Mastering the Art of Sewing with Knit Fabrics: A Step-by-Step Guide

AvatarByJill Nammar Sewing

Are you ready to learn how to sew with knit fabrics? The stretchy and versatile nature of knit fabrics can intimidate even experienced sewers, but fear not! With the right techniques and some helpful tips, you can master sewing with knits in no time. In this article, we will guide you through the ins and outs of working with knits, so you can create comfortable and stylish garments for yourself and your loved ones. Whether you’re a beginner or looking to expand your skills, read on to discover how to sew with knit fabrics like a pro.

Understanding Knit Fabrics

Knit fabrics are a popular choice for many sewing projects due to their versatile nature and comfortable feel. Unlike woven fabrics, which are made by interweaving vertical and horizontal threads, knit fabrics are made by interlocking a series of loops together. This gives the fabric its signature stretch and allows it to mold to the body’s shape. Knit fabrics also have a different appearance than woven fabrics, as they have a more textured and ribbed surface.

There are several types of knit fabrics, including jersey, interlock, rib knit, and French terry. Each type has its unique characteristics, such as weight, stretchiness, and drape. Jersey knit is one of the most common and can be found in T-shirts and leggings. Interlock knit is thicker and more stable than jersey knit but still retains its stretchiness. Rib knit has raised vertical lines on one side of the fabric and is often used for cuffs and collars. French terry has a smooth surface with a looped backside, making it perfect for cozy garments like sweatshirts.

Choosing the Right Knit Fabric for Your Project

When sewing with knit fabrics, it’s crucial to choose the right type of fabric for your project. Consider the garment’s purpose and what qualities you need from the fabric to ensure its success. Here are some factors to consider when selecting a knit fabric:
– Weight: The weight of the knit fabric will determine how warm or light your garment will be. Lighter knits work well for summer garments, while heavier knits are ideal for colder weather.
– Stretch: Different types of knits have varying degrees of stretchiness. While some may have minimal stretch like rib knits, others can stretch up to four times their original size.
– Stability: How stable your chosen fabric is will impact how easy or challenging it is to sew. Thinner, more delicate knits may require extra care and techniques to prevent stretching, while thicker knits are more forgiving.
– Drape: Drape refers to how a fabric falls and hangs on the body. Knit fabrics with more drape will hug the body’s curves, while those with less drape will have a looser, more relaxed fit.

It’s also essential to consider the fiber content of the knit fabric you choose. Common fibers used in knit fabrics include cotton, polyester, rayon, and spandex. Each type has its unique properties and may affect the garment’s overall look and feel.

Preparing Your Fabric for Sewing

Before starting your sewing project with knit fabrics, some preparation is necessary to ensure success. Here are some steps you can take to prepare your fabric:
– Pre-washing: Unlike woven fabrics that need pre-washing to avoid shrinkage after sewing, knit fabrics often need pre-washing to remove any sizing or finishing chemicals that could cause shrinkage in the future.
– Stabilizing: Some delicate knit fabrics may require stabilizing before cutting and sewing. This can be done by applying fusible interfacing or tissue paper on the wrong side of the fabric.
– Cutting: To prevent stretched or uneven edges, it’s best to use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter when cutting out your pattern pieces. Be sure to follow the grainline indicated on your pattern for best results.

Tools and Techniques for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Sewing with knit fabrics requires a slightly different approach than sewing with woven fabrics. Here are some tools and techniques that will help you achieve a professional finish:
– Ballpoint needles: When using a sewing machine, it’s best to use ballpoint needles designed specifically for stretchy materials like knit fabrics. These needles have rounded tips instead of sharp points, preventing them from piercing through the fabric.
– Serger: While not necessary, a serger machine can make sewing with knit fabrics easier and produce a more professional-looking finish. It trims the edges of the fabric while simultaneously encasing them in a neat overlock stitch.
– Walking foot: A walking foot is an attachment that can be added to a sewing machine to help feed knit fabrics through more evenly. It prevents one layer of fabric from stretching more than another, resulting in a smoother stitch.
– Stretch stitches or techniques: Instead of using a straight stitch, which can cause the threads to break when stretched, try using a zigzag stitch or other stretch stitches on your sewing machine. You can also use techniques such as staystitching and easing in seams to prevent stretching while sewing.

Troubleshooting Knit Fabric Sewing Issues

Even with careful preparation and the right tools and techniques, you may still encounter some common issues when sewing with knit fabrics. Here are some solutions to these problems:
– Skipped stitches: This often occurs when using a straight stitch on knit fabrics. Try using a stretch stitch or holding onto both thread tails at the beginning of your seam for better stitching.
– Puckering: If your seams are puckering

The Basics of Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Knit fabrics are a popular choice among sewers due to their versatility and comfortable, stretchy nature. However, many beginners may find sewing with knits intimidating because they can be more challenging to work with compared to woven fabrics. The good news is, with the right techniques and tips, anyone can master working with knits. In this article, we will guide you through the basics of sewing with knit fabrics.

Understanding Knit Fabrics

Before we dive into the techniques, it’s essential to understand what knit fabrics are and how they differ from non-knit fabrics. Unlike woven fabrics that are made by weaving warp and weft yarns together, knit fabrics are made by interlooping a single yarn in various patterns. This results in a fabric that has more stretch and drape than woven fabrics. Common types of knit fabrics include jersey, interlock, rib knit, and French terry.

Choosing the Right Needle

When sewing with knits, your choice of needle is crucial. Using the wrong type of needle can result in skipped stitches or holes in your fabric. The most suitable needle for sewing with knits is a ballpoint or jersey needle. These needles have a rounded tip that allows them to push between the yarns without damaging them. Avoid using sharp needles as they can easily pierce through the knit loops.

The Importance of Stitching Techniques

Stitching techniques play a significant role when it comes to sewing with knits. Unlike woven fabrics where you use straight stitches, knits require stretch stitches to accommodate the fabric’s stretchiness without causing it to pucker or break apart. Some popular stitches for sewing knits include straight stretch stitch, zig-zag stitch, triple stretch stitch, and lightning bolt stitch. Experiment with different stitches on a scrap piece of fabric to find the one that works best for your project.

Using the Right Thread

Just like needles, using the right thread is crucial when sewing with knits. Regular cotton or polyester thread can break easily when used on knits due to their stretchy nature. Instead, opt for an all-purpose or polyester stretch thread that can better accommodate the fabric’s stretch. It’s also essential to adjust your machine’s tension according to the type of thread you’re using to achieve balanced stitches.

Tips for Cutting Knit Fabrics

Cutting knit fabrics is a bit different compared to cutting woven fabrics. When working with knit fabrics, it’s best to use a rotary cutter and self-healing mat rather than scissors. This will help prevent stretching and distortion of the fabric while cutting. Also, avoid pulling or tugging on the fabric while cutting as this can cause it to warp and lose its shape.

Dealing with Stretchy Seams

Sewing seams on knits can be a bit tricky due to their stretchiness. To prevent puckering or distorted seams, it’s essential to stabilize them beforehand. You can do this by using stabilizing techniques such as fusible interfacing, clear elastic, or stay tape along the seam lines. These will help keep your seams in place while maintaining the fabric’s stretch.

Finishing Techniques for Knit Fabrics

When finishing hems and edges on knit garments, you have several options depending on your project’s type and desired result. Some popular finishing techniques include serging, zig-zag stitching, coverstitching, and flat-locking. Experiment with these techniques to see which one works best for your project.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with proper techniques and tips, sewing with knits can still encounter some issues. The most common ones include skipped stitches, puckered seams, and uneven stitches. To troubleshoot these issues, try changing your needle to a new one or adjusting your machine’s tension. If the problem persists, check your stitch length and experiment with different stitches.

Caring for Knit Fabrics

Proper care is essential for maintaining the quality and durability of your knit garments. It’s recommended to wash and dry them on gentle cycles with mild detergent, then lay them flat to dry. Avoid using high heat on knits as it can cause them to shrink or lose their shape.

Final Thoughts

Sewing with knit fabrics may seem daunting at first, but with practice and patience, anyone can master this versatile fabric. Remember to use the right tools, techniques, and thread for the best results. Don’t be afraid to experiment and troubleshoot any issues that may arise. With these tips in mind, you’ll be able to sew comfortable and stylish knit garments in no time!

Q: What kind of stitches should I use when sewing with knit fabrics?
A: For sewing seams on knit fabrics, a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch would work best. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the seams.

Q: Can I use a regular sewing machine for sewing knits or do I need a special machine?
A: You can use a regular sewing machine as long as it has adjustable settings for stitch length and width. However, using a serger or an overlock machine can make the process easier and give more professional results.

Q: Should I prewash my knit fabrics before sewing?
A: It is recommended to prewash your knit fabrics before sewing to prevent shrinkage after the garment is made. This also helps to get rid of any fabric sizing or chemicals that may affect the quality of your project.

Q: How do I handle stretchy fabrics when cutting out pattern pieces?
A: While cutting out pattern pieces from stretchy fabrics, it is important to use sharp scissors and make sure that the fabric is laying flat without any wrinkles. Using pattern weights instead of pins can also prevent distortion of the fabric.

Q: How do I finish the edges of my knit fabric project?
A: For finishing edges on knit fabric projects, you can either use a zigzag stitch or overcasting stitch on your regular sewing machine. Another option is to use binding or fold over elastic for a neat and professional-looking finish.

Q: Can I sew different types of knits together in one project?
A: While it is possible to sew different types of knits together in one project, it is important to consider their weight and stretchability. If using different types of knits, test them first on scrap pieces before sewing them together in your project.

In conclusion, sewing with knit fabrics may seem daunting at first, but with the right techniques and know-how, it can be a fun and rewarding experience. The key to successful sewing with knits lies in understanding the properties of the fabric and using appropriate tools and stitches. From choosing the right needle and thread to mastering essential techniques like stretching and cutting, this guide has covered everything you need to know to get started.

Remember to always pre-wash your fabrics, use a walking foot or ballpoint needle when sewing, and don’t be afraid to experiment with different stitches to achieve the desired result. Also, keep in mind that practice makes perfect, so don’t get discouraged if your first few attempts are not perfect.

Sewing with knit fabrics opens up a world of possibilities for creating comfortable and stylish garments. With its stretchy and forgiving nature, knits are perfect for everyday wear as well as more specialized activewear or lingerie. Plus, using sustainable knit fabrics like organic cotton or bamboo can also make your sewing projects environmentally-friendly.

Whether you are a beginner or an experienced seamstress, this guide has provided you with comprehensive information on how to successfully sew with knit fabrics. So grab your machine, some quality knits, and let your creativity run wild! With the tips and

Author Profile

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Jill Nammar
My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.