Master the Art of Sewing Knit Material: A Step-by-Step Guide

Knitting is a timeless craft that has been enjoyed by people all over the world for centuries. From cozy sweaters to intricate scarves, the possibilities are endless when it comes to creating beautiful and unique pieces using knitting techniques. But what about when it comes to sewing with knit materials? For beginner knitters and experienced crafters alike, working with stretchy knit fabrics can be a bit intimidating. That’s why we’ve put together this guide on how to sew knit material, so you can expand your crafting skills and create stunning garments that are both comfortable and stylish. Whether you’re new to sewing or just looking for some helpful tips, keep reading to discover everything you need to know about sewing with knit fabrics!

Understanding Knit Material

Knit material is a popular choice for sewing projects because of its stretch and comfortable feel. It is commonly used in making clothing, such as T-shirts, dresses, and sweaters. Knit fabric is made by interlocking loops of yarn together, which creates a distinctive textured appearance. There are different types of knit materials available, each with its unique characteristics and uses.

Types of Knit Fabric

There are two main categories of knit fabric: weft knits and warp knits. Weft knits are the most common type and are created by using a single thread to form rows of loops that run across the fabric’s width. The most common weave for weft knits is jersey knit, which creates a soft and stretchy material.

On the other hand, warp knits use multiple threads to form loops that run down the length of the fabric. This creates a stronger and less stretchy material compared to weft knit fabrics. Examples of warp knit fabrics include tricot and raschel.

Other types of knit fabrics include double-knit (which has two layers), rib knit (with raised ribbed lines), and cable knit (which creates a cable pattern).

Characteristics of Knit Fabric

Knit fabric has a unique set of characteristics that make it different from woven fabrics. The most prominent feature is its stretchability, which makes it more comfortable to wear and allows for easy movement. This also makes it more forgiving when fitting clothing on different body shapes.

Another characteristic is its breathability. Knit material allows air to flow through easily, making it suitable for warmer climates or physical activities where sweat can be an issue.

Additionally, knit fabric tends to be lighter in weight compared to woven materials, making it ideal for creating comfortable everyday wear items or activewear.

Tips for Choosing Knit Material

When choosing a knit fabric for your sewing project, it is essential to consider its weight, stretch, and drape. Knit material comes in various weights, from lightweight (such as jersey) to heavyweight (like cable knit). Heavier knits are best for more structured garments, while lightweight knits are better for flowy and drapey styles.

Stretch is also an important factor to consider. Some knits have more stretch than others, so be sure to check the labels before purchasing. It is also helpful to do a stretch test by pulling the fabric in all directions to see how much it stretches and how quickly it bounces back.

Lastly, pay attention to the drape of the fabric. Drape refers to how the fabric falls or hangs when made into a garment. Some knits have a more relaxed drape, while others have a more structured drape. Consider what kind of garment you want to make and choose a knit with an appropriate drape for that style.

Sewing with Knit Fabric

Sewing with knit fabric can be intimidating, especially if you are used to working with woven materials. However, once you get the hang of it, the process is quite simple and rewarding. Here are some tips for sewing with knit fabric:

Choosing the Right Needle

One crucial step when sewing with knit fabric is using the right needle. A universal needle may work for some knits; however, it is best to use a ballpoint or stretch needle designed explicitly for knits. These needles have rounded tips that push aside the fibers of the fabric instead of piercing them, minimizing damage and creating smoother stitches.

Using Stretch Stitches

Another important tip is using appropriate stitches for knits. Straight stitches tend to break on stretchy fabrics like knit; therefore, it is best to use stitches with some give, such as the zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread.

Some sewing machines also have specialized stretch stitches that are perfect for knit fabrics. If your machine has these stitches, be sure to experiment with them and see which one works best for your project.

Taming Curls and Waves

One challenge that beginners face when sewing knits is dealing with curling and waving edges. Knitted fabric has a tendency to curl, making it difficult to keep the edges aligned when stitching. To avoid this, you can use a rotary cutter and cutting mat instead of scissors. This will help you achieve cleaner, straighter edges.

To prevent waves in seams, stay stitch or use stabilizing tape or fabric along the seamline before stitching. This will help keep the seam flat and prevent any stretching or puckering.

Finishing Techniques

Finishing techniques are crucial for creating professional-looking garments with knit fabric. Serger machines are often used for finishing seams in knit projects, but you can also achieve a clean finish using your regular sewing machine.

One technique is called a mock serger/overlock stitch, which mimics a ser

Understanding the Basics of Sewing with Knit Fabric

Sewing with knit fabric may seem daunting to beginners, but once you understand the basics, you’ll find it’s not as complicated as it seems. Knit fabric, also known as jersey, is a stretchy material that is commonly used for making comfortable and flexible garments such as t-shirts, dresses, and activewear. Unlike woven fabrics that have little to no stretch, knit fabric can stretch in both horizontal and vertical directions.

But because of its stretchiness, sewing with knit fabric requires different techniques and handling compared to woven fabrics. In this guide, we’ll break down the key elements of sewing with knit fabric and guide you through the process of creating your own knit garments.

Choose the Right Needle and Thread

One of the most crucial aspects of sewing with knit fabric is using the right needle and thread. Using a regular sewing needle intended for woven fabric will not work on knits as it can snag or pull on the delicate fibers. Instead, opt for a ballpoint or stretch needle specifically designed for knit fabrics. These needles have rounded tips that allow them to slip between the fibers instead of piercing through them.

As for thread, make sure to use a polyester or polyester blend thread that has some give and elasticity to match the stretchiness of your chosen knits. Cotton or all-purpose threads tend to snap when stretched, resulting in broken stitches.

The Importance of Pre-Shrinking Your Knit Fabric

Like any other type of fabric, it’s important to pre-shrink your knit material before sewing with it. Even though most manufacturers claim their knits are pre-shrunk, there may still be some residual shrinkage that can cause your finished garment to become misshapen after washing.

To prevent this from happening, wash your knit fabric using cold water on a gentle cycle and then tumble dry on low heat. You can also hand wash your knit fabric in cold water and line dry it. Once your fabric is dry, press it with a cool iron to remove any wrinkles before cutting out your pattern.

Mastering the Cutting Process

Cutting knit fabric is not as straightforward as cutting woven fabrics. Knits have a tendency to curl at the edges, making it challenging to cut precisely. To avoid this, lay your fabric flat on a cutting mat or table and use pattern weights instead of regular pins to keep the fabric in place. You can also use spray stabilizer or temporary adhesive spray to help keep the fabric from shifting.

Another important tip when cutting knits is to use a rotary cutter instead of scissors. Rotary cutters make clean and precise cuts without pulling or stretching the fabric, resulting in more accurate pieces for sewing.

Handling Stretchy Seams

Seam allowance is crucial when sewing with knits as it affects the fit and stretchiness of your garment. Most patterns designed for knits will have a recommended seam allowance of ⅜ inch or less. To ensure you have consistent seam allowances, use a clear elastic guide or adjust the width of your presser foot before sewing.

Another technique for preventing stretching while sewing is using tissue paper under your stitches. Simply place tissue paper between your layers of knit fabric and sew through it. Once you’re done stitching, gently tear off the paper from the seam.

Making Hemming Easier with Double Needles

Hemming knits can be tricky as they tend to curl up at the edges, making it difficult to get a straight stitch. Using double needles can help create professional-looking hems while providing some give for stretchy fabrics.

Double needles are special needles that have two needles attached to one shank which creates two parallel rows of stitches on the right side of your fabric. Make sure to adjust your machine’s tension and test on a scrap piece of fabric before stitching your actual hemline.

Tips for Handling Different Types of Knit Fabric

There are various types of knit fabrics available, and each one may require different handling techniques. Here are some tips on sewing with some common types of knits:

– Cotton Jersey: Usually easy to work with, cotton jersey can be sewn with a regular straight stitch. It has minimal stretch and is great for beginner sewers.
– Interlock Knit: This type of knit is thicker and has more structure compared to other knits, making it easier to sew. Use a zigzag stitch for best results.
– Rib Knit: Rib knits have more stretch in one direction compared to the other, so make sure you place your pattern pieces correctly to utilize this stretch properly.
– Sweater Knit: Much thinner than other knits, sweater knits require extra care when sewing. Use a walking foot attachment or tissue paper under the seams to prevent stretching.

Finishing Techniques for Knit Garments

To ensure longevity in your handmade knit garments, here are some finishing techniques that you can

Q: What types of stitches are suitable for sewing knit material?
A: For knit material, the most commonly used stitches are the straight stitch, zigzag stitch, and stretch stitch. These stitches have enough flexibility to allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread.

Q: How can I prevent puckering when sewing knit material?
A: Puckering occurs when the fabric is stretched or pulled while sewing. To prevent this, use a walking foot or a ballpoint needle. Also, ensure that you are not pulling or stretching the fabric while sewing.

Q: Do I need to use a special foot or needle for sewing knit material?
A: It is recommended to use a ballpoint needle and a walking foot for best results when sewing knit material. The ballpoint needle prevents damage to the fabric while the walking foot helps feed the fabric evenly.

Q: How should I adjust my machine settings for sewing knit material?
A: Adjust your machine to a lower speed, looser tension, and longer stitch length when sewing knit material. This will help prevent puckering and aid in keeping the fabric smooth and flat.

Q: Can I use my regular thread for sewing knit material?
A: It is recommended to use polyester or cotton-polyester blend threads while sewing knit material. These threads have more stretch and flexibility compared to cotton thread which may break easily on stretchy fabrics.

Q: How do I finish raw edges when working with knit fabric?
A: Instead of using traditional methods like serging or using pinking shears, finish raw edges on knit fabric by using an overlock stitch or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying. Another option is to enclose raw edges with binding strips made from self-fabric or another stretchy material.

In conclusion, sewing with knit material can seem intimidating at first, but with the right techniques and knowledge, it can be an enjoyable and rewarding experience. The key to successful sewing with knits is understanding how these fabrics behave and choosing the appropriate stitches, needles, and tools. Proper preparation, handling, and finishing techniques are also crucial in achieving professional-looking results.

It is essential to remember that working with knit fabrics requires patience and practice. It may take some trial and error to find the right combination of techniques and materials that work for a specific project. By taking your time, practicing on scrap fabric, and being open to learning new techniques, you will become more confident in sewing with knits.

Another crucial aspect to keep in mind when sewing with knit material is selecting the right machines for the job. While a regular sewing machine can handle some knits, investing in a serger or an overlock machine can make a significant difference in the quality of your finished project.

Furthermore, always pay attention to the quality of your fabric while purchasing it. Opt for good quality knits that have good stretch recovery and are not too thin or flimsy. This will ensure your project’s longevity and make it easier to work with.

Finally, embracing imperfections is crucial when working with

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.