Mastering the Art of Sewing with Knit Fabric: A Comprehensive Guide

Sewing with knit fabric may seem like a daunting task, but with the right techniques and tips, anyone can master this versatile material. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced seamstress, understanding how to sew with knit fabric is essential for creating comfortable and stylish garments. In this article, we will explore the basics of working with knit fabric and provide you with valuable insights to help you achieve professional-looking results. From selecting the right needles and threads to mastering stretch stitches, get ready to unlock the secrets of sewing with knit fabric.

When it comes to sewing, one of the most versatile fabrics to work with is knit fabric. It’s soft, stretchy, and can be used to create a variety of garments such as t-shirts, dresses, and even activewear. However, for many beginners, sewing with knit fabric can seem daunting and challenging. After all, it behaves differently compared to woven fabrics. But fear not, with the right techniques and tips, anyone can learn how to sew with knit fabric like a pro. In this guide, we’ll cover the essential steps to successfully sewing with knit fabric.

Understanding Knit Fabric

Before diving into sewing techniques for knit fabric, it’s essential to first understand what it is and how it differs from woven fabrics. Knit fabric is created by interlocking yarn loops together rather than weaving them in a traditional over-under pattern like woven fabrics. This construction technique gives knit fabric its stretchy properties and makes it more comfortable to wear.

There are various types of knit fabrics available such as jersey knits, rib knits, and interlock knits. Each type has its unique characteristics that affect how it behaves when sewn. For example, jersey knits are lightweight and drapey while rib knits have more structure due to their ribbed texture. It’s essential to choose the right type of knit for your project to achieve the desired results.

Preparation before Sewing

Preparation is key when it comes to sewing with knit fabric. Before you start cutting or stitching, there are a few things you need to do.

1) Pre-wash your fabric: Knit fabric has a tendency to shrink when washed for the first time due to its stretchy nature. To prevent any mishaps after your garment is completed, make sure you pre-wash your fabric according to its care instructions.

2) Use the right tools: When sewing with knit fabric, it’s crucial to use the right tools to achieve professional results. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle specifically designed for knit fabrics. Regular needles can create snagged and uneven stitches. For cutting, use a pair of sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter.

3) Use a stabilizer: Some knit fabrics tend to roll at the edges, making it difficult to sew them without stretching or distorting them. To prevent this, use a lightweight stabilizer such as tear-away or wash-away stabilizer under the fabric while sewing.

Cutting the Fabric

Now that you are armed with the right tools and have prepped your fabric let’s move on to cutting. The key to successfully cutting knit fabric is to avoid stretching it while you cut.

1) Lay your fabric flat: Smooth out your fabric on a clean, flat surface. If using patterned knit, make sure that the pattern is straight and aligned before pinning.

2) Pin strategically: Avoid using too many pins as they can distort the stretchy nature of knits. Instead, pin along the seam allowance and at critical points where you need to match up pieces accurately.

3) Use weights: Instead of pinning, you can also use weights such as soup cans or washers placed along the edges of your pattern pieces to keep them in place while you cut.

4) Cut with a rotary cutter: A rotary cutter is an excellent tool for cutting knits as it allows for smoother cuts without pulling on the fabric. If using scissors, always lift instead of sliding them when cutting.

Sewing Techniques

Sewing with knit fabric requires some different techniques compared to sewing with woven fabrics. Here are some tips to help you achieve professional-looking stitches in your project:

1) Use a stretch stitch: Knit fabrics need stitches that can stretch along with them without breaking. For this reason, it’s best to use a stretch stitch such as a zigzag or lightning bolt stitch on your sewing machine. Alternatively, you can also use a double needle to create parallel rows of stitches.

2) Test your stitches: Before sewing your garment, test out different stitch lengths and tensions on a scrap piece of fabric. This will help you find the perfect settings for your particular knit fabric.

3) Be mindful of seam allowances: When sewing with knits, it’s essential not to stretch the fabric while stitching. To prevent this, sew with a slightly smaller seam allowance than what is recommended in the pattern.

4) Use stabilizers for seams: To strengthen and stabilize shoulder seams or other critical constructions, add a strip of lightweight interface to the wrong side of the fabric before sewing.

Finishing Touches

Once you have completed sewing your garment together, there are some finishing touches that can elevate its appearance and durability.

1) Finish raw edges: Knit fabrics tend to fray, so it’s crucial to finish any raw edges to prevent them from unraveling. You can do this by using a serger or overlocking stitch on your sewing machine or by using pinking shears.

2) Topstitch hems:

What is Knit Fabric?

Knit fabric is a type of woven material that is made from yarn or thread. It is known for its stretchiness and elasticity, which makes it the perfect choice for sewing garments that require a close fit to the body. Unlike other types of fabrics, knit fabric is created by interlocking yarns in a series of loops, creating a structure that allows it to stretch easily without losing its shape.

The Different Types of Knit Fabrics

There are several different types of knit fabrics available on the market, each with its own unique characteristics and uses. Some of the most common types include jersey, rib knit, interlock, and French terry.

Jersey is perhaps the most popular type of knit fabric. It has a smooth face on one side and a textured back, making it versatile for use in both fashion and athletic wear.

Rib knit has distinct vertical ridges on both sides and is commonly used for creating t-shirts and tank tops.

Interlock knits have two layers of jersey knit fabric spaced apart by an extra set of loops, creating a thicker and more stable material.

French terry is similar to regular terry cloth but with loops only on one side. This soft and absorbent fabric is often used for loungewear or activewear.

Sewing Tools Needed

To sew with knit fabric successfully, you will need some essential sewing tools. These include:

1. Ballpoint or Stretch Needle: Unlike regular needles that may cause snags or runs in your knit fabric, these special needles are designed to slip between the yarns without damaging them.

2. Sewing Machine: While you can certainly sew knits by hand, having a good quality sewing machine will make your job easier and more efficient.

3. Sewing Thread: For best results, use high-quality polyester thread or cotton-wrapped polyester thread when sewing with knits. These threads have the right amount of stretch and strength for knit fabrics.

4. Pins or Clips: When working with knit fabric, it is best to avoid using regular straight pins as they can cause holes and distort the fabric’s shape. Instead, opt for ballpoint pins or sewing clips that will not damage the material.

5. Sewing Machine Foot: A walking foot is highly recommended when sewing knits as it helps to feed the fabric through more smoothly and evenly, preventing any puckering or stretching.

Preparation Before Cutting

Before you start cutting your knit fabric, there are a few preparation steps you need to take to ensure your project turns out perfectly.

1. Prewash Your Fabric: Knit fabrics tend to shrink after washing, so it is crucial to prewash them before sewing to avoid any surprises later on.

2. Select The Right Pattern: To achieve the best results, it is essential to select a pattern designed specifically for knit fabrics. Using a pattern meant for woven fabrics may result in an ill-fitting garment.

3. Lay Out The Fabric Correctly: The way you lay out your cut pieces on the fabric can affect the stretch of your garment. Make sure the direction of stretch lines up with the direction of greatest body stress, such as across bust or hip measurements.

Cutting and Marking Knit Fabric

Cutting knit fabric can be tricky because it tends to shift while cutting and may distort under pressure from shears or scissors. Here are some tips to help you cut like a pro:

1. Use Weights Instead of Pins: Placing weights on top of your pattern pieces instead of pins will help keep your fabric in place without creating holes or distorting its shape.

2. Choose The Right Scissors: A pair of sharp, quality scissors will make a world of difference when cutting knit fabric. Rotary cutters are also a popular option for cutting precisely and without distortion.

3. Cut With The Grainline: Always cut your knit fabric in the same direction as the grainline (parallel to the selvage edge). This maximizes the fabric’s stretch and helps maintain its shape.

4. Marking Your Fabric: Use tailor’s chalk or a washable fabric marker to mark your pattern pieces without damaging the delicate knit fibers.

Sewing Tips and Techniques

Sewing with knit fabric may seem intimidating, but with a few techniques, you can get great results.

1. Choose The Right Stitch: When sewing knits, use a stretch stitch such as a zig-zag or a triple straight stitch that will allow your garment to stretch without breaking the thread.

2. Adjust Your Tension: Experiment with your sewing machine’s tension settings on scrap pieces of knit fabric until you find the right tension for your project. Adjusting the tension will prevent puckering or stretched out seams.

3. Use Stay Tape or Stabilizers: For curved seams such as necklines and armholes, use stay tape or stabilizer to reinforce the seam and prevent it from stretching out during sewing.

4. Test On Scrap Fabric

1. What is the best type of needle to use when sewing with knit fabric?
The best needle to use for sewing with knit fabric is a stretch needle. It has a rounded tip that helps prevent snags and skipped stitches.

2. Do I need to use a special foot for sewing with knit fabric?
Yes, using a walking foot or a ballpoint needle can make sewing with knit fabric easier. These specialized tools help prevent the fabric from stretching or getting caught in the machine.

3. How should I prepare my knit fabric before sewing?
It is important to pre-wash and dry your knit fabric before sewing to prevent shrinkage and ensure an accurate fit. Also, make sure to stabilize any hemlines and edges with fusible interfacing to prevent them from stretching out.

4. Should I use different stitches when sewing with knit fabric?
Yes, it is recommended to use stitches designed for stretch fabrics, such as the zigzag stitch or the triple stretch stitch. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread.

5. How do I prevent my seams from puckering when sewing with knit fabric?
To avoid puckered seams, try using a longer stitch length and holding the fabric taut while stitching. You can also try using tissue paper between your machine’s feed dogs and the fabric to help smooth out feed issues.

6. Can I sew buttonholes on knit fabric?
Yes, you can sew buttonholes on knit fabrics by stabilizing them first with interfacing or tissue paper. You may also want to test your buttonhole settings on scrap pieces of your specific knit fabric before trying it on your garment.

In conclusion, sewing with knit fabric may seem daunting at first, but with the right techniques and practices, it can become a simple and enjoyable task. From understanding the unique properties of knit fabric to selecting the right tools and equipment, every step in the process is crucial for achieving successful results.

We have discussed various tips and tricks for working with knit fabric, including pre-washing and drying, pinning and cutting techniques, as well as different stitching methods. It is important to remember that patience and practice are key in mastering this skill. Do not be afraid to make mistakes as they present an opportunity for growth and learning.

Furthermore, always choose a quality knit fabric that suits your project needs, whether it is a lightweight jersey or a heavy fleece. And don’t forget about the importance of using appropriate needles and thread for best results.

In addition to technical know-how, having a clear understanding of garment construction principles such as seam finishes and hemming is crucial for creating well-made garments with knit fabric.

With these tools at your disposal, you will be able to sew a wide variety of clothing items such as t-shirts, dresses, skirts, leggings, and more with ease. The versatility of knit fabric makes it a great choice for comfortable yet stylish clothing.

In conclusion, sewing with

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.