Master the Art of Sizing Up Sewing Patterns with These Simple Steps

Have you ever purchased a sewing pattern and excitedly started working on it, only to realize it doesn’t fit you properly? Or perhaps you’ve shied away from using sewing patterns altogether because of the fear of getting the sizing wrong. If this sounds familiar, don’t worry, you’re not alone. Choosing the right size for a sewing pattern can be tricky and overwhelming, but with the right techniques, it doesn’t have to be. In this article, we will guide you through the process of sizing up a sewing pattern so that your finished garment fits perfectly every time. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewist, these tips will help you conquer any fit issues and achieve a flawless fit in no time. So let’s dive in and learn how to size up a sewing pattern like a pro!

What is a Sewing Pattern?

A sewing pattern is a template used to create a piece of clothing or accessory. It provides detailed instructions on how to cut and assemble fabric pieces in order to create the desired garment. These patterns come in a range of styles and sizes, catering to different body types and sewing skill levels.

There are two main types of sewing patterns: commercial patterns and self-drafted patterns. Commercial patterns are purchased from pattern companies, such as Simplicity or Butterick, while self-drafted patterns are created by the individual sewer. Both types have their own advantages and may be used depending on personal preference and project needs.

Commercial patterns often come with detailed instructions, helpful tips, and illustrations to guide the sewer through each step of the process. They are suitable for beginners as well as experienced sewers who wish to follow a predetermined design. On the other hand, self-drafted patterns allow for more customization and creativity, but require more skill in pattern making.

Why is Sizing Important?

Correct sizing is crucial when it comes to sewing a garment that fits well and looks flattering. A poorly sized garment can cause discomfort, restrict movement, and lead to disappointment with the final product.

It’s important to note that standard sizes in clothing vary greatly between different brands and countries. This means that trusting your usual size may not be accurate when working with different sewing pattern brands or styles. It’s always best to refer to the measurements provided on the pattern itself rather than relying on standard sizes.

Additionally, taking accurate body measurements is essential when choosing a size for your sewing pattern. This includes bust, waist, hip, and body length measurements. Many commercial patterns provide finished garment measurements as well which can be compared to your own body measurements for better accuracy.

Measuring Yourself for Pattern Sizing

To ensure proper sizing when using a sewing pattern, it’s important to measure yourself accurately. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to take the necessary measurements:

1. Bust: With your arms down at your sides, measure around the fullest part of your bust.

2. Waist: Measure around the smallest part of your natural waistline.

3. Hips: Stand with your feet together and measure around the fullest part of your hips.

4. Body Length: This measurement starts from the top of your shoulder, down through your crotch, and back up to the starting point at your shoulder.

Remember to stand tall and breathe normally while taking these measurements. It’s also helpful to have someone assist you or use a full-length mirror for more accurate results.

Interpreting Sewing Pattern Measurements

Once you have taken all necessary measurements, it’s important to understand how they correspond to the pattern sizes provided on the sewing pattern itself.

Commercial patterns typically include multiple sizes within one pattern, often ranging from small to extra-large or even beyond. These sizes are indicated by numbers (ex: 8, 10, 12) or letters (ex: S, M, L). The key is finding which size range best fits your own measurements.

Some patterns also include different cup sizes for bust measurements (ex: A-B cup or C-D cup). It’s best to choose the cup size that most closely matches your own bust measurement for a better fit in that area.

Adjusting Pattern Sizes

In some cases, it may be necessary to adjust the size of a sewing pattern in order to achieve a perfect fit. This can be done in several ways:

1. Grading: Grading involves blending between two different sizes in order to create a customized size for your specific body measurements. For example, if you need a larger waist size but a smaller hip size, grading can be used to achieve the perfect fit.

2. Lengthening/Shortening: Some patterns may need to be lengthened or shortened in order to accommodate for body proportions, such as a longer torso or shorter legs.

3. Adding/Removing Ease: Ease refers to the amount of extra room in a garment. Adding more ease can create a looser, more relaxed fit while removing ease can create a more fitted look. Some patterns may need adjustment in this area depending on personal preference and the style of the garment.

It’s important to make these adjustments carefully, referencing the pattern instructions and making mock-ups (also known as muslins) first before cutting into your final fabric.

Sizing up a sewing pattern requires attention to detail and accurate measurements. It’s important to remember that standard sizes in clothing may not match up with pattern sizes, so measuring yourself and referring to the provided measurements on the pattern is crucial for achieving a well-fitting garment.

If adjustments are needed, it’s best to make them carefully and possibly make mock-ups first before cutting into your final fabric. With proper sizing techniques, you can create beautiful garments that not only fit well but also make you feel confident and comfortable.

Understanding Sewing Patterns

Sewing patterns are an essential tool for anyone interested in sewing their own clothes or creating projects from scratch. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced sewist, understanding sewing patterns is crucial to achieve the desired outcome. A sewing pattern is a set of printed pieces that guide you through the process of cutting, pinning, and assembling fabric to make a garment or project. They come in various sizes and styles, depending on the type of project you are working on. In this article, we will focus on how to size up a sewing pattern and make it work for your body type.

Step 1: Measurements

Before embarking on sizing up a sewing pattern, it is crucial to have accurate measurements of your body. The key areas to measure are bust/chest, waist, hips, and height. You can achieve this by using a measuring tape or seeking professional help. Ensure that the measuring tape is snug but not too tight when taking your measurements. Accurate measurements will ensure that your finished garment fits perfectly.

Step 2: Choosing the Right Pattern Size

Once you have your measurements, the next step is choosing the correct size of the pattern you want to use. Most sewing patterns come in multiple sizes ranging from small to extra-large. Check the measurement chart on the back of the pattern envelope and compare it with your own measurements. Choose the size that is closest to your bust/chest measurement as this area tends to be more challenging to alter.

Step 3: Adjusting for Height

If you fall under the petite or tall category, adjusting for height may be necessary when sizing up a pattern. This step involves adding or subtracting inches from specific areas of the pattern pieces to fit your desired height accurately. For instance, if you are petite, consider shortening the length of the body, sleeves or hemline to achieve a proportional look.

Step 4: Adjusting for Width

To size up a sewing pattern, you will need to increase the width of specific pattern pieces to accommodate your measurements. This step is crucial for achieving a garment that fits comfortably and flatters your body shape. Start by tracing the original pattern onto a separate piece of paper and then adding inches to specific areas such as the bust, waist, and hips. You can do this by using a ruler to draw new lines or simply cutting and spreading the pattern pieces apart by the desired amount.

Tips for Adjusting for Width:

Use curved rulers to smoothly blend in your added inches with the original pattern lines.
Make sure to add equal inches on each side of a pattern piece to maintain symmetry.
Try on your muslin (a mock-up garment made from cheap fabric) at each stage and make any necessary adjustments before cutting into your final fabric.

Step 5: Adding Darts

Darts are folds in fabric that create shape or remove excess fullness from an area of a garment. They are usually found in areas such as bust, waist, and hips. When sizing up a sewing pattern, you may need to adjust or add darts to achieve the desired fit. For example, if you have a larger bust but narrow waist, you will need to add darts at the bustline and take in at the waistline.

Step 6: Grading Between Sizes

It is common for people to fall under different sizes when taking their measurements. In such cases, you may need to grade between sizes when sizing up a sewing pattern. Grading involves blending two adjacent sizes to achieve a perfect fit. For instance, if your measurements fall under a size 10 for the bust and a size 12 for the waist, you will need to blend the two sizes at the seams to achieve a seamless fit.

Final Thoughts

Sizing up a sewing pattern may seem like a daunting task, but with the right techniques, it can be a seamless process. Remember to take accurate measurements, choose the correct size, and make adjustments as needed. Don’t get discouraged if your first attempt is not perfect; practice makes perfect! With time, you will become more comfortable and confident in altering sewing patterns to perfectly fit your body. So go ahead and tackle that sewing pattern with confidence!

1) What do the size numbers on a sewing pattern refer to?
The size numbers on a sewing pattern refer to your body measurements, not your ready-to-wear clothing sizes. Be sure to accurately measure yourself before selecting a pattern size.

2) How do I determine the right pattern size for my body?
Take your measurements and compare them to the size chart provided on the pattern envelope. Choose the closest size based on your body measurements, and make any necessary adjustments during the fitting process.

3) Is it okay to use different sizes for different parts of my body?
Yes, it is common for people to have different proportions in their bodies. You can choose a specific pattern size for your bust, waist, and hips, and then blend between sizes when cutting out your fabric.

4) What if my measurements put me in between two different sizes?
In this case, you can either adjust the larger size down or make alterations to the smaller size. It will depend on which area of your body is closer to one of the sizes on the chart.

5) Should I always use just one pattern size?
It is recommended to use one consistent pattern during a project rather than blending multiple sizes within one garment. This allows for better fit and less confusion during assembly.

6) What if I need to make significant adjustments to the pattern’s measurements?
If you find that you need to make major modifications to the pattern’s sizing, it may be easier to start with a basic block or sloper for your body first. This will save time and effort in adjusting an existing pattern.

In conclusion, sizing up a sewing pattern is a crucial step in successfully creating a garment that not only fits, but also flatters the body. It requires careful evaluation and understanding of one’s measurements, as well as the key points of the pattern such as seam allowances and ease.

By following the steps outlined in this guide, individuals can confidently size up any sewing pattern and achieve a personalized fit. Taking accurate measurements, understanding sizing conventions, and utilizing fitting techniques like mock-ups or muslins are all essential factors in this process.

It is important to also remember that every body is unique and may require adjustments to be made even after sizing up a pattern. This should not be seen as a hindrance or failure, but rather an opportunity to customize the garment to one’s own body shape.

Ultimately, mastering how to size up a sewing pattern allows for greater creative freedom and ensures that the final garment will have both comfort and style. With practice and patience, individuals can develop their own techniques and strategies for sizing up patterns and create one-of-a-kind pieces with confidence. So whether you are an experienced seamstress or just starting out in your sewing journey, understanding how to correctly size up a sewing pattern is an invaluable skill that will greatly enhance your sewing skills.

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.