Mastering the Art of Sewing with Knit Fabrics: A Beginner's Guide

Sewing with knit fabrics can seem like a daunting task for many, especially if you are accustomed to working with woven fabrics. However, with the right techniques and tips, anyone can master the art of sewing with knits. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewer, learning how to sew with knit fabrics opens up a whole new world of possibilities for your wardrobe. In this article, we’ll take a closer look at the basics of sewing with knits and share some helpful tips to make your next project a success. So grab your needles and let’s dive into the world of knitting fabric!

The Basics of Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Sewing with knit fabrics can seem intimidating and daunting for those used to working with only woven materials. However, once you understand the basics, sewing with knits can be just as easy and enjoyable as sewing with wovens. Here are some key things to keep in mind when working with knit fabrics:

– Choose the Right Needle: The first and most important step in sewing with knits is selecting the right needle. You will need a needle specifically designed for knit fabrics, which has a rounded point rather than a sharp point like those used for wovens. This prevents the needle from cutting through the fibers of the knit fabric.
– Use the Right Stitch: When sewing knits, it’s best to use a stretch stitch such as a zigzag or a triple stitch. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread.
– Use the Right Thread: It’s important to use a good quality thread when working with knit fabrics, as they are more prone to stretching and breaking than wovens. Look for polyester or nylon threads labeled specifically for stretch fabrics.
– Pre-treat Your Fabric: As with any other fabric, it’s important to pre-wash your knit fabric before cutting and sewing. This removes any shrinkage that may occur and allows you to accurately gauge how much your fabric will stretch.
– Avoid Pins: Pins can leave permanent holes in knit fabrics, so it’s best to avoid using them when possible. Instead, use clips or weights to hold your fabric in place while sewing.
– Cut With Care: When cutting out your pattern pieces, it’s best to use sharp scissors rather than a rotary cutter. Make sure to cut slowly and carefully, as knit fabrics can slip and slide easily.
– Use Stabilizers: If you’re working with particularly lightweight or slippery knits, using stabilizers such as tissue paper or spray starch can help prevent stretching and shifting while sewing.
– Experiment with Stitches: There are different types of stretch stitches that you can experiment with, such as the lightning bolt stitch or triple stretch stitch. These can add visual interest to your project and can also provide extra strength to seams that may be prone to stretching.
– Test on Scraps: Whenever working with a new type of knit fabric, it’s always a good idea to test out your stitches and techniques on scraps before diving into your project. This will allow you to make any necessary adjustments before starting on your final piece.

Choosing the Right Fabric for Your Project

When it comes to sewing with knits, the type of fabric you choose is just as important as the techniques you use. Knit fabrics come in a variety of weights, stretchiness, and fibers, so it’s important to understand how each type behaves in order to achieve the best results.

– Weight: Knit fabrics are generally categorized by weight, which refers to how much they weigh per square yard. The most common weights for knits are lightweight (around 4 oz per square yard), medium weight (around 6-8 oz per square yard), and heavy weight (over 10 oz per square yard). The weight of your fabric will affect its drape and opacity, so it’s important to choose the right weight for your intended project.
– Stretchiness: Knit fabrics are also categorized by their level of stretchiness, which can range from minimal (less than 20% stretch) to high (50% or more stretch). The amount of stretch your fabric has will determine how much ease you should allow when cutting out your pattern pieces.
– Fibers: Knit fabrics can be made from a variety of fibers such as cotton, rayon, polyester, wool, and more. Each fiber has different properties that affect how the fabric behaves, such as breathability, drapability, and durability. It’s important to consider the end use of your project when choosing the fiber of your knit fabric.
– Blend vs. 100%: Knit fabrics can also be made from a blend of fibers (such as cotton and polyester) or 100% of a single fiber. Blended knit fabrics tend to have better stretch recovery and durability, while 100% natural fibers like cotton and wool have more breathability.
– Woven vs. Knit Prints: When selecting a patterned knit fabric, it’s important to pay attention to whether the print is woven or knit. Woven prints are printed on top of the finished fabric and can crack or peel when stretched, while knit prints are dyed into the yarn before being knitted and will maintain their color and print even when stretched.
– Always Test: As with any new project, it’s always a good idea to test out your chosen fabric before starting on your final piece. This will allow you to make any necessary adjustments in terms of stretch, weight, and drape.

Tips for Sewing Common Types of Knit Fabrics

Now that you’ve mastered the basics of sewing with knits and

Knit fabrics have become a staple in the sewing world, thanks to their comfort and versatility. However, many sewists shy away from working with knits due to their stretchy nature and potential difficulty in handling. But fear not, because with the right techniques and tools at your disposal, sewing with knit fabrics can be a breeze!

In this comprehensive guide, we will walk you through everything you need to know about sewing with knit fabrics. From selecting the right fabric to choosing the correct needles and stitches, we have got you covered. So grab your sewing machine and let’s dive into the world of knit fabrics!

Understanding Knit Fabrics

Before we get into the specifics of sewing with knits, it is crucial to understand what makes these fabrics unique. Unlike woven fabrics that are made with straight threads interlaced at right angles, knit fabrics are created by interlocking loops of yarn.

This interlocking structure gives knit fabrics their signature stretchiness and makes them comfortable to wear. However, it also means that they require different handling compared to woven fabrics when it comes to cutting and sewing.

There are various types of knit fabrics available, such as jersey, rib knits, interlocks, and more. Each type comes with its own characteristics and properties, so it is essential to choose the right one for your project.

Selecting the Right Fabric

When it comes to choosing a knit fabric for your project, there are a few things you need to keep in mind. First and foremost is the fabric’s fiber content. Knit fabrics can be made from natural fibers such as cotton or silk or synthetic fibers like polyester or nylon.

Natural fibers offer breathability and comfort but may not have as much stretch as synthetics. On the other hand, synthetic fibers provide excellent stretch but can sometimes feel less comfortable against the skin.

If you are new to sewing with knits, it is best to start with a cotton jersey fabric. It is easy to work with and forgiving if you make any mistakes. As you gain more experience, you can experiment with different types of knit fabrics.

Preparing the Fabric

Before you start sewing, it is crucial to prepare your fabric properly. Knit fabrics tend to curl at the edges, making it difficult to cut and sew accurately. To prevent this, you can use spray starch or a stabilizer before cutting.

You should also pre-wash your fabric before starting any project. This will help remove any excess dyes and chemicals and prevent shrinkage once the final garment is washed. It is advisable to pre-wash your fabric the same way you will wash your finished garment.

Choosing the Right Needles

Using the correct needle for knit fabrics is crucial for a successful sewing project. Regular sewing machine needles have sharp points that can damage knit fabrics by creating holes or runs in the fabric.

To avoid this, opt for ballpoint needles when working with knits. These have rounded tips that help them slip between the fabric’s loops without damaging them.

Another option is stretch needles that are designed specifically for stretchy fabrics like knits. They have a deeper groove on their shaft, allowing them to stretch out and recover as they sew through the fabric.

Stitches and Techniques

When stitching knit fabrics, it is essential to choose the right stitch that will allow the fabric to stretch without breaking. The two most commonly used stitches for knits are the zigzag stitch and the straight stretch stitch.

The zigzag stitch provides excellent stretch and prevents stitches from popping when you wear your garment. On the other hand, the straight stretch stitch creates a line of straight stitches on one side of the fabric while allowing it to stretch on the other.

To prevent your fabric from puckering while stitching, it is important to use a walking foot or a ballpoint sewing machine foot. These specialized feet help move the fabric through the machine evenly and prevent it from getting stuck or stretching out of shape.

Constructing Your Garment

Once you have your fabric prepared and your stitches and techniques in place, it is time to start constructing your garment. When sewing pieces of knit fabric together, it is essential to match the fabric’s stretch direction.

Pay attention to which direction the fabric stretches and make sure that all pieces are cut in the same direction. This will ensure that your garment hangs properly and doesn’t feel too tight or too loose.

Using pins can be tricky with knit fabrics as they can create holes or pull at the fabric. Instead, try using clips or tissue paper between the layers of fabric to hold them in place.

Finishing Touches

To give your knit garment a professional look, there are a few finishing techniques you can use. Hemming with a twin needle provides a neat finish while allowing the fabric to stretch at the hemline. You can also use clear elastic or fusible tricot interfacing on necklines for added stability.

If you want

Q: What is the difference between sewing with knit fabrics and woven fabrics?
A: The main difference is the stretchiness of knit fabrics, which requires different techniques and tools compared to sewing with woven fabrics.

Q: Do I need special needles for sewing with knit fabrics?
A: Yes, you will need to use ballpoint or stretch needles when sewing with knit fabrics. These have rounded tips that can easily penetrate the fabric without causing runs or tears.

Q: How do I prevent my knit fabric from bunching or stretching while sewing?
A: You can place tissue paper or a stabilizer underneath the fabric to prevent it from bunching up or stretching during sewing. You can also use a walking foot to evenly feed the fabric through the machine.

Q: Can I use straight pins when sewing with knits?
A: While it is possible to use straight pins, it is recommended to use ballpoint pins specifically designed for knit fabrics. These pins have a rounded tip that will not snag or damage the fabric.

Q: How do I finish raw edges on knit garments?
A: A serger is an ideal tool for finishing raw edges on knit garments. Alternatively, you can use a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to prevent fraying.

Q: How do I choose the right stitch for sewing with knits?
A: The best stitch for knitting is either a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch. These stitches allow for movement and stretch in the fabric without breaking. It is important to test different stitches on scrap pieces of fabric before starting your project.

In conclusion, sewing with knit fabrics may seem challenging at first, but with the right techniques and tools, it can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience. Remember to always choose the correct needle and thread, use proper stitching techniques such as using a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch, and prepping the fabric before sewing. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different types of knit fabrics and patterns to expand your skills. And most importantly, have patience and take your time to properly handle the fabric. By following these guidelines, you can create beautiful and comfortable garments that are perfect for everyday wear or special occasions.

Furthermore, understanding the properties of different types of knit fabrics is crucial in achieving successful sewing projects. Knowing the stretch percentage, weight, and drape of your chosen fabric can help you determine which stitches and techniques will work best for that specific material. Additionally, learning how to work with knits can also open up new possibilities for customizing existing patterns or creating your own designs.

Sewing with knit fabrics also offers practical benefits such as creating more comfortable and flattering garments that move with your body. This is especially important in today’s fashion landscape where comfort is becoming just as important as style. Furthermore, by making your own knit pieces, you have control over the fit and can

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.

Mastering the Art of Sewing with Knit Fabrics: A Beginner’s Guide