well. Lastly, sew along both sides, making sure to pivot at each end and backstitch at both ends.

6. My lapped zippered fabric puckers when I sew it together, how can I prevent this?
Puckering is usually caused by excess fabric at the seam allowances or incorrect tension settings on your machine. To prevent this issue, make sure to trim away excess fabric before sewing and adjust your machine’s tension as needed. Alternatively, you can try sewing with a basting stitch first to check the fit before using your regular stitch length.

In conclusion, knowing how to sew a lapped zipper is a valuable skill for any sewer. It allows for professional and polished finishing on garments, making them not only visually appealing but also durable and long-lasting.

Throughout this guide, we have discussed the step-by-step process of sewing a lapped zipper. This includes preparing the fabric, marking and sewing the zipper tape, attaching the zipper pull tab, and finishing with the topstitching and securing stitches.

We have also highlighted the importance of accurate measurements and proper placement of the zipper to ensure a smooth and seamless installation. The use of an invisible zipper foot or a regular zipper foot can make all the difference in achieving a neat and professional-looking finish.

Furthermore, we have discussed different variations of lapped zippers such as centered zippers, exposed zippers, and invisible zippers, giving you options to choose from depending on your project’s needs.

Learning how to sew a lapped zipper may seem daunting at first, but with practice and patience, it can become second nature. With this skill in your arsenal, you can confidently tackle any garment or project that requires a zipper closure.

Finally, we cannot stress enough the importance of taking your time and practicing on scrap fabric before attempting to sew it onto your project. By

Author Profile

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Jill Nammar
My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.