Mastering the Art of Sewing with Jersey Knit: A Step-by-Step Guide

AvatarByJill Nammar Sewing

Whether you’re a seasoned seamstress or a novice looking to expand your skillset, sewing with jersey knit fabric may seem like a daunting task. Known for its stretch and soft drape, this versatile material can often be intimidating to work with. However, with the right techniques and tips, it is possible to create beautiful and comfortable garments using jersey knit. In this article, we will discuss everything you need to know about how to sew with jersey knit fabric, from the necessary tools and materials to helpful techniques for achieving professional-looking results. So grab your sewing machine and let’s dive into the world of jersey knit!

Sewing with jersey knit fabric may seem intimidating at first, especially for those who are used to working with woven fabrics. However, with the right techniques and tips, it can be a fun and rewarding experience. Jersey knit fabric is known for its stretchy and drapey qualities, making it a popular choice for clothing such as shirts, dresses, and skirts. In this guide, we will cover everything you need to know about how to sew with jersey knit fabric.

Understanding Jersey Knit Fabric

Before we dive into the sewing process, it is important to understand the characteristics of jersey knit fabric. Unlike woven fabrics that are made by weaving fibers together, jersey knits are made by knitting yarns together in a series of loops. This gives the fabric its signature stretchiness and fluid drape.

There are different types of jersey knit fabrics such as cotton, rayon, polyester, and blends of these materials. Each type has its own unique properties and may require different handling during sewing. For beginners, it is recommended to start with a cotton or cotton blend jersey as it is easier to work with compared to slippery materials like rayon or polyester.

Jersey knit fabric also comes in different weights – lightweight, medium weight, and heavyweight. The weight of the fabric can affect its drape and stretchiness. Lighter weights are better suited for flowy garments while heavier weights work well for more structured pieces.

Preparing Your Fabric

Before starting any sewing project with jersey knit fabric, it is essential to prewash your fabric. This will help prevent any shrinkage or color bleeding after the garment is sewn. If possible, use cold water on a gentle cycle and hang dry rather than putting it in the dryer.

Once your fabric is dry, lay it flat on your cutting surface and smooth out any wrinkles. Jersey knits tend to curl at the edges, so it is crucial to use pattern weights or pins to keep the fabric in place while cutting. If you are using a sewing pattern, make sure to follow the grainline indicated on the pattern pieces.

Choosing the Right Needle and Thread

When sewing with jersey knit fabric, it is crucial to use the right needle and thread to prevent any puckering or skipped stitches. A ballpoint or stretch needle is best suited for jersey knits as they have a slightly rounded point that can easily glide through the loops of the fabric without damaging them. For lightweight jersey knits, a finer needle such as size 70/10 is recommended while medium and heavyweight knits may require a larger size.

In terms of thread, regular polyester thread works well for jersey knits. However, if you want more stretch in your seams, consider using woolly nylon thread in your bobbin as it has more give than regular thread.

Cutting and Sewing Techniques

When cutting out your pattern pieces, it is essential to use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to avoid snagging or pulling the fabric. Also, make sure to cut with the grainline rather than against it to maintain stretchiness in your garment. As mentioned before, keeping your fabric flat and using weights or pins will help prevent curling and distortion.

For sewing seams on jersey knit fabric, it is recommended to use a stretch stitch such as a narrow zigzag or lightning bolt stitch. These stitches allow for more give without breaking when the fabric stretches. It is also important to avoid pulling or stretching the fabric while sewing as this can cause puckering and uneven stitching.

Another tip for successful sewing with jersey knit is using a walking foot on your sewing machine. This foot helps feed the fabric evenly through the machine and prevents any slipping that can occur with jersey knits.

Finishing Touches

Once your garment is sewn, it is essential to finish the raw edges. If you have a serger, this is the perfect time to use it. Sergers provide a clean and professional finish to raw edges of jersey knit fabric. However, if you do not have a serger, using a zigzag stitch or overlock stitch on your sewing machine will also work.

For hems, it is recommended to use a twin needle rather than a single needle. This creates two parallel rows of stitching on the outside and provides more stretch compared to using a single row of stitching. Lastly, make sure to press your seams throughout the sewing process to create a polished look.

Sewing with jersey knit fabric may require some practice, but with these tips and techniques, you will be able to create beautiful garments that are comfortable and stylish. Remember to take your time and experiment with different stitches and techniques until you find what works best for you and your fabric. With patience and attention to detail, sewing with jersey knit fabric will become second nature. Happy sewing!

Understanding Jersey Knit Fabric

Jersey knit fabric is a type of knit fabric that is commonly used for making clothing items such as t-shirts, dresses, and leggings. It’s soft, stretchy, and drapes well, making it a popular choice for comfortable clothing. Jersey knit fabric is made from one continuous thread that is knitted in a series of loops, resulting in a smooth and even surface.

This type of fabric can be made from various materials such as cotton, polyester, viscose, or a blend of these fibers. Each material has its own unique properties and will affect the overall look and feel of the fabric. For example, 100% cotton jersey knit is soft, breathable, and perfect for summer clothing while polyester jersey knit is more durable and wrinkle-resistant.

Jersey knit fabric can also come in different weights or thicknesses. The denser the knit, the thicker the fabric will be. This means that jersey knit can range from lightweight and sheer to heavy and opaque. When sewing with jersey knit fabric, it’s important to consider the weight of the fabric to determine the appropriate needle size and stitch length.

Choosing the Right Needle

When it comes to sewing with jersey knit fabric, choosing the right needle is crucial for achieving professional-looking results. The most suitable needle for sewing with jersey knits is a ballpoint or stretch needle. These needles have rounded tips that allow them to slide between the yarns without damaging or causing runs in the delicate fibers.

A standard needle has a sharp tip that can cause skipped stitches or tears in the jersey knit fabric. Using a ballpoint needle ensures smooth stitching without distorting or stretching out the fabric. It’s also important to use a new needle for every project as old needles can become dull over time which may result in stitching issues.

The size of the needle should also be considered when sewing jersey knit fabric. A smaller needle size is preferable for lightweight knits while a larger size will work better for thicker knits. As a general rule, use a needle size that corresponds to the weight of the fabric, with lighter fabrics requiring smaller needles and heavier fabrics requiring larger ones.

Preparing and Cutting Jersey Knit Fabric

Before you start sewing with jersey knit fabric, it’s important to prepare it properly. Since jersey knit is stretchy, it’s prone to stretching out of shape during sewing. To prevent this, prewash your fabric using cold water and a gentle detergent, and let it air dry.

Cutting jersey knit fabric can be tricky as it can shift easily, resulting in uneven or crooked edges. To make cutting easier and more accurate, use pattern weights or pins to secure the fabric onto the pattern before cutting. Also, avoid using scissors as they can cause the fabric to stretch and result in jagged edges. A rotary cutter or serrated-edge scissors are better options for cutting jersey knit fabric.

When placing your pattern pieces on the fabric, make sure to follow the grainline indicated on the pattern. The grainline is important when working with any type of fabric, but especially with knits since they have more stretch in one direction than the other. Cutting against or off-grain will result in garments that are distorted and do not sit well on the body.

Sewing Techniques for Jersey Knit Fabric

Sewing with jersey knit fabric requires some special techniques to ensure professional results. Here are some tips for sewing with this slippery and stretchy material:

1) Use a walking foot: A walking foot helps feed the top layer of fabric through at an even pace which prevents puckering and stretching out of shape.

2) Use ballpoint pins: Pins with sharp points can damage or tear jersey knit fabrics. Ballpoint pins have rounded tips that slide between fibers without causing damage.

3) Use a stretch stitch: Most sewing machines have a stretch stitch option which is perfect for sewing jersey knit fabric. It allows the fabric to stretch and move without breaking the stitches.

4) Use a zig-zag stitch: If you don’t have a stretch stitch on your machine, a zig-zag stitch is an acceptable alternative. It has some give which helps prevent popped stitches.

5) Avoid backstitching: Backstitching at the beginning and end of a seam can cause puckering in jersey knit fabric. Instead, leave long thread tails and tie them off by hand.

Finishing Touches

To achieve a professional finish when sewing with jersey knit fabric, it’s essential to use proper hemming techniques. For instance, serging or using a coverstitch machine is perfect for creating neat and durable hems on knit fabrics. A twin needle is also an option for hemming as it creates two rows of stitches on the top of the fabric and a zig-zag stitch on the back, allowing for stretch in the hem.

Another important finishing touch is pressing your seams. While pressing may seem counterintuitive when working with knits, it actually helps set the stitches and prevents

Q: What is jersey knit fabric?
A: Jersey knit fabric is a type of stretchy textile made from a knit stitch, typically made of cotton, wool, or synthetic fibers.

Q: What makes jersey knit fabric different from other fabrics?
A: Jersey knit fabric has a distinct stretchiness and elasticity that sets it apart. It also tends to be lightweight and breathable, making it ideal for clothing.

Q: Can I use a regular sewing machine for sewing jersey knit fabric?
A: Absolutely! A regular sewing machine can work well for sewing jersey knit fabric, as long as you use the right type of needle and adjust the settings accordingly.

Q: What type of needle should I use for sewing jersey knit fabric?
A: It is recommended to use a ballpoint or stretch needle when sewing with jersey knit fabric. These needles have rounded tips that can easily slide between the fibers without damaging them.

Q: How should I adjust my sewing machine settings when working with jersey knit fabric?
A: To prevent puckering or stretching of the fabric, it is best to set your machine to a medium stitch length and decrease the tension slightly. You may also want to use a walking foot attachment for more even feeding of the fabric.

Q: Is there a special technique for hemming jersey knit fabric?
A: Yes, using a twin needle can create a professional-looking hem on jersey knit fabric. Alternatively, you can also use a zigzag stitch or serger to finish the raw edges. Remember to stretch the fabric slightly as you sew to prevent puckering.

In conclusion, learning how to sew with jersey knit fabric can be a valuable skill that can greatly enhance your sewing abilities. With its stretch and drape, jersey knit is versatile and comfortable to wear, making it a popular choice for clothing and other projects. However, working with jersey knit can also present certain challenges, such as understanding its stretch and learning the right sewing techniques. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you can successfully sew with jersey knit and create beautiful garments and accessories.

First and foremost, it is important to choose the right type of jersey knit for your project. Understanding the different types available, such as single or double knit, will help you select the appropriate fabric for your desired outcome. Additionally, taking proper preparation steps such as pre-washing and stabilizing will ensure that your finished product maintains its shape and size.

When it comes to handling jersey knit while sewing, using the correct needles and stitches is essential. Ballpoint needles are specifically designed for knits and help prevent snagging or tearing of the fabric. Utilizing stretch stitches or a zigzag stitch will also allow the fabric to maintain its stretch while being sewn.

Furthermore, being mindful of seam allowances and grainlines is crucial when working with delicate knits. These factors greatly influence the overall

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Jill Nammar
My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.