Mastering the Art of Sewing on Jersey Knit: A Step-by-Step Guide

Sewing is a timeless skill that has been passed down through generations, allowing individuals to create personalized and unique pieces of clothing. With the variety of fabrics available, mastering the art of sewing can open up a world of endless possibilities. One fabric in particular that may seem challenging to work with is jersey knit. Its stretchy and often slippery texture can intimidate even the most experienced seamstress. But fear not, as we have compiled a comprehensive guide on how to sew on jersey knit fabric. Whether you’re a beginner or looking to expand your sewing skills, this article will provide you with the necessary tips and techniques to successfully work with this versatile fabric. So grab your needles and threads, and let’s dive into the world of sewing on jersey knit!

What is Jersey Knit Fabric?

Jersey knit fabric is a type of knit fabric that is commonly used for making clothing, particularly t-shirts, dresses, and other comfortable, stretchy items. It is a popular choice for many sewing projects because it is easy to work with and has a number of desirable qualities.

Jersey knit fabric is made by knitting together rows of loops in a single continuous strand instead of weaving different threads together. This creates a soft and flexible fabric that drapes well and stretches easily in both directions. Unlike woven fabrics, which have little stretch, jersey knit can be pulled in all directions without creating unsightly wrinkles or damaging the fabric.

One of the defining characteristics of jersey knit is its weight- it is much lighter than many other types of fabrics. It also typically has a smooth surface on one side and a textured surface on the other. This texture adds interest to garments made from jersey knit and gives them a bit of dimension.

Choosing the Right Needle and Thread for Sewing on Jersey Knit

When it comes to sewing on jersey knit, it’s important to use the right needle and thread to ensure that your project comes out looking professional and polished. Choosing the wrong needle or thread could result in skipped stitches, broken threads, or an uneven stitch line.

For most projects involving jersey knit fabric, a ballpoint needle is recommended. This type of needle has a rounded tip that moves between the knitted fibers rather than piercing them like a standard sewing needle would. This helps prevent runs or pulls in the fabric while you sew. Additionally, using a size 70/10 or 80/12 ballpoint needle will help prevent damage to your fabric while still providing enough support for your stitches.

When it comes to choosing thread for sewing on jersey knit fabric, polyester or cotton-poly blends are ideal due to their elasticity and strength. Avoid using 100% cotton thread, as it may not have enough stretch to keep up with the fabric. Use a medium weight thread or a weight that matches the weight of the jersey knit fabric you are working with.

Important Tips for Sewing on Jersey Knit

Sewing on jersey knit can be a bit different than sewing on other types of fabric. Follow these tips to achieve the best results when working with jersey knit:

1. Use a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch – Since jersey knit fabric stretches, it’s important to use a stitch that can accommodate this stretch. A straight stitch may pop or become distorted when the fabric is stretched, so using a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch will prevent this from happening.

2. Practice before starting your project – If you’ve never sewn on jersey knit before, it’s always a good idea to practice your stitches on scrap fabric before starting your project. This will allow you to get familiar with how your machine handles this type of fabric and make any necessary adjustments.

3. Use a walking foot – When sewing on jersey knit, the layers of fabric can sometimes shift and create uneven stitches. Using a walking foot can help prevent this by evenly feeding both layers of fabric through the machine at the same time.

4. Avoid using pins – Pins can leave visible holes in jersey knit fabric and may cause puckering when they are removed. Instead, try using clips or wonder tape to hold your pieces together while sewing.

5. Cut with caution – Jersey knit is known for its tendency to curl at the edges, so be careful not to stretch or distort your pieces while cutting them out. It’s also recommended to use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to ensure clean cuts without damaging the fabric.

Techniques for Seam Finishes on Jersey Knit

Achieving professional-looking seam finishes is important for any sewing project, and this is no exception when it comes to working with jersey knit fabric. Here are a few techniques you can use to finish seams on jersey knit:

1. Zigzag finish – This is a simple and effective way to prevent the edges of your jersey knit seams from unraveling. Use a medium-width zigzag stitch over the raw edge of the seam, making sure that the needle just catches the edge of the fabric.

2. Overlock stitch – If your sewing machine has an overlock or serger stitch, this is an ideal way to finish seams on jersey knit. It creates a clean, professional look while also preventing fraying.

3. French seams – This is a more advanced technique but can result in a neat and tidy finish on the inside of your garment. To do this, sew the seam with wrong sides together first, then fold one side over and sew it again right sides together.

4. Binding – Another option for finishing seams on jersey knit is to use binding strips made out of the same fabric or a contrasting one. Sew the binding strip onto the seam allowance and then fold it over to encase the raw edge before stitching it down.

In Summary

Sewing on jersey knit may seem intimidating at first, but

Understanding Jersey Knit Fabric

Jersey knit fabric is a popular choice for sewing because of its versatility and comfort. It is a lightweight, stretchy, and breathable material that is commonly used for making t-shirts, dresses, and other clothing items. However, many people are hesitant to sew with jersey knit due to its slippery and sometimes challenging nature. In this section, we will discuss everything you need to know about jersey knit fabric to help you master the art of sewing with it.

Firstly, let’s understand what makes jersey knit different from other types of fabrics. Unlike woven fabric, which is made by interlacing vertical and horizontal threads, jersey knit fabric is made using a knitted construction. This means that the yarns are looped together in a series of interconnected loops rather than being woven together. This unique construction gives jersey knit its characteristic stretchiness and drape.

One important factor to note about jersey knit is its weight. It comes in various weights ranging from lightweight to heavyweight. Lightweight jersey knits are perfect for making summer clothes, while heavyweight ones are suitable for winter garments such as sweaters and coats. When purchasing jersey knit fabric for your sewing project, make sure to choose the right weight based on your desired garment’s season.

Another essential aspect to consider when working with jersey knits is their fiber content. Typically, this type of fabric is made from natural or synthetic fibers such as cotton, rayon, polyester, or a blend of these materials. Cotton jersey knits are breathable and soft; however, they tend to shrink when washed if not pre-shrunk before sewing. On the other hand, polyester jersey knits are more durable and resistant to shrinking but may not be as breathable as cotton blends.

Selecting the Right Tools

Sewing with stretchy fabrics like jersey knits can be quite tricky without the proper tools. To ensure your sewing project’s success, it is crucial to have the right tools at your disposal. Firstly, start with a stretch needle. Unlike regular sewing needles, stretch needles have a ballpoint tip that slides between the fabric’s fibers rather than piercing them. This prevents cutting the yarns and causing runs in your fabric.

In addition to a stretch needle, you will also need ballpoint pins to hold your jersey knit fabrics together. These pins have a rounded tip that won’t damage or distort the fabric’s fibers like regular pins would. Another essential tool is a rotary cutter and mat. Jersey knit fabric tends to shift and can be challenging to cut with scissors accurately. Using a rotary cutter allows for smoother and more precise cuts.

Lastly, consider using an overlock machine for sewing hems, edges, and trimmings on jersey knit fabric. An overlock machine creates strong and flexible seams that can withstand the jersey knits’ natural stretch without breaking.

Preparing Your Fabric

Before starting any sewing project, it is essential to pre-wash your fabric first. This step is crucial when working with jersey knits as some types of this fabric are prone to shrinking when washed. Pre-washing Jersey knit not only shrinks it but also removes any chemicals or finishes applied during the manufacturing process that may cause discoloration or shrinkage later on.

Once you’ve washed your jersey knit, it’s time to lay it out flat on a cutting mat and get ready to cut your desired pattern pieces. Jersey knits are known for their tendency to curl at the edges; therefore, securing them in place before cutting is vital. You can use pattern weights or even kitchen items like cans or bowls to keep your fabric from shifting while cutting.

Sewing Tips for Jersey Knit

The key factor when sewing with jersey knit is R-E-L-A-X.| Many experienced sewists often recommend using a walking foot when sewing jersey knit fabrics. A walking foot helps to distribute the fabric evenly, making it easier to control and stitch without any puckers or stretching.

Furthermore, when sewing seams on jersey knits, consider using a stretch stitch like zig-zag or a lightning bolt stitch instead of the straight stitch. Stretch stitches allow the fabric to retain its stretchiness without breaking the thread. Additionally, adjusting your sewing machine’s tension is crucial when working with jersey knits. Experiment with different tension settings until you find one that works best for your fabric and thread combination.

Another helpful tip for sewing with jersey knit is to use tissue paper between layers of the fabric while stitching. This prevents the fabric from stretching too much and keeps it in place.

Finishing Your Project

After all the hard work put into sewing your garment, it’s finally time to finish it off! When hemming jersey knit fabrics, it is best to use a double needle. This creates two parallel rows of stitching on the right side of the garment and adds stretchiness and strength to the hem.

To prevent seams from unraveling, consider using a serger or overlock machine to finish them off. If these options are not available, trim down

1. How do I prepare my sewing machine for sewing on jersey knit fabric?
To sew on jersey knit, it is important to prepare your sewing machine properly beforehand. Start by selecting a needle specifically designed for knit fabrics, such as a ballpoint or stretch needle. Next, adjust the tension of the top thread to a lower setting and use a polyester or cotton blend thread to prevent breakage. It may also help to put some tissue paper behind the fabric while sewing to prevent it from getting caught in the feed dog.

2. What type of stitch should I use when sewing on jersey knit?
When sewing on jersey knit, it is best to use a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch, such as a triple straight stitch or a lightning bolt stitch. These types of stitches provide more give and will prevent the thread from breaking when the fabric stretches.

3. How can I prevent my jersey knit fabric from puckering while sewing?
To avoid puckering, make sure your machine is set up properly for jersey knit fabric (see question #1). In addition, hold both the front and back of the fabric taut while sewing, and try using a walking foot attachment if you have one available.

4. How do I finish raw edges when sewing with jersey knit fabric?
Jersey knit has a tendency to curl at the raw edges, so it’s important to finish them properly. You can use an overlock or serger machine if you have one, but if not, you can also use a zigzag stitch along the edge or sew on a strip of bias tape for added stability.

5. Can I use regular scissors to cut jersey knit fabric?
While it is possible to cut jersey knit with regular scissors, it is not recommended as it can result in uneven edges and fraying. It is best to use a pair of sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter for clean, precise cuts.

6. What is the best way to hem jersey knit fabric?
When hemming jersey knit, it’s important to maintain the stretch of the fabric to avoid puckering. A double needle hem is a popular and effective method for jersey knit as it allows for both stretch and stability. You can also use a walking foot attachment if available to help feed the fabric evenly while hemming.

In conclusion, learning how to sew on jersey knit fabric can be a useful skill for any sewing enthusiast. By understanding the unique properties of this stretchy and versatile fabric, one can create comfortable and stylish garments such as t-shirts, dresses, and even activewear. To successfully sew on jersey knit, it is important to choose the right needle and thread, use proper sewing techniques such as using a zigzag stitch, and take precautions such as stabilizing the fabric. Additionally, practicing patience and attention to detail will help achieve a professional-looking finish. Remember to always test your stitches on scrap fabric before working on the final garment. With dedication and practice, anyone can master sewing on jersey knit fabric.

Moreover, sewing on jersey knit is not limited to clothing alone. It can also be used in home decor projects such as creating pillow covers or curtains. The possibilities are endless with this versatile fabric.

However, it is important to note that working with jersey knit can be challenging at first due to its stretchy nature. Frustration may arise when stitches become uneven or puckering occurs. But with perseverance and following the tips discussed in this guide, one can overcome these challenges and produce well-made garments.

Lastly, learning how to sew on jersey knit not only adds diversity to one’s

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.