Sew Like a Pro: Mastering Lycra Spandex in 5 Simple Steps

AvatarByJill Nammar Sewing

Are you ready to take your sewing skills to the next level? Look no further than learning how to sew with lycra spandex. This versatile and stretchy fabric has become increasingly popular in the fashion industry, and for good reason – it creates form-fitting garments that are both comfortable and stylish. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced seamstress, this article will guide you through the steps to successfully sew with lycra spandex and create your own custom-made pieces. Get ready to unleash your creativity and make some fashion-forward designs with this ultimate guide on how to sew lycra spandex.

What is Lycra Spandex?

Lycra spandex, also known as elastane or simply just spandex, is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. It was first developed in the late 1950s by chemist Joseph C. Shivers Jr. while working for chemical company DuPont. The name “Lycra” was chosen as a marketing strategy and is now used as a generic term for all spandex fibers.

Lycra spandex is made up of a long-chain polymer called polyurethane, which is produced from petrochemicals. It is then combined with other materials, such as nylon or polyester, to create a stretchable fabric that can expand up to six times its original length without losing its shape.

This miraculous fabric has become widely popular due to its unique properties and is commonly used in athletic and performance wear, swimwear, intimate apparel, and even medical garments. Its ability to stretch and recover makes it an essential material for clothing that requires optimal flexibility and comfort.

Why Sewing Lycra Spandex Requires Special Techniques

Working with Lycra spandex can be challenging if you are not familiar with the right techniques. The key to sewing this fabric successfully lies in understanding its stretch and recovery properties.

Unlike other fabrics, Lycra spandex has a high degree of elasticity and tends to spring back into shape when stretched. This can make it difficult to sew seams because the fabric may slip and distort while stitching. Additionally, traditional straight stitches may not have enough give to accommodate the fabric’s stretch, causing them to break easily.

Therefore special sewing techniques must be used when working with Lycra spandex to ensure the final product looks professional and holds up well during wear.

Choosing the Right Tools

The first step in sewing Lycra spandex starts with selecting the right tools. Working with the wrong tools can lead to frustration and may damage the fabric.

When cutting Lycra spandex, it is essential to have a sharp rotary cutter or a pair of scissors specifically designed for cutting stretch fabrics. This will ensure clean and precise cuts without distorting or pulling on the fabric.

Additionally, using ballpoint needles designed for knits is crucial when sewing Lycra spandex. These needles have a rounded tip that allows them to slip between the fibers rather than piercing through them, reducing the risk of snags and runs in the fabric.

Prepare Before You Start Sewing

Before starting your sewing project, it is essential to take some time to prepare your fabric. Pre-washing and drying your Lycra spandex on low heat will allow it to shrink if needed before you start sewing. This step is crucial as some fabrics may shrink after washing.

Next, stabilize your fabric by sandwiching it between two layers of tissue paper and basting along the edges before cutting your pattern pieces. This trick helps prevent distortion and shifting while cutting and sewing, ensuring more accurate results.

Sewing Techniques for Lycra Spandex

When it comes to actually sewing Lycra spandex, there are a few techniques that can help achieve professional results.

One method is using an overlock or serger machine with four-thread overlock stitches. This type of stitch provides a high degree of elasticity, making it ideal for seams that need to stretch without breaking. However, not everyone has access to an overlock machine, so using a zigzag stitch with a regular sewing machine can also work well if done correctly.

Another technique is using a walking foot attachment on your sewing machine. This attachment prevents fabric from slipping while stitching, ensuring even feeding of the layers without distortion.

Additionally, avoid stretching the fabric while sewing by gently easing the fabric through the machine, allowing it to feed naturally. This will help prevent puckering and wavy seams.

Finishing Touches

Once your garment is sewn together, there are a few finishing touches that will give it a professional look. Using a coverstitch machine for hems and edges is recommended as this stitch allows for flexibility and stretch while keeping the edges neat and clean.

If you do not have access to a coverstitch machine, using a twin needle with your sewing machine can also create a similar effect. Another option is to fold over the edge twice and use a zigzag or stretch stitch along the hemline.

Lastly, trim any excess thread ends from your garment and consider using seam sealant along the raw edges to prevent fraying.

Sewing with Lycra spandex may seem daunting at first, but with some knowledge of its properties and correct techniques, it can become an enjoyable experience. Always remember to use the right tools, prepare your fabric before cutting, and implement appropriate sewing techniques for more professional results. With practice, you’ll soon master sewing Lycra spandex and create stunning garments that showcase its incredible stretch and recovery abilities.

What is Lycra Spandex?

While many people are familiar with the term “spandex” and may even own clothing made from this material, fewer are familiar with the specific type of spandex known as Lycra. Lycra is actually a brand name for a type of synthetic elastic fiber developed by DuPont in the late 1950s. It is made from a combination of polyester and polyurethane, making it extremely stretchy and durable.

Unlike other types of spandex, Lycra is known for its exceptional elasticity, able to stretch up to five times its original length without breaking. This makes it an ideal option for garments that require a high degree of stretch, such as activewear, dancewear, and swimwear.

The Benefits of Sewing with Lycra Spandex

One of the main benefits of using Lycra spandex in your sewing projects is its ability to provide a comfortable and form-fitting fit. The material moves with your body, allowing for ease of movement and preventing any restrictions or discomfort. This makes it a popular choice for workout clothing and athleisure wear.

In addition, Lycra spandex is highly resistant to tears and abrasions, making it a durable option for garments that will be subjected to wear and tear. It also has excellent recovery properties, meaning it will retain its shape even after multiple uses and washes.

Another benefit of sewing with Lycra spandex is its versatility. The material comes in a variety of weights and finishes, offering options for different types of projects. For example, heavier-weight Lycra spandex may be used for leggings or other athletic wear while lighter-weight options may be suitable for dance attire or swimwear.

Tips for Sewing with Lycra Spandex

While sewing with Lycra spandex can be rewarding, it also requires some specific techniques to achieve the best results. Here are some tips to keep in mind when working with this material:

– To prevent the fabric from slipping, use sharp pins to hold the pieces together.
– When sewing, use a stretch or ballpoint needle to avoid damaging the fabric.
– Adjust your sewing machine’s tension to a lower setting, as high tension can cause puckering and uneven stitching on stretchy fabrics.
– Consider using a walking foot or stretch stitch for added support and stretchability.
– Use a serger or overlock machine to finish raw edges for a clean and professional look.

How to Sew with Lycra Spandex

When it comes to sewing with Lycra spandex, there are a few techniques that can help you achieve a clean and polished result. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to sew with this versatile material:

Step 1: Prepare your materials. Before you start sewing, be sure to prewash your fabric and allow it to dry completely. This will prevent any shrinkage or warping of the fabric after you have completed your project.

Step 2: Choose your pattern carefully. Lycra spandex is best used for garments that require stretchiness, so make sure you choose a pattern specifically designed for stretch fabrics.

Step 3: Cut your fabric. Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to cut out your pattern pieces. Make sure you cut along the direction of greatest stretch (usually indicated by arrows on the pattern).

Step 4: Pin and sew. As mentioned earlier, use sharp pins to hold your pieces together before sewing. Adjust your machine settings as needed and use an appropriate stitch for stretch fabrics.

Step 5: Finish raw edges. To prevent fraying and give your project a professional touch, consider using an overlock stitch or serger to finish raw edges.

Step 6: Try on and adjust. Once you have completed your project, make sure to try it on and make any necessary adjustments for fit and comfort.

Caring for Lycra Spandex

To ensure your sewing projects made from Lycra spandex last as long as possible, it’s important to take proper care of them. Here are some tips for caring for garments made from this material:

– Always check the care label before washing to determine the best method for cleaning.
– In general, Lycra spandex can be hand or machine washed in cold water with a gentle detergent.
– Do not use bleach or fabric softener, as these can damage the fabric.
– Hang or lay flat to dry. Avoid using the dryer as heat can cause shrinkage.
– If ironing is necessary, use a low heat setting (if at all) and place a lightweight cloth between the iron and the fabric.

Sewing with Lycra spandex may seem daunting at first, but with the right techniques and a little practice, you can create beautiful and comfortable garments that will last. This versatile fabric offers many benefits, including exceptional stretch and recovery properties, durability, and versatility in weight and finish options

1. What is the best way to sew Lycra spandex fabric?
The best way to sew Lycra spandex fabric is to use a special needle, specifically a stretch or ballpoint needle. This type of needle is designed to prevent skipped stitches and creates smooth, even stitches on stretchy materials like Lycra spandex.

2. Do I need any special tools to sew Lycra spandex?
In addition to a stretch or ballpoint needle, it is recommended to use polyester thread and a walking foot when sewing Lycra spandex. These tools will help prevent puckering and ensure even stitching on the fabric.

3. How can I prevent my Lycra spandex from puckering while sewing?
To prevent puckering, it is important to use the correct needle, thread, and foot for sewing Lycra spandex. It is also helpful to lightly stretch the fabric as you sew, and reduce the pressure on your presser foot if possible.

4. Can I use a regular sewing machine for sewing Lycra spandex?
Yes, you can use a regular sewing machine for sewing Lycra spandex as long as you have the recommended tools – stretch or ballpoint needle, polyester thread, and walking foot. However, if you plan on working with thicker or multiple layers of fabric, an industrial machine may be more suitable.

5. Do I need to prewash my Lycra spandex before sewing?
It is not necessary to prewash your Lycra spandex before sewing as it does not shrink much when washed. However, it is always a good idea to test your fabric first by washing a small piece and seeing how it holds up before making your final garment.

6. How do I finish raw edges of Lyrca spandex fabric?
To finish raw edges of Lycra spandex, you can either use a serger or a stretch stitch on your sewing machine. A serger sews and trims the edge of the fabric at the same time, while a stretch stitch is designed to allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the stitches. Alternatively, you can use a zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine to prevent fraying.

In conclusion, learning how to sew with Lycra spandex can be an exciting and rewarding skill to acquire. Throughout this guide, we have covered the essential steps and techniques needed to successfully create garments with this versatile fabric. It is crucial to choose the right tools, machine settings, and stitching techniques for optimal results. Additionally, understanding the properties of Lycra spandex and how it behaves when stretched is crucial in achieving a professional-looking finish.

One of the most important takeaways from this guide is the importance of practice and patience when sewing with Lycra spandex. It may take some time to master the complexities of working with this fabric, but with perseverance, you can achieve excellent results. Remember to always use quality materials and invest in a reliable sewing machine. These will go a long way in making your sewing experience with Lycra spandex more enjoyable.

Furthermore, as you continue on your journey of working with Lycra spandex, don’t be afraid to experiment and try out new techniques. This will not only help you develop your skills but also enable you to create unique and personalized garments. Always keep in mind that mistakes are part of the learning process, so don’t get discouraged when things don’t turn out perfectly on your first try.

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Jill Nammar
My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.