Mastering the Art of Sewing Stretch Velvet: A Step-by-Step Guide

Sewing can be a fun and fulfilling hobby, but for many, the thought of working with stretch velvet may seem intimidating. This luxurious and soft fabric has a reputation for being tricky to sew with, causing frustration and discouragement for many aspiring seamstresses. However, with the right techniques and tools, sewing with stretch velvet can actually be quite simple and even enjoyable.

In this article, we will delve into the world of sewing stretch velvet, exploring tips and tricks that will help you master this beautiful fabric. From choosing the right needle to handling the fabric with care, we will cover everything you need to know in order to create stunning garments and accessories with ease. So if you’re ready to conquer your fear of sewing with stretch velvet and unleash your creativity, then let’s get started!

Stretch velvet is a luxurious and versatile fabric that has become increasingly popular in the fashion world. It combines the softness and sheen of velvet with the stretch and comfort of spandex, making it perfect for a variety of clothing items such as dresses, tops, skirts, and more. However, working with stretch velvet can be intimidating for those who are used to sewing with non-stretch fabrics. But don’t worry, with the right techniques and tools, you can learn how to sew stretch velvet like a pro.

Understanding Stretch Velvet

Before diving into sewing techniques, it is important to understand the properties of stretch velvet. This fabric is made up of two layers – the soft pile on top and the knit backing underneath. The percentage of spandex in the fabric varies from brand to brand, but typically it ranges from 5%-10%, giving it its stretchy quality. The knit backing also makes it more stable than regular velvet, preventing it from slipping or shifting while sewing.

Choosing the Right Sewing Machine

The first step in sewing stretch velvet is making sure you have the right sewing machine for the job. Ideally, you should use a machine with a walking foot or dual feed system as this will help to evenly feed the fabric through and prevent any stretching or puckering. If your machine does not have these features, you can still sew stretch velvet by adjusting your machine’s settings such as using a longer stitch length and reducing foot pressure.

Tools and Materials

Besides having a suitable sewing machine, there are some essential tools and materials that will make working with stretch velvet easier:

– Stretch or ballpoint needles: These needles have rounded tips that slide between the knit fibers instead of piercing them which can cause skipped stitches or snags.
– Sharp scissors: Velvet has a tendency to shed, so it is important to use sharp scissors to get clean and precise cuts.
– Pins or clips: To prevent any damage to the fabric, it is recommended to use pins with rounded tips or clips instead of regular pins.
– Fabric weights: Stretch velvet can be slippery, so using fabric weights will help keep the fabric in place while cutting.
– An iron: A hot iron can melt or crush the fine velvet pile, so make sure to use a pressing cloth when ironing your finished garment.
– A walking foot or dual feed system (optional): As mentioned earlier, these features on your sewing machine can greatly assist in sewing stretch velvet.

Preparing and Cutting Your Fabric

Before cutting out your pattern pieces, it is important to prepare your stretch velvet fabric. Start by pre-washing it using a gentle detergent on a delicate cycle. This step will remove any sizing on the fabric and pre-shrink it if needed. Next, lay out your fabric on a flat surface with the pile side facing down. Place your pattern pieces on top and secure them with pins or clips. Using a rotary cutter or sharp scissors, carefully cut out your pieces following the grain of the fabric. If using scissors, try not to pull or stretch the fabric while cutting as this can distort the shape of your garment.

Prepping Your Sewing Machine

To ensure smooth sewing with stretch velvet, there are a few settings you should adjust on your sewing machine:

– Stitch length: Set your stitch length to 3mm – 4mm as shorter stitches can cause puckering and longer stitches offer more flexibility for the stretch in the fabric.
– Stitch type: A narrow zigzag stitch (0.5mm – 1mm) or a lightning bolt stitch are ideal for sewing stretch fabrics as they have more give than straight stitches.
– Tension: Test out different tension settings on a scrap piece of fabric before sewing to find the perfect tension for your specific fabric.
– Foot pressure: If your machine has this feature, reduce the foot pressure to prevent any stretching or distortion while sewing.

Sewing Techniques

Now that your machine is prepped and ready, it’s time to start sewing. Here are some techniques to keep in mind while stitching stretch velvet:

– Handling: Velvet can be delicate, so handle it gently and avoid pulling or tugging on the fabric.
– Seams: Use a narrow zigzag stitch or overlock stitch for sewing seams. You can also use a straight stitch with a stretch stitch in between each stitch for added flexibility.
– Finish raw edges: You can either use an overlock or zigzag stitch to finish raw edges or opt for French seams which offer a clean and neat finish.
– Hems: For hemming, turn the fabric under twice instead of folding it once, as this will reduce bulk and prevent any distortion from the weight of the fabric.
– Testing: Always test your stitches on a scrap piece of fabric before sewing on your actual garment. This will help you find the right settings for your specific fabric.

Sewing with stretch velvet may seem daunting

Tips and Tricks for Sewing Stretch Velvet

Sewing with stretch velvet can be a daunting task, but with the right techniques and tips, you can create beautiful garments with this luxurious fabric. Here are some tips and tricks to help you master the art of sewing stretch velvet:

1. Use the right needles
The type of needle you use can make all the difference when sewing stretch velvet. It is recommended to use a ballpoint needle which will glide through the fabric without damaging it. Ballpoint needles have a rounded tip that allows them to slide between the fibers of the fabric instead of piercing them.

2. Adjust your sewing machine tension
Stretch velvet is a delicate fabric that requires a lower tension setting on your sewing machine. This will prevent puckering and pulling of the fabric while sewing. Test out different tension settings on a scrap piece of velvet before starting your project, so you know which setting works best for your machine.

3. Use tissue paper
If you find that your stretch velvet is getting stuck in your machine or not feeding through smoothly, try placing a layer of tissue paper on top of the fabric to act as a stabilizer. Once you have finished sewing, simply tear away the tissue paper.

4. Practice proper handling techniques
Stretch velvet has a tendency to slip and shift while handling, so it’s crucial to use proper techniques to avoid stretching or distorting the fabric. When cutting out your pattern pieces, lay them flat on top of each other rather than pinning them together as you would with other fabrics. This will keep them from shifting around while cutting.

5. Pin wisely
Pinning through stretch velvet can leave permanent holes in the fabric, so it’s important to be strategic about where you place your pins. Try using pattern weights instead or only pinning within the seam allowance where any holes won’t be visible.

6. Consider using interfacing
Interfacing can provide extra support and stability when sewing with stretch velvet. Choose a lightweight interfacing and apply it to the wrong side of the fabric before cutting out your pattern pieces.

7. Use a walking foot
A walking foot is a special presser foot that keeps the layers of fabric moving together evenly as you sew. This is especially helpful when sewing stretch velvet, as it prevents any shifting or puckering.

8. Take your time with seams
When sewing seams, be sure to sew slowly and carefully. Stretch velvet has a tendency to fray easily, so try not to pull or tug on the fabric while sewing.

Finishing Techniques for Stretch Velvet

Properly finishing your stretch velvet projects is essential for achieving a professional look. Here are some techniques to consider when finishing your garments:

1. Use a serger
A serger is an ideal machine for finishing stretch velvet seams as it simultaneously trims, overlocks, and finishes raw edges in one step. If you don’t have access to a serger, consider using a zigzag stitch or an overcast stitch on your regular sewing machine.

2. Consider lining or underlining
Lining or underlining your stretch velvet garment will not only give it a clean and polished look but it will also provide extra support and cover any visible seam allowances.

3. Hand-hemming
Hand-stitching the hem of your stretch velvet garment will give it an invisible finish and maintain the elasticity of the fabric. Using a narrow strip of fusible tape can also help keep the hem in place while hemming.

4. Avoid topstitching
Stretch velvet has a tendency to show every stitch, so topstitching should be avoided whenever possible. If you do need to topstitch, try using a matching thread color and make sure to test on scrap fabric first to ensure the stitches won’t be visible.

5. Use a pressing cloth
When pressing stretch velvet, always use a pressing cloth to avoid damaging the fabric or creating unwanted shine. Place the pressing cloth between the iron and fabric and use moderate heat to gently press seams open or closed.

Caring for Your Stretch Velvet Garments

To keep your stretch velvet garments looking like new, it’s essential to understand how to properly care for them. Here are some tips for caring for your stretch velvet creations:

1. Hand-wash or gentle cycle
Stretch velvet is a delicate fabric that should be treated with care. To prevent any damage, it’s best to hand-wash your garment with mild detergent or machine wash on a gentle cycle with cold water.

2. Lay flat to dry
After washing, never wring or twist your stretch velvet garment as this can damage the fabric fibers and cause it to lose its shape. Instead, lay it flat on a towel and roll it up to remove excess water before laying it out on a drying rack.

3. Avoid hanging
Hanging stretch velvet garments can cause them to stretch out of shape or leave unwanted indentations from the hanger. If needed, fold the garment over a padded hanger or simply lay it flat.

4. Steam instead of iron

1) What is stretch velvet and why would I want to sew with it?
Stretch velvet is a type of fabric that has added spandex or elastane, giving it a flexible and stretchy quality. It is popular for creating clothing items that require a fitted or form-fitting silhouette, such as dresses or leggings.

2) What type of sewing machine should I use when working with stretch velvet?
It is recommended to use a sewing machine with a stretch stitch or adjustable zigzag stitch when sewing with stretch velvet. This will allow for the fabric to stretch without breaking the stitches.

3) How should I prepare my fabric before sewing with stretch velvet?
Before beginning your project, it is important to pre-wash your fabric to prevent any shrinkage in the final product. Use a delicate cycle and mild detergent, and air dry the fabric to avoid any damage.

4) What type of needle should I use when sewing with stretch velvet?
A ballpoint needle or a jersey needle are ideal for working with stretch fabrics like velvet. These needles have slightly rounded tips which will help prevent snags and runs in the fabric while you sew.

5) Can I iron my stretch velvet while sewing?
Avoid using high heat when ironing stretch velvet as it can cause the fabric to melt or become damaged. If necessary, use a low heat setting and place a towel over the fabric before ironing gently.

6) How do I finish seams on my project made with stretch velvet?
For a professional look, consider using French seams on your project made with stretch velvet. This will enclose the raw edges of the seam, preventing any fraying or unraveling. Alternatively, you can also use an overlock stitch on your sewing machine to finish the edges.

In conclusion, sewing stretch velvet may seem like a daunting task, but with the right techniques and tools, it can be a manageable and rewarding experience. By understanding the properties and characteristics of stretch velvet, choosing the appropriate sewing machine and needles, and following proper handling and stitching techniques, you can successfully create beautifully tailored garments from this luxurious fabric.

It is important to remember to always handle stretch velvet with care, as it is delicate and prone to stretching or shifting during the sewing process. Taking the time to prepare and stabilize your fabric before cutting and sewing will save you frustration in the long run. Additionally, experimenting with different stitches and techniques can add unique design elements to your garments.

While sewing stretch velvet can be challenging at times, it also offers a chance for creativity and experimentation. Whether you are creating an elegant evening gown or a comfy pair of leggings, mastering the art of sewing stretch velvet opens up endless possibilities for your wardrobe.

Furthermore, aside from its luxurious appearance and versatility in creating various garment types, sewing with stretch velvet also allows for comfortable and flattering fits. This is especially beneficial for those who struggle with finding ready-to-wear clothing that fits their unique body shape.

Overall, by familiarizing yourself with the necessary tools and techniques for sewing stretch velvet, you can confidently take

Author Profile

Rebecca Nolen

My name is Rebecca, though most people simply call me Becca. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French style and timeless garden blooms. Peonies, with their soft layers and romantic charm, are my constant muse.

I hope you find a warm, inviting space to enjoy stitching my patterns. Brew your favorite coffee, settle in, and create a heartfelt piece of hand-embroidered art. Let your home reflect its own personality and soul with stitches that speak of comfort and grace.

My goal is to share beautiful patterns that inspire peaceful, mindful stitching. My hope is that you discover the quiet joy of hand-embroidery. My work has been featured across creative communities and in Stitch & Story Journal and The Artisan’s Review. Cross stitch remains my truest source of joy.

Since 2024, I’ve embarked on an exciting chapter—writing an informative blog dedicated to the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my love for the craft, offering detailed articles and personal responses to reader questions on all things stitching.

It covers a wide range of topics, from beginner-friendly tips and original pattern creation to historical insights and the therapeutic benefits of needlework. My goal is to build a space where stitchers of all levels can learn, share, and grow together, finding their own peace and pleasure in cross stitch just as I did.

To all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French, thank you. Your kind words, photos of finished creations, and steady encouragement are the threads that keep me creating. Let’s keep stitching a world of beauty and serenity, one pattern at a time.