Mastering the Art of Coat Making: A Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing a Perfect Collar

Winter is quickly approaching, and that means it’s time to pull out our cozy coats to keep us warm during the chilly months. But have you ever found yourself admiring a beautifully tailored coat and wishing you could make one yourself? Well, with the right skills and techniques, you can! One of the most essential parts of a coat is its collar, as it not only adds to the overall design but also keeps our necks protected from the cold. In this article, we will guide you through the steps of sewing a coat collar, helping you elevate your sewing skills and create a stunning winter staple. So let’s dive in and learn how to sew a coat collar like a pro!

Understanding the Importance of Coat Collars

When it comes to apparel, every little detail counts. This is especially true for coats, as they play an important role in keeping us warm and stylish during the colder months. While most people may not pay much attention to it, the coat collar is actually a crucial component of a coat’s overall design. It serves not only as a style statement, but also has functional purposes such as protecting the neck from harsh weather conditions and providing structure to the garment.

One of the main functions of a coat collar is to frame and accentuate the face. A well-designed collar can draw attention up towards the wearer’s face and can even make certain facial features stand out more. For example, a wide lapel or shawl collar can balance out a strong jawline while a narrow collar can elongate the neck and give the illusion of a slimmer face. On top of that, different types of collars can also convey different styles or moods. A sharp pointed collar on a coat exudes sophistication while a rounded Peter Pan collar gives off a more playful vibe.

Another important purpose of a coat collar is providing protection to the neck area. Depending on the weather conditions, collars can be designed in various ways to protect against wind, snow, rain, or extreme cold. For instance, coats with high stand collars are ideal for shielding the neck from chilly winds while those with thick roll-up collars provide extra warmth for colder temperatures.

In addition to that, collars also serve as structural support for coats. A well-tailored coat should have its collar standing upright at all times as it adds structure and provides balance to the rest of the garment. With that being said, it is essential for seamstresses to have solid techniques for sewing coat collars in order for them to remain stable throughout wear.

Choosing the Right Fabric for Coat Collars

When it comes to sewing a coat collar, choosing the right fabric is crucial. The fabric you choose will determine not only the appearance but also the functionality of your coat collar. Different types of fabrics can make a huge difference in how your collar behaves, drapes, and holds its shape.

For a more formal and structured look, opt for stiff fabrics such as wool, tweed, or corduroy. These fabrics hold their shape well and are great for creating crisp collars with well-defined edges. They also have enough weight to keep the collar standing upright. On the other hand, if you prefer a more relaxed and casual style, consider using softer fabrics like denim, linen or cotton twill. These fabrics drape well and can create a more laid-back look without sacrificing functionality.

It’s important to pay attention to the weight of your chosen fabric as well. A lighter weight fabric may not provide enough structure for a standing collar while a heavier weight fabric may be too stiff for a shawl collar to drape nicely.

Durability is another factor that should be considered when selecting fabric for coat collars. Since collars are exposed to constant friction from neck movements, it is important to use sturdy and durable materials to prevent them from wearing out easily.

Preparing Your Fabric and Pattern

Before starting on sewing your coat collar, it’s important to properly prepare your fabric and pattern pieces. Be sure to pre-wash your fabric according to its care instructions so that it doesn’t shrink after sewing. This is especially important for natural fibers like wool which tend to shrink when washed.

Once your fabric has been prepped and dried accordingly, iron out any wrinkles so that you have a smooth surface to work on. Remember that precision is key when sewing coat collars so make sure that everything is lined up properly before cutting out your pattern pieces.

Before cutting out your collar pattern pieces, double-check the grainline and make sure that it is parallel to the selvage edge. This is important as any deviation from the grainline can cause your collar to appear crooked or distorted. and attention to detail during this stage will ensure that your final product looks professional and polished.

Sewing Techniques for Different Types of Coat Collars

There are countless types of coat collars, each requiring different sewing techniques. Some common styles include notched collars, shawl collars, stand collars, and mandarin collars. Each type poses its own challenges when it comes to sewing, therefore it is essential to have a solid understanding of the techniques involved in order to achieve a neat and well-constructed collar.

Notched Collar: This traditional style features a notch at the base of the collar where it meets the lapel. For this collar, start by sewing the undercollar to the top collar right sides together. Then sew this combination onto your neckline before turning right side out and pressing.

Shawl Collar: This collar is shaped like a continuous curve without any sharp corners or edges. To achieve a clean finish for this type of collar, edge stitch along its outer edge

Choosing the Right Collar Style for Your Coat

Collars are a crucial component of any coat – they provide structure and shape, and can add a touch of elegance or edge to the overall look. When it comes to sewing your own coat, selecting the right collar style is essential. Here are some key factors to consider when choosing the perfect collar for your coat:

Fabric

The type of fabric you choose for your coat will have a significant impact on the style of collar that will work best. Heavier fabrics such as wool, tweed, or denim are great for structured collars, while lighter fabrics like cotton or silk are better suited for softer, more flowy collars. Keep in mind that certain fabrics may also require additional reinforcement or interfacing to ensure the collar maintains its shape.

Body Type

Another important consideration when choosing a collar style is your body type. Certain collars can enhance or detract from different body shapes. For example, if you have a long neck, a high-standing collar may make it look even longer, while a shawl collar can balance out broad shoulders. A spread collar is flattering for most body types and can give the illusion of a longer torso.

Occasion

The occasion you will be wearing your coat for should also influence your choice of collar style. If you’re looking for a versatile everyday coat, opt for a classic notched lapel or simple stand-up collar. For more formal events, consider a mandarin or tuxedo-style shawl collar to add some sophistication to your look.

Measuring and Cutting Your Collar Pieces

Now that you’ve selected the perfect collar style for your coat, it’s time to get measuring and cutting! Properly measuring and cutting your fabric pieces is key to achieving a well-fitting and professional-looking collar. Here’s how to do it:

Measurements

Start by taking accurate measurements of your neck, as well as the neckline of your coat. Add an additional 1/2 inch to your neck measurement for ease and seam allowance. For the neckline of your coat, measure from where the collar will be attached to the shoulder seam and add 1 inch for seam allowance.

Cutting Your Collar Pieces

Using a pattern or creating your own, transfer your measurements onto your fabric and cut out two identical pieces for the top and bottom parts of your collar. If you’re using a thicker fabric, consider cutting out an additional layer using interfacing for extra reinforcement.

Assembling Your Collar

Now that you have all your pieces cut out, it’s time to assemble them together. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Sewing the Top and Bottom Pieces Together

Place both collar pieces right sides together, aligning the edges, and pinning them in place. Sew around all edges, leaving a small opening at one end for turning later.

2. Trim Seam Allowances

Trim any excess fabric from the seam allowances while being careful not to cut through any stitches. This will reduce bulkiness and create a cleaner finish once turned right side out.

3. Turn Right Side Out

Using the opening left in step 2, turn the collar right side out. Use a blunt object such as a chopstick or knitting needle to push out any corners or curves.

4. Pressing

Give your collar a good press with an iron on low heat to smooth out any wrinkles or creases.

Attaching Your Collar to Your Coat

1. Prepare the Collar

With the right side of your coat facing you, pin the collar to the neckline, starting at the center back and working your way around.

2. Sewing the Collar to the Coat

Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, sew around the entire neckline, attaching the collar to the coat. As you sew, carefully match any notches or markings on both pieces to ensure a clean and even finish.

3. Pressing

Once sewn, give your collar another press with an iron to set the seam and create a crisp edge.

Finishing Touches

To complete your coat collar, you may want to add some finishing touches such as topstitching or decorative buttons. These details are entirely up to you and can add a unique touch to your coat.

In conclusion, sewing a coat collar may seem daunting but with proper planning and execution, it can elevate your coat from average to expertly tailored. Remember to consider fabric type, body type, and occasion when selecting a collar style and don’t skimp on precise measurements and cutting techniques. With these tips in mind, you’ll be able to

Q: What supplies do I need to sew a coat collar?
A: To sew a coat collar, you will need fabric, interfacing, a sewing machine or needle and thread, scissors, pins, and iron.

Q: How do I measure and cut the fabric for a coat collar?
A: Measure the neckline of the coat and add an additional 2-3 inches for seam allowance. Transfer these measurements onto the fabric and cut out two pieces for the outer and inner layer of the collar.

Q: What is interfacing and why is it necessary for sewing a coat collar?
A: Interfacing is a stiff fabric that is used to give structure to collars and other areas of clothing. It helps to maintain the shape of the collar and prevents it from sagging or drooping.

Q: What type of stitch should I use when sewing a coat collar?
A: It is recommended to use a straight stitch when sewing a coat collar, as this will provide strength and stability to the seam. You may also want to reinforce the stitches by backstitching at the beginning and end of each seam.

Q: How can I ensure that my coat collar lays flat after sewing it?
A: To prevent your coat collar from bunching up or standing away from the rest of the garment, make sure that you evenly stitch along both sides of the collar. Use pins or basting stitches to hold everything in place before permanently stitching it together.

Q: Can I add additional embellishments or details to my coat collar?
A: Yes, you can add additional elements such as buttons or trimmings to your coat collar if desired. Just make sure they are securely attached during the sewing process so they do not come loose in the future.

In conclusion, learning how to sew a coat collar is a valuable skill for any aspiring sewer or fashion enthusiast. It requires attention to detail, patience, and practice, but the end result is a beautifully finished garment that can elevate any outfit. Throughout this guide, we have covered key steps and techniques necessary for sewing a coat collar, such as measuring and drafting the pattern, assembling the pieces correctly, and pressing for a professional look.

Additionally, we have discussed common challenges that may arise while sewing a coat collar, such as dealing with bulky fabrics and achieving accurate stitch lines. We have also emphasized the importance of choosing the right fabric and interfacing for the collar to ensure its stability and functionality.

By following these instructions and tips, one can successfully sew a coat collar that fits well, looks polished, and adds an element of sophistication to any coat style. As with any other sewing project, it is important to take your time and not rush through the process. The more you practice, the better you will become at sewing collars with ease.

Moreover, learning how to sew a coat collar opens up possibilities for personalization and creativity in one’s wardrobe. From classic notched collars to shawl collars or even unique stand-up collars – the options are endless. With

Author Profile

Jill Nammar

My name is Jill but everyone calls me Jilly. I design original cross stitch patterns inspired by vintage French and flowers. Roses are my muse.
I hope you have a cozy time stitching my patterns. Put the kettle on, relax and create a heartwarming piece of hand-embroidered art. Personalize your home and turn up the soulful charm with soulful stitchery.

My goal is to provide you with pretty patterns that promote peaceful stitching. My wish is for you to discover the gentle beauty of hand-embroidery.My patterns have been featured around the web and in Homespun Magazine and Boston Magazine. I find my bliss in cross stitch.

From 2024, I have embarked on a new venture—writing an informative blog on the “Embroidery and Cross-Stitch” niche. This blog is an extension of my passion, where I share detailed posts and respond to queries related to embroidery and cross-stitching.

The blog covers a wide range of topics from beginner tips, pattern creation, historical insights, and the therapeutic benefits of stitching. My goal is to build a community where enthusiasts can learn, share, and grow in their embroidery skills, ensuring everyone can find their own bliss in cross-stitch just as I did.

Thank you to all my customers and readers who have supported Sew French. Your kind emails, photos of completed patterns, and continual encouragement fuel my dedication to this beautiful craft. Join me in stitching a world of beauty and peace, one pattern at a time.